livingart
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If it is directly on the wood then yes it can damage or discolour the wood.
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Yes indeed but they have been recorded in our waters before according to the red list link.
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Got a call at 8.45pm tonight from a young guy Kees Tucker that hehad caught a strange fish so he sent me a pic of it. I quickly raced dwn to the marina and picked up what appears to be Histrio histrio or Sargassum Weedfish. Now in te seahorsetank tilli can sort anoter tank out. http://www.iucnredlist.org/details/190183/0 Before he went in the tank
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Fibreglass or plastic bath and a shub that wre used for breeding goldfish, Includes 3 large goldfish. $150. Pickup Tauranga. Shub has stand pipe and Hansen fitting for drainage, Bath has drain fitting and repairable crack on top corner. Includes 3 large pond style goldfish.
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http://masna.org/masna-education/palytoxin/ The Power of Palytoxin By Amy McKenna M.S., Kevin Erickson M.Sc. Published August 21, 2016 STOP, if you suspect you are suffering from palytoxin exposure, seek immediate medical attention. PDF Available Here Discovery A Hawaiian legend tells the tale of how villagers on Maui, in seeking revenge for fishermen who kept disappearing, caught a Shark God with a hunger for human flesh and ripped him to pieces. They burned the pieces and tossed the ashes into a tide pool. But the ashes from the demon caused ugly brown anemones to grow in the tide pool. Later, the villagers learned that a blade smeared with these “limu” would cause certain death of the victim. The little anemones came to be known as “Limu Make O Hana” or Seaweed of Death from Hana (Palytoxin: Prehistory). Thanks to modern day science, those brown anemones, named Palythoa toxica, are now known to be members of zoanthid corals and the certain death contact with them caused is a result of poisoning by palytoxin. The isolation of palytoxin was achieved in December 1961 when researchers convinced local Hawaiians to reveal the location of the tidepool containing the Limu, the knowledge of which was “kapu” or taboo (Deeds et. al. 2011, Palytoxin: Prehistory). The samples tested revealed a unique toxin in efficacy, size, and mechanism of action. Since then, palytoxin (PTX) has been found in many more zoanthid species around the world, as well as red algae, a sea anemone, and several dinoflagellates. There is some speculation that palytoxin is not produced by the zoanthids themselves, but by Ostreopsis dinoflagellates that the animals bioaccumulate (Violand 2008) Alternately, that the bacteria that live symbiotically in the coral are the producers of the toxin (Tartaglione et. al. 2016). More studies need to be conducted, however palytoxin poisoning does occur in dinoflagellate blooms in the Mediterranean area from aerosolization of the marine toxin. Order Zoantharia A colony of “dragon eye” coral, Zoanthus sp. Public Domain, WikiMedia [https://goo.gl/lyMdPp] Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Cnidaria Class: Anthozoa Subclass: Hexacorallia Order: Zoantharia Family: Zoanthidae Zoanthids are known by several names in the aquarium trade industry including carpet coral, button polyps, “palys”, “zoas”, and “zoos”. They are an order of Cnidarians that is commonly found in reef tanks since they propagate easily and provide color. While related to corals, Zoanthids are neither corals nor soft corals. There is a distinction between Zoanthus and Palythoa, however the previous terminology is very strongly rooted in the hobby (Sprung 2015). According to Julian Sprung – and the taxonomic designation – the common name of “paly” refers to more than just genus Palythoa, it refers to genus Zoanthus. Referring to the above taxonomic chart, the genus is the next lower classification, as it becomes more specific. Palythoa grandis (Sun zoanthids) Public Domain, WikiMedia (https://goo.gl/xCBSRt) True Palythoa are brownish though some have bright shades of green. They are also very slimy and the tissue itself feels rough as they incorporate sand and other hard material into their tissue to strengthen themselves (Sprung 2003). The family Zoanthidae is the exception and they do not incorporate any particulates into their body. The organization of the tentacles into two distinct rows is the main shared characteristic of zoanthids. These animals typically feed by photosynthesis aided by zooxanthellae. Zoanthids can also capture particulate matter and plankton in the water column. They are typically a colonial organism but can also be found as individual polyps. Cnidarians have the oldest extant lineage of venomous animals in the world and their venom delivery system is as varied as the Cnidarians themselves. Even among jellyfish, the venom ranges in effectiveness from a mild itch to near immediate death for an adult human. However, the toxin of zoanthids is unique, even among the Cnidarians. This is palytoxin. It is produced by both Palythoa and Zoanthus sp. though the latter produces far less palytoxin than the former (Deeds 2011, Sprung 2015). Palytoxin Palytoxin is the most highly toxic, non protein substance known to humans. Its molecular weight is high, at 3300 dalton. Compare it to similar toxins such as batrachotoxin (from the poison dart frog), saxitoxin (paralytic shellfish poison), and tetrodotoxin (found in pufferfish, triggerfish, blue ring octopus, and moon snails) which are all less than 500 daltons in molecular weight (Moore 1971). The molecular structure of Palytoxin. Public Domain, WikiMedia [https://goo.gl/h57hsQ] Its LD50, the dose that kills 50% of a population in a given time, is 0.15-0.3 µg/kg administered by IV in mice. By comparison, the most venomous snake has an LD50 of 25 µg/kg and batrachotoxin has an LD50 of 2-7µg/kg. This means that a tenth of the weight of a grain of rice of palytoxin, injected intravenously, would kill a 200 lb man. While palytoxin has no effect on worms, crustaceans and fish, who feed on the zoanthids, the toxin can bioaccumulate and cause poisoning in humans after fish and crustacean consumption (Deeds 2011, Gussow 2014, Schemmer 2008). Palytoxin can kill stony coral, though not soft coral, so it is not recommended to combine them in the same tank (Sprung 2015). The extreme toxicity occurs in vertebrate cells, but with no cell specificity, so every cell that is exposed to the toxin is affected. Palytoxin acts extracellularly; it binds to surface cell receptors and creates a ‘pore’ in the cell membrane. Specifically, it binds to Na+, K+ -ATPase, or the sodium pump enzyme in charge of osmoregulation (Bignami 1992). This is the same binding site as ouabain, the plant derived toxin used as arrow poison in eastern Africa. For this reason it’s speculated that ouabain could be used to reduce the symptoms of palytoxin poisoning, though efficacy is untested (Chhatwal 1983). Sodium pumps are found in every vertebrate cell and are necessary for cell viability. The mechanism of the sodium-potassium exchange pump. To maintain a balance of ions and water, ATP (cellular energy) is used to power the pump to transport Sodium out of the cell and Potassium into the cell. When Palytoxin binds to the pump, it is left open and ion exchange is no longer regulated. Public Domain, WikiMedia (https://goo.gl/b2GYyO) Osmoregulation is key to cellular function and is controlled by the sodium pump in the cell membrane. This pump is an enzyme that regulates the input and output of sodium (Na+) and potassium (K+) ions. Na+ and K+ gradients in mammalian cells are in constant flux as the cell, and by extension the organism, seeks homeostasis in order to maintain cell volume. Too many Na+ and K+ ions inside the cell and water will be pulled in until the cell bursts. Too many solutes outside, and water leaves the cell until they shrivel. The movement of water and solutes across the cell membrane is what determines blood pressure and by extension, the health of the organism. By creating a pore in the cell, palytoxin is able to disrupt the osmotic balance of the cell. Na+ and K+ flood into the affected cell and water follows until the cell lyses (bursts) and dies (Na/K-ATPase). Symptoms of Exposure WARNING: Some may find the following images graphic in nature. Given the nature of palytoxin to be nonspecific in its cellular targets, there are multiple symptoms that can be indicative of exposure depending on how a victim is exposed. The initial lethal dose studies found that mice exhibited decreased locomotion, paralysis in their hind limbs, diarrhea, severe convulsions and shortness of breath. Most people who have experienced palytoxin exposure report feeling like they’re coming down with allergies, a cold, or the flu before recalling specific incidents with their reef tanks and live rock. Generally, palytoxin is lethal if ingested or injected. Contact through the skin or eyes, or by inhalation, is hazardous and still requires medical attention (Deeds 2010; Tartaglione 2016). The hands of Jim Craig in 2009 after cleaning Palythoas off of a shelf in a frag tank. More here. Photo used with permission. Pets are also at risk and symptoms include vomiting, restlessness, and heavy breathing. If you observe these symptoms in a pet after working on a reef tank or live rock that contains zoanthids, contact your veterinarian immediately. Notably, symptoms can vary based on how exposure to palytoxin occurs. Contact on unbroken skin will likely lead to general cold and flu-like symptoms with possible numbness in the limb that came in contact with palytoxin. If the skin is broken due to a scrape or a cut, the symptoms will occur much faster and can include infection, numbness and muscle pain. If palytoxin is able to enter the bloodstream it can be fatal. Ingestion, similarly, of either water or the animal themselves, can also be fatal as well as cause heart problems and breathing difficulties. If water that has contained zoanthids or mucous from a zoanthid enters the eye through spray, or touch contact, blindness may result as well as itching, burning and redness. Inhalation of aersolized palytoxin from the spray of fragging or steam if zoanthids are mistakenly boiled when saving life rock can lead to extensive breathing difficulties and hospitalization. There is nothing in humans or their mammalian pets that isn’t susceptible to palytoxin. Personal Stories and Medical Case Studies In 2007, a man cut his hand on rock while cleaning his saltwater aquarium (Hoffmann 2008). Two hours later he noticed weakness, shivering, and numbness in his fingers. Sixteen hours later he collapsed at work and was admitted to the hospital where he was dizzy, had speech disturbance and glassy eyes. Similarly, a member of a Virginia area marine aquarist society wrote of his experience with palytoxin in 2013. He cut his hand moving rock around. Later, he picked up another rock and his injured finger immediately started burning. He had squished a small group of palythoas. The next morning throbbing pain woke him up and his hand and arm were swollen. He went to the ER and informed the doctors of the possible palytoxin poisoning. He was treated with antibiotics and released, and symptoms gradually improved (L8 2 RISE 2013). On a message board, a man recalled an attempt to save live rock for later use and boiled them on the stove as is common in saltwater fishkeeping (Superrmario 2013). What he didn’t know was that palytoxin is heat resistant and can aerosolize. He, his wife and their dog were sick within hours with cold and flu like symptoms. A trip to the ER and chest x-rays revealed symptoms of bronchitis. Thankfully, they knew the likely source of their symptoms and were able to educate the doctor, who had no prior knowledge of palytoxin. They were sent home with an inhaler and antibiotics and gradually recovered. Their dog recovered as well. “Palythoa sp.”, courtesy of Andrew Butterworth (aka Butters) (http://goo.gl/S1Dkmm) In 2010, a reefer in Michigan rearranged items in his tank that he had sold. He neglected to wash his hands and rubbed his eye a short time later. That evening his eye felt irritated and he tried several over the counter methods to ease the irritation including flushing the eye with water and using rewetting drops. Those drops caused extreme pain and he went to the ER. At an opthamologist followup they recommended he see an eye specialist in Ann Arbor. The eye could barely be pried open. He was prescribed antibiotics and steroid drops. He could not see out of the eye except light; no shapes or colors were visible. His eyesight has slowly recovered though doctors are unable to predict if any permanent damage has occurred (acerhigh 2010). In 2015, a man required hospitalization in the ICU after a zoanthid squirted him in the eye (Ruiz 2015). Most recently, a Palythoa sp. expressed mucous directly into the eye of a coral farmer who also experienced pain, swelling and corneal injury (Chaudhry 2016). A man cleaned some Zoantharia corals in his basement sink with hot water with no protective equipment. His wife and daughter were also present in the home. Symptoms including a cough, fever, chills and weakness appeared within 1-2 hours of cleaning. They all went to the ER though the man was the most severe. He required supplemental oxygen and when nebulizer treatments made no change was admitted to the ICU. He was finally discharged after a week. His wife and daughter had a shorter stay but still required hospitalization (Hall 2015). An experienced aquarist nearly died from palytoxin poisoning. He had left rock with zoanthids overnight in a bucket. They had died so he scrubbed the rocks with hot water. He wore gloves and eye protection. However, he breathed in vaporized palytoxin, which remained despite the dead zoanthids. He thankfully printed out information on palytoxin to take with him to the ER, where he worsened, becoming paralyzed and coughing up blood. He did slowly recover (Kreeger 2012). A man in Virginia had a similar experience with boiling water and zoanthids. His case was not nearly as bad (Steveoutlaw 2007). Safe Handling Practices In addition to wearing long gloves and eye protection, a face mask is advisable to avoid breathing in palytoxin in the event that it becomes aerosolized. Rather than boiling rock for reuse, soak rock and coral in 10% bleach for thirty minutes to adequately kill any remaining zoanthids and neutralize any remaining palytoxin (CDC, Lowes 2015). Wear goggles! (https://goo.gl/JchAXR) If possible, clean rock outside, but if that is not possible and live rock must be handled in an enclosed space, open windows and run a fan for adequate ventilation. Do not pressure wash them or use a band-saw on zoanthid containing rock, as this can aerosolize palytoxin as well (Sprung 2015). When treating zoanthids that are overgrown with hair algae, keep the hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) dip short. Leaving the animals in the solution too long or at too high of a concentration will cause a release of palytoxin as a local fish store in Colorado can attest (Anecdote). There are no best practices or official evidence-based handling guidelines according to the CDC as research still needs to be done (Hamade 2015). While laboratory levels of safety are not financially feasible for the average reefkeeper, following as many CDC guidelines for handling toxins of biological origin as possible should minimize hazardous incidents (PDF link). Keep any water that has contained zoanthids away from pets and children, as ingestion of palytoxin can be fatal. Gloves are even more critical if you have any open wounds as injection of palytoxin directly into the bloodstream can be fatal if not treated. Once you are finished cleaning and/or defragging rock, wash your gloves in the sink before removing them and wash your eye protection once your gloves are safely removed (Groseclose 2015). If you exhibit symptoms of palytoxin exposure after handling rock, coral and water from your tank, take yourself to an emergency room immediately. To better assist doctors, print out some of the following publicly available resources regarding palytoxins so they can make the best decisions possible in your health care. CDC Morbidity and Mortality report on Palytoxin Inhalation Exposure NIH Toxicology Data Network Entry on Palytoxins A recorded presentation from the Alaskan Section of Epidemiology Palytoxin exposure through skin injury In Conclusion There are three genera of Zoanthids that are known to contain varying concentrations of palytoxins: Zoanthus sp., Palythoa sp., and Protopalythoa. There are no home tests to determine if a specimen contains palytoxins until symptoms appear after exposure. If you have these animals in your reef tank, be aware of the danger they pose and handle them with care and admire their color from the other side of the acrylic or glass. Summary Palytoxin exposure can occur through ingestion of animals that have eaten zoanthids, inhalation of vapor containing palytoxin, or through physical contact of skin with the corals Seek medical attention immediately if you develop flu like symptoms within a few hours of handling coral, live rock, or cleaning your aquarium Exercise caution and assume your live rock has palytoxin producing zoanthids, always use proper protective equipment such as goggles, long gloves and a face mask when rearranging and cleaning your tank. If possible, handle any possible zoanthids with tongs to avoid contact with potential palytoxin containing slime. Clean your gloves first before removing them, then goggles and mask Bio Amy is a microbiologist. She has a Masters degree in Microbiology from the University of Florida, specializing in Astrobiology, and Bachelors in both Marine Biology and Ecology. In her spare time she manages a hobby farm and in home aquaponics.
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Welcome aboard
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Beat the facebook ban on live animal adverts. Post on this forum then share the link to facebook. Eazy az Chur Bro.
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Hi Sandy, good to see you back with a tank again. There is a facebook group called Fish are friends Manawatu I think.
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The worm treatment may have killed other organisms in the tank which in turn has caused the ammonia spike. Or the dead worms could have caused it.
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Nice start will look epic when it all starts growing.
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2nd clutch hatched, only 5 and 1 hatched 24 hrs later but bigger than the rest. 1st 24 hrs in small container then moved to a larger one with young crickets for food.
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Cycling your tank Author: Jennifer Hamlin First published in Aquarium World Magazine November 2011 When getting a new tank, it can be tempting to rush and fill it with fish, but if the filter isn’t properly prepared, a new tank can quickly result in a series of disappointments as the water quality deteriorates and the fish struggle to survive. Fish that live in enclosed aquariums are subject to a buildup of toxic wastes in their environment. The majority of these waste products result from the fish urinating, defecating and breathing in the water where they live. Additional waste products can result from decomposing organic matter in the aquarium such as decaying plants, excess food and dead fish. These waste products have one thing in common, the nitrogen molecule. There are a number of species of beneficial bacteria that process nitrogenous wastes into less toxic chemicals and these bacteria work to our advantage by eliminating waste products so that the aquarium is less toxic for its inhabitants. Aquarium filters have been devised to maximise the space provided for these beneficial bacteria to thrive. This type of filtration is called biological filtration and the initial establishment of bacteria within the biological filter is called cycling the filter and is essential to ensure that the water quality is maintained for the good health of the fish. This is one of the most important principles to understand when keeping fish. The Nitrogen Cycle To understand biological filtration, it is helpful to understand the way in which wastes are processed by bacteria in the aquarium. This process is called the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is one of the principle chemicals in the nitrogen cycle. Fish produce ammonia as a waste product from the digestion of foods and as a by-product from respiration. Uneaten food, solid waste, plant materials, and other organic items decaying in the tank also produce ammonia. Ammonia is a nitrogen-based compound, and it is extremely toxic to all animals. In an aquarium, ammonia can build up quickly. Even a very small amount of ammonia can be stressful to fish so it is important to remove ammonia from the water before it builds up to toxic levels. In nature, a type of bacteria known as Nitrosomonas thrive on a constant diet of ammonia. In an oxygen-rich environment, Nitrosomonas consume ammonia and converts it into nitrite. Nitrite is also toxic to fish and in the long run tends to be a larger problem than ammonia. Another type of bacteria, Nitrospira (also known as Nitrobacter), will consume the nitrite and convert it to nitrate, a relatively harmless compound that can be used up by plants and algae. It is this partnership between Nitrosomonas and Nitrospira which enables the biological filter to function so that fish can be kept in closed aquarium systems. TIP: note the difference in spelling between nitrite and nitrate. Nitrate is the end product so remember it by thinking that the toxic compounds have been all eaten up – ‘ate’ Nitrosomonas bacteria are found everywhere in oxygen rich environments with sufficient nitrogenous waste; however, in the closed aquarium it takes a while for these bacteria to build up a population that is capable of consuming all the ammonia produced by the fish. The buildup of Nitrospira is even slower since high ammonia levels inhibit its growth. Only when the Nitrosomonas bacteria convert the toxic ammonia to nitrite will the Nitrospira populations be able to grow. While it may only take a few days for the population of Nitrosomonas to grow large enough to control the ammonia levels, the delay in Nitrospira growth means it can be a week or more before nitrite is under control. Once the population of nitrifying bacteria is established, the tank is considered to be ‘cycled’ and as long as the level of waste in the aquarium remains constant, and the bacterial population remains healthy, there should no longer be a build up of toxic ammonia. The tank is now a safe environment for fish to live. The end product of the nitrogen cycle is nitrate. In low concentrations, nitrate will not harm fish and it can actually provide a useful nutrient for aquatic plant growth; however, if there are no plants in the tank to consume the nitrate, simpler plants like algae will begin to grow and can cause a nuisance. Also, high nitrate levels can be stressful for fish so it is important to minimise nitrate buildup by keeping aquatic plants or by doing regular partial water changes. Methods of Cycling When establishing a new tank, it is best not to fully stock the tank until the filter is capable of handling the bioload of waste products. There are several ways to get the biological filter ready to handle a tank full of fish. The main methods include: Adding mature media Seeding the filter with a bacterial culture Fishless cycling Cycling with fish Mature Media One of the best ways to quickly establish a working biological filter is to add mature media from an established filter. In other words, this means taking used filter media (e.g. noodles, sponges or filter wool) and placing it into the new filter so that the bacteria can quickly spread throughout the new filter media and tank. In a stable established tank it is safe to remove a small portion of the biological filter media (no more than a third) and replace it with new media. In no time the bacterial populations will return to normal. When transferring the mature media it is important to keep the bacteria alive so that they will be able to colonise the new filter. The bacteria will start to die off slowly without a constant flow of oxygenated water so it is important to get it into a running filter quickly to get the best benefit. It is helpful to treat the media as you would a live fish – ensure it has oxygen and is kept in mature stable water conditions (use mature tank water and avoid temperature extremes). Aim to place it into the filter as soon as possible to minimise bacterial die off. The new filter can be filled with new media and then the mature media can be added (be sure to add some of the ‘dirty’ water that the filter media was transported in as this will contain bacteria as well). The tank should be able to safely handle a small number of fish with minimal risk of ammonia spikes. When the new tank has had time to settle and all of the new media in the filter has had a chance to build up populations of nitrifying bacteria, more fish can be added slowly to build up the bioload (the amount of waste produced by the tank and its inhabitants). The filter in the picture above has been running for a long time and it is well cycled. It has just been opened and a good amount of brown sludge can be seen. A small portion of the ‘dirty’ media from this filter can be a great way to start up a new filter. Seeding the Filter Seeding the filter is when new media is colonised by adding a culture of nitrifying bacteria. This can be achieved either from adding ‘dirty water’ from a mature tank or by adding a commercial bacterial culture like TLC Smart Start to the new tank water. Once the bacteria have been added to the new media, they must have a supply of nitrogenous waste to consume or they will not survive. Adding a few hardy fish can ensure that these bacteria survive however it is very important to monitor the ammonia and nitrite levels to make sure that the bacteria are able to handle the waste that the fish provide. A number of excellent products are avaialble on the market that offer bacterial cultures that can speed up cycling. TLC Smart Start is one such product. A bottle of this is added to the tank and a full complement of nitrifying bacteria will seed the filter as well as all other surfaces of the tank helping it to get established and avoid toxic levels of ammonia and nitrites. Other tank additives such as Cycle, Seachem Prime and Stress Zyme have some added nitrifying bacteria that can be added on a weekly basis, or whenever water is changed, to help with cycling but they are generally just adding Nitrosomonas bacteria in small quantities so are not as effective at completely seeding the filter. Some can be useful in reducing toxic ammonia levels but this should not be a cure for bad husbandry. Fishless Cycling If starting with completely new media in a new tank, virtually no nitrifying bacteria will exist so a population will need to be established. The first step is to create an ammonia-rich environment that will support the first populations of beneficial bacteria. Ammonia can be supplied by fish living in the tank, or by adding pure household ammonia to a tank that as no fish. In the interests of minimising suffering to the fish who may have to endure toxic levels of ammonia and nitrite, a fishless cycling method is preferred by many experienced fishkeepers. This method also tends to be much faster than cycling with fish since a higher level of ammonia can be added without risking harm to any fish. How To: With the fishless cycling method, no fish are added until the tank is completely cycled. The ammonia levels are created artificially either in the form of adding decaying food, dead fish, dead shrimp or simply by adding a small amount of pure ammonia (without added detergents) from the supermarket. The following steps are carried out: The tank is filled with water and the heater is turned up to 32 degrees. Ammonia is added until the levels are just detectable (up to 4 ppm (mg/L) using a standard aquatic ammonia test kit. The water is tested every day and after a week or so the ammonia levels will begin to drop and the nitrite levels will increase. After a few more days, the nitrite levels will keep rising and eventually it will start to fall and the nitrate levels will begin to increase. Once there is no trace of ammonia or nitrites the temperature can be turned down and a partial water change can be carried out (do not clean the filter or vacuum the gravel). This process will take 7 days to 3 weeks depending on the concentration of ammonia and the careful control of ammonia levels throughout. A small number of fish can be added as soon as the water is tested to be stable for 24 hours (i.e. a suitable temperature and no toxic compounds). The number of fish can gradually be built up over time as bacterial populations adjust to the bioload. Cycling with Fish A new tank and filter can also be cycled with fish using the same principle as the fishless cycling method; however, this method uses the natural ammonia waste products from the fish living in the tank instead of any adding any pure ammonia. In many ways, this method is the least desirable way to cycle the tank since the fish may have to endure very toxic conditions until the nitrifying bacteria have populated the filter sufficiently to handle the bioload. Since the tank is in a state of instability, there are also additional problems that can occur during this process including bacterial bloom or fish diseases. How to: There are a few things to consider when cycling with fish: Only a few fish should be added (depending on the size of the tank) so that the amount of waste product is very low – this will help ensure the ammonia levels do not spike too high and kill all the fish suddenly. Some species of fish are not hardy enough to withstand the harsh conditions of cycling but even for the hardiest species it is not uncommon for fish to die during this process. Oxygen levels must be kept very high since the ammonia will damage the fish’s gills and make it difficult for them to extract oxygen from the water. The fish should not be fed too much and ideally not at all if the ammonia levels have spiked. Very careful monitoring of the ammonia levels will If ammonia levels rise over 4 ppm (mg/L) then steps will need to be taken (such as partial water changes) to reduce toxicity or the fish will die. If conditions get too harsh, chemical filtration like Ammo Chips can be added to absorb excess ammonia and while this can save the fish, it will delay the cycling process. Chemicals like Ammo Lock will temporarily make the ammonia levels safe, but they will not prevent the nitrifying bacteria from utilising it which means toxic nitrite will still be produced. It is important to be aware that the fish will be stressed by rapidly fluctuating tank conditions so make every effort to keep conditions in check. Water Testing For experienced fishkeepers, water testing is something that is carried out if and when there appears to be a problem. Carefully observing the fish’s behaviour can say a lot about the tank’s water stability and an experienced fishkeeper can detect even the most subtle changes in demeanour, activity and appetite. For new or inexperienced fishkeepers, water testing is a way to ensure that the tank is safe for fish to live in and it can help educate about early signs of problems. At its very basic, water testing helps to ensure that the filter is functioning optimally; it also is a way to ensure that the pH, hardness and salinity are as they should be for the species being kept. For some parameters, like ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, it is helpful to test the tank water before doing a water change since the objective is to determine what the fish have been living in and how well the filter is working. For other parameters, like pH, hardness and salinity (for brackish or saltwater tanks), the testing should be carried out on the water that will be introduced to the tank although they can also be carried out on existing tank water if a fluctuation in these values is suspected. Most fish shops offer free water testing for the basic parameters such as ammonia and nitrite but it can be very helpful for a fishkeeper to purchase their own test kit that they can use in the home when needed. Monitoring water chemistry with a home kit is an easy affair. Most test kits provide easy to follow instructions and information about what results should be expected and when to seek help. © This item may not be reproduced without written permission
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Cycling your tank Author: Jennifer Hamlin First published in Aquarium World Magazine November 2011 When getting a new tank, it can be tempting to rush and fill it with fish, but if the filter isn’t properly prepared, a new tank can quickly result in a series of disappointments as the water quality deteriorates and the fish struggle to survive. Fish that live in enclosed aquariums are subject to a buildup of toxic wastes in their environment. The majority of these waste products result from the fish urinating, defecating and breathing in the water where they live. Additional waste products can result from decomposing organic matter in the aquarium such as decaying plants, excess food and dead fish. These waste products have one thing in common, the nitrogen molecule. There are a number of species of beneficial bacteria that process nitrogenous wastes into less toxic chemicals and these bacteria work to our advantage by eliminating waste products so that the aquarium is less toxic for its inhabitants. Aquarium filters have been devised to maximise the space provided for these beneficial bacteria to thrive. This type of filtration is called biological filtration and the initial establishment of bacteria within the biological filter is called cycling the filter and is essential to ensure that the water quality is maintained for the good health of the fish. This is one of the most important principles to understand when keeping fish. The Nitrogen Cycle To understand biological filtration, it is helpful to understand the way in which wastes are processed by bacteria in the aquarium. This process is called the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is one of the principle chemicals in the nitrogen cycle. Fish produce ammonia as a waste product from the digestion of foods and as a by-product from respiration. Uneaten food, solid waste, plant materials, and other organic items decaying in the tank also produce ammonia. Ammonia is a nitrogen-based compound, and it is extremely toxic to all animals. In an aquarium, ammonia can build up quickly. Even a very small amount of ammonia can be stressful to fish so it is important to remove ammonia from the water before it builds up to toxic levels. In nature, a type of bacteria known as Nitrosomonas thrive on a constant diet of ammonia. In an oxygen-rich environment, Nitrosomonas consume ammonia and converts it into nitrite. Nitrite is also toxic to fish and in the long run tends to be a larger problem than ammonia. Another type of bacteria, Nitrospira (also known as Nitrobacter), will consume the nitrite and convert it to nitrate, a relatively harmless compound that can be used up by plants and algae. It is this partnership between Nitrosomonas and Nitrospira which enables the biological filter to function so that fish can be kept in closed aquarium systems. TIP: note the difference in spelling between nitrite and nitrate. Nitrate is the end product so remember it by thinking that the toxic compounds have been all eaten up – ‘ate’ Nitrosomonas bacteria are found everywhere in oxygen rich environments with sufficient nitrogenous waste; however, in the closed aquarium it takes a while for these bacteria to build up a population that is capable of consuming all the ammonia produced by the fish. The buildup of Nitrospira is even slower since high ammonia levels inhibit its growth. Only when the Nitrosomonas bacteria convert the toxic ammonia to nitrite will the Nitrospira populations be able to grow. While it may only take a few days for the population of Nitrosomonas to grow large enough to control the ammonia levels, the delay in Nitrospira growth means it can be a week or more before nitrite is under control. Once the population of nitrifying bacteria is established, the tank is considered to be ‘cycled’ and as long as the level of waste in the aquarium remains constant, and the bacterial population remains healthy, there should no longer be a build up of toxic ammonia. The tank is now a safe environment for fish to live. The end product of the nitrogen cycle is nitrate. In low concentrations, nitrate will not harm fish and it can actually provide a useful nutrient for aquatic plant growth; however, if there are no plants in the tank to consume the nitrate, simpler plants like algae will begin to grow and can cause a nuisance. Also, high nitrate levels can be stressful for fish so it is important to minimise nitrate buildup by keeping aquatic plants or by doing regular partial water changes. Methods of Cycling When establishing a new tank, it is best not to fully stock the tank until the filter is capable of handling the bioload of waste products. There are several ways to get the biological filter ready to handle a tank full of fish. The main methods include: Adding mature media Seeding the filter with a bacterial culture Fishless cycling Cycling with fish Mature Media One of the best ways to quickly establish a working biological filter is to add mature media from an established filter. In other words, this means taking used filter media (e.g. noodles, sponges or filter wool) and placing it into the new filter so that the bacteria can quickly spread throughout the new filter media and tank. In a stable established tank it is safe to remove a small portion of the biological filter media (no more than a third) and replace it with new media. In no time the bacterial populations will return to normal. When transferring the mature media it is important to keep the bacteria alive so that they will be able to colonise the new filter. The bacteria will start to die off slowly without a constant flow of oxygenated water so it is important to get it into a running filter quickly to get the best benefit. It is helpful to treat the media as you would a live fish – ensure it has oxygen and is kept in mature stable water conditions (use mature tank water and avoid temperature extremes). Aim to place it into the filter as soon as possible to minimise bacterial die off. The new filter can be filled with new media and then the mature media can be added (be sure to add some of the ‘dirty’ water that the filter media was transported in as this will contain bacteria as well). The tank should be able to safely handle a small number of fish with minimal risk of ammonia spikes. When the new tank has had time to settle and all of the new media in the filter has had a chance to build up populations of nitrifying bacteria, more fish can be added slowly to build up the bioload (the amount of waste produced by the tank and its inhabitants). The filter in the picture above has been running for a long time and it is well cycled. It has just been opened and a good amount of brown sludge can be seen. A small portion of the ‘dirty’ media from this filter can be a great way to start up a new filter. Seeding the Filter Seeding the filter is when new media is colonised by adding a culture of nitrifying bacteria. This can be achieved either from adding ‘dirty water’ from a mature tank or by adding a commercial bacterial culture like TLC Smart Start to the new tank water. Once the bacteria have been added to the new media, they must have a supply of nitrogenous waste to consume or they will not survive. Adding a few hardy fish can ensure that these bacteria survive however it is very important to monitor the ammonia and nitrite levels to make sure that the bacteria are able to handle the waste that the fish provide. A number of excellent products are avaialble on the market that offer bacterial cultures that can speed up cycling. TLC Smart Start is one such product. A bottle of this is added to the tank and a full complement of nitrifying bacteria will seed the filter as well as all other surfaces of the tank helping it to get established and avoid toxic levels of ammonia and nitrites. Other tank additives such as Cycle, Seachem Prime and Stress Zyme have some added nitrifying bacteria that can be added on a weekly basis, or whenever water is changed, to help with cycling but they are generally just adding Nitrosomonas bacteria in small quantities so are not as effective at completely seeding the filter. Some can be useful in reducing toxic ammonia levels but this should not be a cure for bad husbandry. Fishless Cycling If starting with completely new media in a new tank, virtually no nitrifying bacteria will exist so a population will need to be established. The first step is to create an ammonia-rich environment that will support the first populations of beneficial bacteria. Ammonia can be supplied by fish living in the tank, or by adding pure household ammonia to a tank that as no fish. In the interests of minimising suffering to the fish who may have to endure toxic levels of ammonia and nitrite, a fishless cycling method is preferred by many experienced fishkeepers. This method also tends to be much faster than cycling with fish since a higher level of ammonia can be added without risking harm to any fish. How To: With the fishless cycling method, no fish are added until the tank is completely cycled. The ammonia levels are created artificially either in the form of adding decaying food, dead fish, dead shrimp or simply by adding a small amount of pure ammonia (without added detergents) from the supermarket. The following steps are carried out: The tank is filled with water and the heater is turned up to 32 degrees. Ammonia is added until the levels are just detectable (up to 4 ppm (mg/L) using a standard aquatic ammonia test kit. The water is tested every day and after a week or so the ammonia levels will begin to drop and the nitrite levels will increase. After a few more days, the nitrite levels will keep rising and eventually it will start to fall and the nitrate levels will begin to increase. Once there is no trace of ammonia or nitrites the temperature can be turned down and a partial water change can be carried out (do not clean the filter or vacuum the gravel). This process will take 7 days to 3 weeks depending on the concentration of ammonia and the careful control of ammonia levels throughout. A small number of fish can be added as soon as the water is tested to be stable for 24 hours (i.e. a suitable temperature and no toxic compounds). The number of fish can gradually be built up over time as bacterial populations adjust to the bioload. Cycling with Fish A new tank and filter can also be cycled with fish using the same principle as the fishless cycling method; however, this method uses the natural ammonia waste products from the fish living in the tank instead of any adding any pure ammonia. In many ways, this method is the least desirable way to cycle the tank since the fish may have to endure very toxic conditions until the nitrifying bacteria have populated the filter sufficiently to handle the bioload. Since the tank is in a state of instability, there are also additional problems that can occur during this process including bacterial bloom or fish diseases. How to: There are a few things to consider when cycling with fish: Only a few fish should be added (depending on the size of the tank) so that the amount of waste product is very low – this will help ensure the ammonia levels do not spike too high and kill all the fish suddenly. Some species of fish are not hardy enough to withstand the harsh conditions of cycling but even for the hardiest species it is not uncommon for fish to die during this process. Oxygen levels must be kept very high since the ammonia will damage the fish’s gills and make it difficult for them to extract oxygen from the water. The fish should not be fed too much and ideally not at all if the ammonia levels have spiked. Very careful monitoring of the ammonia levels will If ammonia levels rise over 4 ppm (mg/L) then steps will need to be taken (such as partial water changes) to reduce toxicity or the fish will die. If conditions get too harsh, chemical filtration like Ammo Chips can be added to absorb excess ammonia and while this can save the fish, it will delay the cycling process. Chemicals like Ammo Lock will temporarily make the ammonia levels safe, but they will not prevent the nitrifying bacteria from utilising it which means toxic nitrite will still be produced. It is important to be aware that the fish will be stressed by rapidly fluctuating tank conditions so make every effort to keep conditions in check. Water Testing For experienced fishkeepers, water testing is something that is carried out if and when there appears to be a problem. Carefully observing the fish’s behaviour can say a lot about the tank’s water stability and an experienced fishkeeper can detect even the most subtle changes in demeanour, activity and appetite. For new or inexperienced fishkeepers, water testing is a way to ensure that the tank is safe for fish to live in and it can help educate about early signs of problems. At its very basic, water testing helps to ensure that the filter is functioning optimally; it also is a way to ensure that the pH, hardness and salinity are as they should be for the species being kept. For some parameters, like ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, it is helpful to test the tank water before doing a water change since the objective is to determine what the fish have been living in and how well the filter is working. For other parameters, like pH, hardness and salinity (for brackish or saltwater tanks), the testing should be carried out on the water that will be introduced to the tank although they can also be carried out on existing tank water if a fluctuation in these values is suspected. Most fish shops offer free water testing for the basic parameters such as ammonia and nitrite but it can be very helpful for a fishkeeper to purchase their own test kit that they can use in the home when needed. Monitoring water chemistry with a home kit is an easy affair. Most test kits provide easy to follow instructions and information about what results should be expected and when to seek help. © This item may not be reproduced without written permission
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No sorry, nothing until myd January maybe.
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Cooked I hope. Does make a nice Sushi too though.
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The first of this seasons youngsters, Pogona vitticeps And his breakfast.
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They are a beautiful fish, well done.
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All is not lost, more are available.
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Breeding Chocolate Fish Cocoa pisces (deliscioso) I recently managed to acquire a trio of Chocolate fish to try breeding with, A melanistic male, a normal female and an albino female. Breeding Tank parameters. Minimum size 100 litres Temperature under 18 centigrade otherwise they get soft and lethargic. PH neutral to soft. I used chocolate sprinkles as substrate and fed them Cadbury Flake food to condition them for breeding. These fish usually spawn in caves laying a large egg mass which the male guards for7 days before they hatch. Egg mass. Once the fry hatch I remove the parents just in case they are tempted to eat them. Picture of newly hatched fry. I feed the fry fine particles of food, this is easily achieved by grating a chocolate bar on a kitchen grater. I hope this article helps you achieve breeding these sweet fish. Fry ready for sale.
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Sad to see your fish has bit the big one but luckily they are a common import nowadays.
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No it looks fine just asleep, it is an albino or white chocolate gourami. When it wakes up and opens its eyes you will be able to see if the eyes are dark or red.
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Can't wait to see this set up.
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https://view.joomag.com/iherp-australia-issue-3/0682664001501470952?short
