Insect Direct

Cheers, I was going to pull it apart yesterday as could do with the tank for something else, but just seemed like a waste. So cleaned glass and took some photos instead :sml2: The dark green stuff is xmas moss so im told. I use to think it was java, definitely one or the other Small moss growing up the log is a native i think, hardly see it in pic. Lush lime green stuff you can just make out in the centre, looks like this http://www.terrain.net.nz/friends-of-te-henui-group/club-mosses/african-clubmoss-selaginella-kraussian.html

Slightly Revised Care sheet / Guide for the: Green and Golden Bell Frog. Scientific name: Litoria aurea. Also have Litoria raniformis the Southern bell frog in NZ (very similar). Distribution: Litoria aurea mainly found in the upper North Island. Litoria raniformis lower North Island and South Island. Description: Green and golden through to brown. L. Raniformis often has bumpier skin and at times a green stripe down the center of its back. Mix between arboreal/tree frog and aquatic/ground dwelling frogs. These are good at both climbing and swimming making these frogs rather unique. Like to bask in sunlight. Generally hang out near the waters edge or slightly above ground level in low branches or foliage. Status: Abundant in North of NZ. Endangered in Australia. Size: Males upto 8cm and generally slim build. Females upto 11cm and often more plump especially when in season and full of upto 10,000 eggs. Largest recorded spawn is 11682 eggs. Average a few thousand eggs at a time and can do this many times a season. Metamorphs: 1.5-3.7cm. Average size 2.4cm Food: Live crickets, locusts, flies, mealworms, slaters, moths and so on, also known to predate other frogs including its on kind, but generally only if food is scarce. Tadpoles graze on decaying plant matter. Tip - place crickets in a container with raised sides (5-10cm will suffice) and the frogs will come to. Thus keeping most of the crickets contained and you can monitor who is eating. Crickets can also be released weekly throughout enclosures however you ought to take careful consideration of the terrariums landscape. For example works best with minimal water and easy access out of water to achieve best results with this method. No nibbling on frogs ever witnessed and Insect Direct has raised hundreds if not thousands now. Mealworms ok occasionally - place in a dish. Locusts just release and or hand feed (watch to make sure they don't drown). I try and feed them at least every other day. If a frog is skinny, offer food daily. If getting fat, flies are good exercise. Enclosures: Aim for about 1/3 water area and at least deep enough for them to fully submerge. Easy access out of water is essential - especially for young frogs - also helps any stray live food escape. Roughly speaking: 60x30x30cm MINIMUM (ok for two frogs) 100x45x45cm GOOD (upto 5/6 frogs?) 120x60x60cm GREAT (Colony of frogs 10+) Bigger the better when comes to frogs / most reptiles. Lighting & Heating: Reptile bulb or tube to replicate the sun. Heat lamp or ceramic heat emitter to encourage basking. Basking temp 25-30C, I aim for 26C. At 30C its abit like they are on steriods and become very active, almost bouncing off the walls, with a ravenous appetite. Nighttime these can handle down to 15C possibly less however I aim for no less than 20C. Can heat the water area with an aquarium heater or heat mat placed under the tank. Southern bell frogs more cold tolerant. Substrate: River sand and or river stones work well. Hardwood branches add to the aesthetics. Bare bottom tanks full of driftwood work well for breeding and or general living - really makes for simplistic upkeep also. Filtration: Makes vivarium maintenance much easier, more stable water conditions equating to happy frogs. Canister filters are great. Under gravel filters (UGF) are OK as to are small internal filters. However small internal filters will likely need to be rinsed every week or two. Do so in old tank water not chlorinated tap water. Never clean thoroughly as will kill off the good bacteria that helps the filter keep the water clean and stable. Water changes: At least 20% once a week is probably a good base line. Temperature: 22-26C seems to be a good temp. Breeding Bell Frogs: Rewarding - easy to breed.. Breeding is stimulated by a raise in temperature and an abundance of food. Much like the frogs experience in the wild when spring and summer come to town. Rainfall is also a cue however not necessary. Winter shut-down is helpful for breeding and fertility however not needed for this species. Would only advise if having problems with fertility. 22-28 degrees Celsius is suitable for breeding. Lower temperatures are OK for winter shut-down. Careful consideration and planning is a must if opting for winter shut-down/brumation. Recordings of bell frogs croaking (available online) can be played back to the frogs to help start the breeding process but generally not needed if frogs are fed good food and kept in ideal conditions. Males will call until females submit and are mounted then the female will deposit upto 10,000 eggs (2000-3000 more typical in captivity) in the water whilst the male fertilises them. This amount of tadpoles will require some serious room and quality water to have any chance of success. Breeding is the easy bit - good luck and happy herping from Insect Direct! Would appreciate any input as this is just what works for me.

Such a negative bunch. Rugby rugby rugby oi oi oi Winning, with out even knowing it, since 1987.

UPDATE Bit of growth, erosion, and driftwood seems to have moved.. September

I can't wait, I like most sports, rugby is huge in NZ and the world cup is coming here so get behind it I say. Seen a few cars driving around with All Black flags flying high already :rotf: I think on a whole it is a very positive thing for the country.

Is a concern indeed. Those were some bred in captivity. Thankfully the only batch I have seen like that. Not so good they are being discovered in the wild here in NZ. Just recently, in March, a wild litoria aurea with five feet was found North of Auckland :-? . Have had severe spinal troubles in the albinos tadpoles I have been raising. Tried all sorts to correct it to no avail. Fairly sure that it is another parasite (different to one that is likely to be the cause of extra limbs) that is known to infect native fish. Truly fascinating that something so small, something seemingly irrelevant, could cause such destruction. Interesting thing is, the albinos (and or anything related) seem to be more susceptible to infection leading to malformation. Possibly explained by way of the albinos are simply weaker, deficient or what ever? But from my observations in every other aspect they're just about, if not, as strong and as healthy as any other species I've raised. Therefore find it fascinating why they seem so prone to it.

:lol:

true, forgot you had the two tree frogs. frogs need just the right conditions to spawn. definitely need male and female post pictures of your frogs and ill try id male / female if you like? and or enclosure, always keen to see photos here. why not just get a female tree frog? they're the perfect pet frog I reckon.

:lol: firstly you will need lots of feed? suppose you could just try with a pair or even better a female and two males. then there's the noise. if trying to breed they can croak for weeks without even spawning. Have you already got some frogs or ?

they survive frosts. in winter they basically go dormant because it is not warm enough for them to metabolise food. and if they could and did turn into frogs in winter well there isn't much insects so they would be doomed anyway. So they just go dormant over winter until it warms up, then come spring time and the sun starts to heat things up, they start to grow again. by the time theyre frogs the insects are out and about and away they go good typing practice :facepalm: oh and legally speaking if you bring them indoors or into 'captivity' your not suppose to release them. bascially once in captivity must stay there. happy frogging :sml2:

no more than twice a day. every second day is probably more than enough? especially in cold water as they wont be eating much? if you raise temp to 20C id feed once a day, may be twice. breeders secret: if they look skinny feed more if they look fat feed less :sml1:

why do you want 'more' frogs?

yeah just keep an eye on the water, as it will go off faster at higher temps. don't over feed. don't over stock. healthy tadpoles seem to do ok on just about any food. cant beat the outdoors really. nice and slow as mother nature intended.

Probably just slow due to low temp. Could leave them there as it is warming up now. 18-20C is probably a good temp for brown tree frogs. under 15C they dont seem to grow, above 22C is getting up there but they can handle upto 24C but you need to be on to it at higher temps as things get funky fast. Could just bring a couple inside (the old man wont know :lol: ), raise them in an ice cream container etc. should see some difference in size, compared to ones outside, within 2-4weeks.

just the rock work. i have a frog enclosure, ply walls over a small plastic pond, i tried polythene with rocks piled up in the corner but it leaked :facepalm:

i could definitely do with one of those, about half the size. cheers :thup: :lol:

I got to go see my frogs the other day. They're off getting bred and a few tests done. Here's hoping this year or next there may be some more of these frogs around. Meet strains: Custard and Cream. One on the left is recovering from liver troubles I think, still a bit puffy, but looking ok.

Nice. No sealers then, just cemix?

not an expert but I think that's pretty impressive. 15-20 years in captivity is doing well from what I can gather.

probably not a good idea to just go out and catch adults from the wild. get some tadpoles, grow them on, that way in 6month to a year when they breed you will appreciate it more or keep an eye on trademe, there's often frogs / unwanted pets on there.

males: generally slimmer. get to about 8cm yellow-greyish colour to throat when in season. males thumbs go solid black / nuptial pads swell and blacken. is for grasping females. females: more plump, up to about 11cm. pure white throat in season or may be just depending on mood? nts: need to check that. best to get a large group of frogs (at least 6-8frogs, 5 males to 3 females works well). not impossible to breed with just a couple but they seem to like competition to spur them on. is a we bit to the breeding side of it, 'just add water and wish for the best :facepalm: bed time for me :nilly:

mayday mayday heli + compact fluro = vacume duty :facepalm:

seem's to be an ever growing number of frog keepers on here

fatal attractions on tv1 (tonight i think) has been a good watch so far. last week some chick got killed by her snake :lol:

frogs :thup: Welcome