Ira

There's apparently a highland cattle breeder just up the road from us. They look like the need haircuts.

It's an african cichlid. That's all you really need to know, they're all the same fish just with different paintjobs.

A longer coil doesn't make it produce more heat. If it's using 300 watts of electricity it can create no more than 300 watts of heat. Resistive heaters are usually 100% efficient. If you have 2 heaters are are both drawing exactly 300 watts of electricity. One with a 6" heating coil and another with a 12" heating coil they will both still add 300 watts of heat to the water. There will only be one difference between the two which is the surface area to dissipate heat. The 6" heating coil will just be hotter than the 12" heating coil, but there is no difference in efficiency. This may help with having a cooler heater to stop the risk of burning fish...But I've touched heaters that were on, even short 300 watt ones and the glass was cool to the touch. Water is very good at transferring heat. Also a longer heater may end up with a lower internal temperature that limits the thermostat from falsely detecting that it has reached the desired temperature and turning off. In which case you don't really have a 300 watt heater, you have a 150 watt(Or whatever the duty cycle works out to) heater with a 300 watt peak.

Either your other 300 watt heaters weren't actually using 300 watts or your 300 watt jager is using more than 300 watts.

That's the Bronze Wall-limpet fish. Cupric oxidia.

Only jager I can think of that I had fail was due to condensation..Well, it hadn't quite failed... The condensation built up so much inside it that it was pooled in the bottom enough that it was reaching the heating wire which was then boiling the water. But that was something like a 10 year old heater.

That's why you have two filters. Of course, didn't do me much good when one spraybar came off and a clump of java moss that hadn't moved in a year decided to move and clog the other filter intake while I was on vacation.

I just don't use them. There's no need for them if you have a good filter to airate the tank.

My last CF1200 had two black and two blue.

I think it's more than high enough, I'd make it deeper.

Dun dun...........dun dun... dundundundun... DUNDUNDUN ....... ....... :lol:

I'd just find a nice desk lamp that can use an energy saver lamp. They work fine and are cheap.

Is it fake? I couldn't tell when I went, it was so dark and you couldn't get very close so all I could see was a faint greenish glow that I was barely sure was actually there.

Patches on rabbit eyes are a symptom of pyratiiasis. It causes limb loss requiring replacement with pegs or hooks, overindulgence in rum, chasing of wenches and theft then burying of booty. There is no known cure though there has been some anecdotal claims of success through pushing off a long plank extended over a large body of water.

Or sell them and replace them with drums that have not had toxic chemicals in them.

Daphnia or a betta is about it for a small cup like that.

You're topping up with sea water? Your salinity must be extremely high if you're doing that.

It's not that hard to explain. Get a multimeter. Dick Smith has them for like $5. Read multimeter instructions. Set to voltage, poke it around the connector to see the panel is producing any voltage:)

So the one that died was the male? The female was the one constantly running around yelling at him that he was doing everything wrong?

Yeah, looks and sounds like petrified wood.

Well yeah, heating air decreases its relative humidity. Lower relative humidity=more evaporation.

Shut up. :evil: *Goes back to working inside until 7pm* :lol:

Happy binary day!

I'm not convinced that surface area is the limiting factor to bacteria growth in most tanks though, even heavily stocked ones. If that were the case there would be all kinds of tanks out there with continuously rising ammonia and nitrite levels, but as it is most tanks have undetectable levels leading me to believe that food supply is the limiting factor.

Generally you'd connect it to some kind of pump and adjust the water flow until all the media is kept suspended, but not blown out of the filter. They've always seemed a bit gimmicky to me, or at least more trouble than they're worth.