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You could use a carbon cartridge to remove the chlorine. Tends to be more expensive than something like Prime. But if you're running a constant flow water change system even that probably isn't needed.

Except for some extreme circumstances there is absolutely no need for an RO filter for water change water with freshwater thanks. Only thing you probably need to add is something to neutralize chlorine, otherwise straight from the tap will be good. Extremely unstable, wastes huge amounts of water that would be better off used for water changes, wastes money. You'd be using stripping all the hardness and minerals out of water that may not be perfect but is probably very usable and then spending money to put them back in so your fish can survive in it. The ONLY time an RO filter would be used regularly for a fishtank is for a marine tank and the majority of that is for topoff water.

Well, if you don't want it, I'll take it.

Haha, Yeah, it'll be fine. Why worry about a little pee in your rocks when fish will be peeing in your water?

Yeah, they're fine. Although, there's supposed to be some ancient maori curse that will kill your family and impregnate your dog or something if you take pumice from Lake Taupo isn't there? My family's fine though so far...

Where ever you feel like. Experiment. I prefer across the tank pointing up at the surface to give extra airation.

Which, to do it right, requires disassembling the tank and spending ages with an orbital sander or similar. Or just get a new piece of glass cut and reassemble. My suggestion would be to upgrade to an even bigger tank and use the scratched tank as a sump.

Hahaha, NO. Glass is one of the least permeable materials around, NOTHING is going to seep through it. You may get a little bit of solvent and overspray getting inside the tank, some extremely tiny amount not worth worrying about. And the solvent will all evaporate and be gone anyway. Paint also usually scrapes off glass pretty easy and cleanly.

Mail me your TDS meter and I'll tell you.

No reason you can't do it now, why wait?

Also for reference, google image search for "Silicone"...Don't do that at work.

Just to be pendantic... Silicone: Silicon:

Yes, that is why you should NEVER top up evaporation with salt water and is pretty much one of the first things listed to not do on any guide to keeping a saltwater tank.

Your allowance must be much bigger than mine was when I was 10. Actually bigger than my allowance is now. :slfg:

Clearly your clients are not following the proper change management process. :rolfl:

It means:

Like Godly says, it's slow. My RO/DI would only produce in the region of 2-3 liters per hour, most on good mains pressure will do more though.

I'd use a hose and siphon them out. A net you're far more likely to squish them.

Yeah, having a variety of critters is one of the biggest advantages of a marine tank. Some people try to killor remove everything they can trying to make the tank as sterile as a FW tank.

Mystus catfish. Uhhhh...mystus gulio I think?

Do waterchanges. You tank hasn't cycled. You have pretty much the worst situation. Tiny tank, uncycled along with (probably)newbie massice overfeeding. Cut the feeding way back, do daily water changes. It should come right in a few weeks. And my preference for euthanasia of tropicals is to put them in a bowl of water in the freezer. The just slow down and stop. Easiwr than finding clove oil or chopping their head off or slamming them on concrete.

Have you made sure the hoses and everything are clean? I've always found cf1200s to have a respectable amount of flow. They're no fx5s but great for tge price. I use a pair on a 440l. Aa for powerheads that tank and inhabitants should be able to handle a reasonable amount of current. A pair of powerheads about 1500l each should do it.

Look like blues. And iirc you were sold them as blues.?

Those all look relatively normal. Except the one floating upside down. For goldfish freakishly deformed inbred mutant is the norm. The upside down floaty one is probably a swim bladder issue

Plug your specs into this calculator: http://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/HeaterChillerSizing.php Should give you an approximate minimum cooling required. For example, my tank(1200X600X600) to keep it at 16-19° would require a minimum of 1350 BTU/H cooling. Here's a spec chart for a "Aqua Euro USA Max Chill Aquarium Chiller" off Marinedepot. So the 1/10th HP would be barely enough that's 74 watts of electricity for 430 watts cooling. That would probably be running relatively constantly and cost about $15/month. These specs are probably at small temperature differentials so you'll probably not get that much cooling. Better to go to the next one up, the 1/4 HP. That uses 186 watts and cools 937 watts. The total cooling is the same which means this one will run less frequently. In addition you'll have large coils radiating the heat so may even get slightly more efficiency. But probably around the same $15/month.