sharronpaul

Have they still not dropped, Jim? Alanmin, it's been around four weeks since I last saw them and they were huge then. They originally came from me, both proven breeders. Now they must be the size of a small african country. Anybody want to do a c-section on them? :lol:

It's not leaking around the o-ring, like mine used to?

I have a tank 1800x450x450, in 6mm, euro braced top and bottom. It's fine, has had some big knocks from the inhabitants and its going strong. 8mm would be a bit more conservative, but 6mm has worked for me.

Welcome to the forums

Hi Milet Welcome to the forums

Does it come with the house?

Welcome

Just remembered the 103F's are rated at 1200l/h, perhaps a little aggressive for a 150L tank? I've successfully used 102F's in 150L tanks with no problems, and IMO they're easier to clean.

It could very well be the impeller - the ceramic shafts are usually pretty good but the impellers arn't quite as durable. We had twenty of them running in our first large fishroom, and all they did was hum a little. Also, if you find the current is a bit much, try turning the flow down - on the side of the pump is a little lever, fully one way is max flow, the other is much slower. Have a play and see if it makes a difference for you. A new impeller is fairly cheap. Should be only a few dollars from your LFS.

I don't give mine any specific foods - they get the flake that everybody else in the community gets and have been in the tank now for a good eight or ten months. Also, they're real fun to catch if you have to - very busy wriggly fish.

Just had to make sure that I was in the cichlid forum..... for a moment it looked like I was in marines. :-?

I reckon to set up an 8' tank with a decent filter, heaters and lights would be about $1500 plus a stand plus your fish. This is assuming $800 for the tank (for a new or newish one). I built my 6' that our aro is in (he's now maybe 45-50cm, nearly ready for a bigger tank), got the glass for free so tank cost just a tube of silicon, but stand/paint/fittings cost $350, gear (filter (AR1200), lights, heaters) $320. The filter is a bit marginal, really need two. For something like an 8', I would go for an aquis 2400 (or equiv other brand) and another smaller canister. Our aro tends to freak out if there is too much light, so a pair of 4' twin flouros should work well ($100 each) and you'd want maybe 3 or 4 300w heaters at say $30, plus protectors (when they get big, they can smash glass heaters). You could do it all on a budget if you DIY'd, but for a turn-key system, the above would be the way I'd do it.

Give them freshly hatched brine shrimp (or decapsulated brine shrimp if they'll take them) You can almost watch them grow. Other options are microworms, daphnia, etc.

Like Alanmin, I've filled tanks the next day. 24 hours seems about right, as long as the silicon isn't too thick, or very large.

Like you, I would think it's a faulty tap. The fact that it drips when it's under pressure from the tank head, but doesn't when the pump is running and sucking water from the intake pipe, seems fairly conclusive. Contact your LFS, the'll order it in from kongs, part # is 10763N, and will be maybe $8 each I'd say. That should shut it up ;-)

I did that once, a long long time ago, (in a galaxy far far away!) with a 5' light fitting... was great until I dropped it on the table in my old man's workshop, and got glass down my gumboot, which embedded itself in my foot :oops:

All good advice. But it has to be said (as I'm a safety and compliance officer at work) unplug the thing first! If you'd rather not do it, Sharn, I could change them for you.

I haven't, but what a fantastic idea!

I hear loud and clear about the uv steriliser. We found the same with our six foot and cf1200. The only thing I can think of is that there is a small leak in the intake piping, thereby creating a venturi and sucking small bubbles of air in. You might think that if there was a leak in the pipework before the filter, that water would leak out but that would depend on the water head on the pipework. I guess the best way to look for it would be to unplug the filter, close the inlet tap and run a very dry cloth or piece of paper along the tubing, particularly around any joins and around your uv unit (if it's on the intake side), as the o-rings on ours had a slight leak as we had not vaselined them. But my gut says that air is getting in somewhere in the intake pipework...

Hi Phoenixmoor, great to have you along. I'm a tropical person myself, but I love the look of moors. Keep us posted with how you go with your tanks (as one is never enough!)

pedigree Fluval or ehiem

The rats are about the same size. I think the'd enjoy a fur-flavoured snack. Give him three months or so and he'll be a rat-killing weapon. :lol:

Was going to say that!

Isn't it actually possible to breed a lion and tiger together? (BTW, have a cat, 10wk ginger kitten, "Rufus")

Agree completely. If water cant flow properly once heated, the tank won't get hot. Another thing to keep in mind is that the thermomoter can be just as inaccurate as the thermostat on the heater. IMO its a good idea to get a decent thermometer (ie a glass one, like the ones they use in school labs) or a digital one. I bought 3 $2 thermos from the LFS, one read 26, one read 27 and one read 21.