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tHEcONCH

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  1. tHEcONCH

    AQUASCAPING

    AQUASCAPING Written by: tHEcONCH INTRODUCTION Aquascaping is the process of arranging dead or live coral rock and / or sand into a functional and aesthetically pleasing formation. It is as much art as science, but there are certain basic principles that will help you avoid some problems and create a suitable environment for your fish and corals. Some fish need the sense of security offered by rock formations or even ‘bolt holes’ where they will retreat when startled, and some corals need more light than others, so aquascaping a tank well can create a range of conditions better fitting their requirements. Aquascaped live rock also contributes to the filtration of toxins from you tank by providing a suitable environment for beneficial bacteria to grow, and it also provides a breeding ground for tiny creatures like ‘pods’ that are essential in keeping some fishes. ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS Regardless of what look you like, be it an open sandy lagoon, or high towers and faces, there are a few basic principles that will help create good aquascaping. Compatibility with livestock – first and foremost your aquascaping should be appropriate for the kinds of fish and corals you intend to keep. Some fish need a sandy flat bottom to survive; others need plenty of mid-water swimming space. Some corals require fast currents and strong light; others require calmer waters. Research the sorts of fish and corals you want to eventually keep and bear their requirements in mind when designing your aquascape. Water flow – aquascaping combined with the number and position of pumps greatly affects total and localised rates of flow in your tank. Whatever you do, don’t stack large amounts of rock into dense piles as it will create toxic ‘dead spots’ with little or no flow. Always try to allow water to flow freely around and through rock formations so that detritus is carried away rather than getting trapped. Cleaning – remember that you are going to have to clean the glass around you rock formations so you should always leave at least a 3 inch / 75mm boundary around the inside perimeter of your tank that is free of rock. The exception may be the back wall, but only if you provide sufficient flow to blow all detritus out from behind the rock. Stability – your rock formations must be stable. Falling rock can cause a lot of damage to whatever it hits, or even shatter the tank. If you choose to build high towers reinforce them with plastic rods or zip-tie pieces of rock together. Build the tower ‘dry’ outside your tank and if it isn’t self-supporting and stable, reinforce it before you put it in your tank. BASIC DESIGNS The possibilities for you design or layout is virtually endless and really turns on what you like the look of, subject to the basics outlined above, however three classic designs offer a lot of benefits and are a good starting point for your particular designs, ‘The Island’ – Basically a central conical formation of rock near the centre of your tank. ‘The Island’ offers plenty of swimming room, makes cleaning glass easy, offers a range of heights for placing corals nearer or further from light, and is inherently stable. There are some disadvantages, however – its broad base has the potential to create a dead zone, and frankly, it can be a little boring. Its best suited to smaller squarer tanks with plenty of circulation. ‘Twin Islands’ – Probably the most popular choice, it is similar to the above, but comprised of two cones or towers with a prominent gap or chasm between them. Often one island is much larger than the other. The advantages are better flow with a reduced chance of creating a dead spot, better cover for fish with a nervous disposition, and it is a better shape for typical rectangular tanks. The disadvantage is that the ‘Twin Island’ design can overfill your tank and reduce the amount of free swimming space some fish need. ‘The Lagoon’ – Basically an open bottom surrounded by a semi-circle or rock. Well suited to keeping fish that require a sandy-bottomed tank, ‘The Lagoon’ requires careful construction so as to be stable. Remember that it will take at least a month, probably longer, for your tank to cycle up (see the separate article) so you will have plenty of time to experiment and find a look that you like. For inspiration search this site and the internet for images of marine tanks - there are some awesome designs out there. Whatever look you favour make sure it’s suitable for the fish and corals you want to keep, and then just experiment with different arrangements until you are happy with the basic look. Don’t forget to allow room for corals to grow. Have fun!
  2. tHEcONCH

    SKIMMERS

    SKIMMERS Written by: tHEcONCH INTRODUCTION Skimmers are an essential piece of marine aquarium equipment, and although there are other methods of removing waste from a marine system, they are by far the best method for home tanks. Skimmers work by injecting millions of tiny air bubbles into a chamber as tank water passes through it. As the bubbles rise through the water they attract proteins and other waste and lift it out of the water into a collection chamber. By completely removing waste in its early stages of decomposition the skimmer lessens the load on the beneficial bacteria in the tank that break down the remaining waste. TYPES OF SKIMMER Air-driven skimmers – Air-driven skimmers, or ‘Berlin Method’ skimmers, are simple tall canisters with air pump feeding an air ‘stone’ at the base. The bubbles rise up, collect waste, and collect in a collection cup at the top of the canister. They are cheap and functional so long as they are tall and the wooden air ‘stones’ required to get small enough bubbles are replaced every few weeks. They are prone to blockage, are bulky, and seldom work well by comparison to pump-driven skimmers. Pump-driven skimmers – Pump-driven skimmers pump tank water past an air venturi (intake) which creates turbulence and tiny bubbles in the water. More advanced models use ‘needle wheels’ to create even more turbulence and cause gases dissolved in the water to form into bubbles. The bubble filled water is then pushed through a chamber where, loaded with waste, it bubbles into a collection cup. Because they pump water rather than rely on just the buoyancy of the air bubbles to work, they are far more efficient and compact, and can clean water both faster and more thoroughly. Pump driven skimmers come in three main configurations: ‘Hang On’ skimmer – A kind of pump-driven skimmer designed to clip on to the back of an existing aquarium, pulling water up and out of the tank, through the skimmer, and then return the water to the tank. Submersible skimmer – A kind of skimmer designed to be immersed in water (usually in a separate sump) Stand-alone skimmer – The most common design of skimmer. As they need not be installed near the aquarium itself, these skimmers can be very large and powerful because they are not constrained by limited space. They are sometimes located in a separate room connected by household plumbing, and often require a separate ‘feed’ or ‘return’ pump(s) to get water to and from the tank. BUYING A SKIMMER A good skimmer is one that produces a lot of very fine bubbles and keeps them swirling about in the tank water for as long as possible where they can attract waste before bubbling to the top. All else being equal, a bigger skimmer is a better skimmer. There is no such thing as ‘over-skimming’. Some newer model skimmers contain ‘bubble plates’ and other gadgets designed to increase the efficiency of the skimmer, but the basic principles hold for all skimmers. The kind of skimmer you buy should depend upon factors like how big your tank is and what you want to keep in it and the amount of space you have available in your cabinet, but in general you want the biggest and best quality skimmer you can afford. There is little use in buying a cheap skimmer ‘to get started’ – it really is a waste of money that should go towards getting the right skimmer for your intended set-up. I recommend that you seek plenty of advice from other reefkeepers before purchasing a skimmer - it is such a critical component that you must get the right tool for the job.
  3. I'll be happy to make some available when I break my tank down shortly.
  4. Hope it is OK to post this link - Mods can remove it if its not: craig, there is a host of useful start-up info here: http://www.reefkeepers.co.nz/forum/foru ... m.php?f=44 You'll need to register to view it.
  5. T5 are more powerful than T8 - you'll need at least T5 to keep any corals, T8 are useless. If you want to keep hard / SPS, then you'll need a lot of T5, or metal halide.
  6. Not too well - the RSM smashed but I was able to save Emo. The other tank is pretty knocked about, but held some water so isn't a total loss. Unfortunately then, after nearly four years here the story ends of tHEcONCH's Red Sea Max.
  7. If you are just wanting to hatch brine shrimp then its probably easier to just use plain freshwater and add a couple of teaspoons of rock salt from your cupboard -the salinity really isn't that critical, but vigourous aeration (bubbles) are. Otherwise you could collect sea water and run it through a cotton handkerchief to remove any solids. Reef tanks are a very different proposition - you need to be much more careful where and how you collect natural sea water, and you really need to use a proper artificial sea salt if you intend to mix your own.
  8. tHEcONCH

    My Nano

    Because glass is a rubbish insulator, one of the easiest ways to cool the tank is to simply get air movement over the whole thing - I have a single large fan in the corner of my fishroom that just blows air about over the tanks and out the door into the hallway - it has proved far more effective than little fans in the hoods - the only issue with a nano is that you'll have to keep an eye on the water level and salinity due to evaporation.
  9. In other words they maintained the system manually rather than relying on equipment. Good on them
  10. Go make Bob at Redwood an offer on that RSM he's had there for two years
  11. You aren't scared of a creature that weighs a couple of grams, are you?
  12. It is a male Dolomedes spider - absolutely harmless native. The females are considerably plumper. Just carry it gently outside and put it under some leaves. If you piss about with it too long it will die of stress.
  13. Have you though about keeping tropical marines? I could give you some tips on how to do it if you like. :-? 8) :lol: :oops: :evil: :roll: :bounce:
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