Shilo

If it's silicon, smells of vinegar and doesn't contain any anti-mould or anti- bacteria additives it's save to use.  Most will have "aquarium safe" written on the front or back. 

If it's silicon, smells of vinegar and doesn't contain any anti-mould or anti- bacteria additives it's save to use.  Most will have "aquarium safe" written on the front or back. 

The fish are healthy and not infected so don't think it is Columnaris.   But it does look like exactly like cyanobacteria (blue green algae) apart from of course its white.  The growth rate and the fact that the water quality is Ok certainly points to BGA. 
Instead of treating it as a fungus I would temporarily rehouse the fish even if it is in a plastic storage container with a air pump and syphon up as much as possible.  Lower the water level until just the tops of the plants are covered then blitz the tank with some hydrogen peroxide.  Keep the water pumping through the filter but it will mean taking some media from your good tanks to stop the tank recycling.  After a couple of yours drain the rest of the water (inc that in the filter) to get rid of the dead stuff and avoid other problems and swap out 1/2 filter media as above. Old media could be cleaned and put back into the good tanks filters. Fill the tank up again and acclimatise the fish to the new water.  
Dosing the tanks with antibiotics would be another option but I think what we used to use (starts with "e") is no longer available?  Either way treat it as a blue green algae bloom even if its not blue or green or an algae.... 
Never done this in such a radical way myself, instead I have only spot treated BGA with hydrogen peroxide but by the look of those tanks it will need more then spot treatment. 

Primes not needed, just avoid water changes and no chlorine will be added (you have no fish so water changes are needed).   Carry on adding ammonia when it drops but get a cheap heater to put into the tank.  Coldwater cycling takes a long long time but if you get the temp up to 28C it will fast track and be done in a couple of weeks.  Just bring up the temperature over a few days and bring it back down the same way once the cycling is finished.

The substrate can move from under it over time.  If its not sized to jam between the bottom of the tank and the top braces (how I did mine) then put some rocks or similar under it instead of a "fluid" substrate like gravel or sand.  
Disadvantage of jamming: There will be a small gap between the background and back of the tank.  This can cause water to stagnate because it will have no movement and if large enough trap fish or snails etc. Because the background will want to float, if gravel / sand is used on the bottom edge a gap will slowly widen at the bottom of the background and any gravel stuck behind it will mean it can't be pushed back without removing all the substrate.
Disadvantage of siliconing: Near impossible to remove again in the future without breaking the background.  But if you silicon it, you might as well do it right around so water can't seep behind the background.  This of course will make it even harder to remove without damage.

By the way, 40mm is the pipe diameter to use.  You will need to size the holes in the glass to a diameter of a bulkhead that fits a 40mm pipe.

Pipe work for sump overflow:  The larger diameter the better, but this will depend on the design of your overflow, how much room you have, and the rate of flow you want.  At the very least if going for a 2 or 3 standpipe design I would use 32mm but much more preferable would be 40mm.  
Pump size:  Depends a lot on what type of flow your fish like, and the head height it has to pump up to.  A pump which will allow you to "play" around with the flow once set up is an adjustable DC type pump.  A 9000ltr/hr Jebao DCT or similar would work if it is only pumping up from a sump under the aquarium stand.  You will probably only need to run it at 1/2 to 3/4 power but it gives more options if required and the cost isn't much different then a lower powered model.
 

Drat, now have to clean the blood stains of the brick wall from banging my head.
"You can actually add all the fish at once if you do enough water changes and I will bet a dollar to a proverbial that the fish will be better off than swimming in detergent regardless of the concentration"  Which is why it is called a FISHLESS cycle - there is no fish to swim in it.  Water changes are still done when using ammonia and the speed of setting up the tank is the same fishless or with fish.  Only seeding with matured media speeds things up (which I think the OP has done, thus 2 weeks instead of 2 months).
Apart from pointing out a con of fish addition to cycle I have not said fishless cycling using ammonia is the best way.  It all depends on the individuals requirements and tank set up, planned fish what is best for them.  
But the OP was not asking for advice on the best way to cycle, she was wanting advise on whether or not her tank has cycled.  I just advised a way for her to do that (checking with an ammonia dose), your advice to her is?
 

Not harmful, just unsightly if in abundance.  To control try either dimming the lights a bit (if they can be dimmed) or shorten the time they are on by a couple of hours per day.  Also get a phosphate test kit and see if the levels are high.
Your plants will out compete algae for food and light but if there is any excess that the plants don't use then the algae will grab it and grow.  An aquarium is all about balance and too much light &/or nutrients will feed the algae, too little and there is not enough for the plants to grow.  Finding that balance can be just a matter of trial and error. 
I also take it you haven't done a water change since you are still cycling?  If so then the phosphate level will be high from all the rotting food over the last couple of weeks and a few simple partial water changes over a period of a week maybe all it needs. Bacteria doesn't get rid of phosphate like they do ammonia and algae loves it so will thrive on any excess the plants don't use.

Nothing to worry about and perfectly natural.  Remember you are building a complete & self contained ecosystem in your tank, and every ecosystem needs fungi to break down waste and algae to power it.
The stuff on the food is just natural fungi whose spores are always in any air or water.  Its currently breaking down the food into ammonia and nutrients that the good bacteria you want in your system will feed on.  Once the cycle is finished just syphon up any remaining bits before adding fish, until then don't worry about it.  You will never get rid of fungi in the tank since  the spores are floating around in the air and it won't hurt your fish unless they are extremely stressed or injured.
If the brown stuff from the wood is powdery when you scrap it off in the water then its just Diatoms (a form of algae).  Diatoms have a shell made of the silica that is dissolving from the sand and rocks in the tank.  They hit all new tanks and will last until all the dissolved silica is used up, water changes help but will still take a few months before the population is small enough to not matter.  You should see my tank at the moment!  Have to scrub the rocks and wood every week followed by a major water change to keep it under control.  But its only temporary.
 White stuff on the wood is also normal in a new tank.  It too will disappear soon.

Nothing to worry about and perfectly natural.  Remember you are building a complete & self contained ecosystem in your tank, and every ecosystem needs fungi to break down waste and algae to power it.
The stuff on the food is just natural fungi whose spores are always in any air or water.  Its currently breaking down the food into ammonia and nutrients that the good bacteria you want in your system will feed on.  Once the cycle is finished just syphon up any remaining bits before adding fish, until then don't worry about it.  You will never get rid of fungi in the tank since  the spores are floating around in the air and it won't hurt your fish unless they are extremely stressed or injured.
If the brown stuff from the wood is powdery when you scrap it off in the water then its just Diatoms (a form of algae).  Diatoms have a shell made of the silica that is dissolving from the sand and rocks in the tank.  They hit all new tanks and will last until all the dissolved silica is used up, water changes help but will still take a few months before the population is small enough to not matter.  You should see my tank at the moment!  Have to scrub the rocks and wood every week followed by a major water change to keep it under control.  But its only temporary.
 White stuff on the wood is also normal in a new tank.  It too will disappear soon.

You might be surprised how fast the bullies can get out of the way from a GK, they are cheeky, curious and will push the limits but know when to scram (they remind me of hyperactive kids up to no good!).  Still reckon with enough hides for them the GK will learn not to waste its time - at least mines lazy enough not to, it even waits to take food from my fingers instead of chasing drifting food in the tank (I think he's trained me instead of the other way around!). Currently feeding my natives a small amount of either Repashy grub pie, tubifex, earthworms or whiteworms twice a day.  The GK much prefers the live foods & tubifex (not the best for him) but will scoff the grub pie if nothing else is on offer. 
I have seen some commercial "cages" like http://www.fish-street.com/boyu_baby_fish_isolation_hatchery but I doubt they will be big enough and will soon gunk up. I think a better idea would be to get some glass cut the inside width of your tank to partition off 1/4 of it.  If its sized to an inch below the water level then the top of it can have an overflow (weir) comb or mesh siliconed to it to allow water to flow over the partition but keep the fish to their part of the tank.  Kind of like those Beta breeding tanks. Perpex could be used instead of glass and if plastic then rocks could be used hold it up right to avoid draining the tank and siliconing in a glass partition. Just an idea.

Looks great!  Would love to do a pond in my back yard - hmm, maybe another winter project. 
Wouldn't the Hebe's be giving a lot of shade over summer and keeping temps down or is the pond cool enough anyway?  Have put Puha in my tank & its flourishing, another plant to compliment the mint and cress?

The rods are a bit heavy tackle for practising in the fish tank aren't they? 
For the pump you will need to work out the head height from the top of the water level of the sump (see below) to the height of the water in the tank.  Using this head height look at the graphs from the pump manufacturers to work out how many litres per hour certain sized pumps will put out.  Because you are pumping through a chiller I would go up a size, Also the diameter of the return pipe and the number of elbows or right angle bends produce friction which can also mean going up a size.  
If your "whitebait" are Inanga, banded or giant kokopu & your bullies are common or redfin's you won't need a strong flow and 400-500 litres per hour from your return in the tank will be good enough for a 90ltr tank.  Because of head height and friction this may mean a 1000lph is needed.  Some natives like Korao (a whitebait species), torrent fish, and some of the bullies will need more current.
A flexible option is to get a DC pump which you can adjust via its control pad to what you want and get at least double the size that you think you will need.  These are also more power efficient then the normal AC powered pumps.  I'm using a Jabeo DCS which so far has been great but there are other makes of DC pumps out there. 
I am assuming here that you are using a sump.  If you have a canister filter then just attach the canister outlet to the chillers inlet then have the chillers outlet going into the tank.  Because of the extra friction from pumping through the chiller you may find you will need to get a larger / stronger canister filter.  You want a minimum of 3x but preferably 5x or more your tanks capacity for lph flow in your tank.

Is your cold water piping copper or just hot water?  Most houses only have the hot water system on copper because its more expensive then pvc alternatives.
If your cold water is copper I still wouldn't worry about it unless you want to keep invertebrates like Ira said.  Some fish medication (Malachite Green) consist solely of copper and are used in much higher doses then you would get from water running through the pipes.  If you are worried then just run the tap for a while to flush out any sitting water in the pipes before using in the tank. The longer the water sits in contact with the copper the more will be dissolved so by running the tap you will be bringing in fresh uncontaminated water.
If you are using rain water it won't need filtration before putting in the aquarium, it will be a lot more pure then most city water supplies and you won't need to deal with chlorine.

My one from WillyP leave the redfins alone (bullies are still small <5cm). At feeding time its great fun with the bullies being more on to it then the GK and they don't hesitate swimming up to mid water to try to beat him to a nice chunky bit of food.  If its a worm then its a mad grab and dash with the GK after them 
Your mileage may vary though and a fully grown GK may be another matter.
As a side note, I introduced 5 Inanga's (most just above whitebait size) and heaps of shrimp last week.  Made the mistake of forgetting about the GK lurking under the log and he went into a feeding frenzy.  By morning I only had 3 new Inanga's, a lot less shrimp and a very fat GK.  He has left the 3 small ones alone since and they aren't hassled by him.  I think if you introduce the GK into the tank after the small fish have settled and are not swimming around panicking they will have a better chance of survival.

With the tank in the office I've had a problem of grubby finger and hand prints on the viewing glass from kids & adults pointing out fish etc.  Unfortunately the law prevents me from hitting them over the head with a baseball bat every time they do it so I had to find another answer.  After trying various glass cleaning products, 2 weeks ago I settled on C-Thru Shower Sheild and it works wonders.  Fingerprints still show but a quick wipe with a dry cloth is all that it takes to remove them.  Another advantage is that it cuts down on the amount of condensation from having a tank which can be 10C below room temperature. Expensive but a little goes a very long way and instructions says a application will last up to a month in a shower so should be longer on the outside of a tank.  It is sold to prevent water spots so it could also be used to keep a tank looking like new although I haven't used it long enough to confirm this.
  Just to clarify: I apply it to only the outside of the tank with a cloth, since there is no spray and no water comes in contact with it then there should be no potential harm to the fish. The downside is that it is a glass polish and thus can increase reflections.
There will be other products that work just as well but this is one that worked for me.  Rain-X was another but wasn't anywhere near as good.  So if you have family or guests who just can't help touching the glass then I recommend giving it a try.

With the tank in the office I've had a problem of grubby finger and hand prints on the viewing glass from kids & adults pointing out fish etc.  Unfortunately the law prevents me from hitting them over the head with a baseball bat every time they do it so I had to find another answer.  After trying various glass cleaning products, 2 weeks ago I settled on C-Thru Shower Sheild and it works wonders.  Fingerprints still show but a quick wipe with a dry cloth is all that it takes to remove them.  Another advantage is that it cuts down on the amount of condensation from having a tank which can be 10C below room temperature. Expensive but a little goes a very long way and instructions says a application will last up to a month in a shower so should be longer on the outside of a tank.  It is sold to prevent water spots so it could also be used to keep a tank looking like new although I haven't used it long enough to confirm this.
  Just to clarify: I apply it to only the outside of the tank with a cloth, since there is no spray and no water comes in contact with it then there should be no potential harm to the fish. The downside is that it is a glass polish and thus can increase reflections.
There will be other products that work just as well but this is one that worked for me.  Rain-X was another but wasn't anywhere near as good.  So if you have family or guests who just can't help touching the glass then I recommend giving it a try.

I would drop the salt as its not needed and your plants won't like it.  Salt's good for treating sick fish or preventing some disease when introducing new fish but it does nothing as a long term addition.
By the way if the pet store recommended using aquarium salt ($13 / kg) then take any further advise from them with...well.. a pinch of salt.  It doesn't have to be aquarium salt and even table salt ( < $2 a kg) is fine since the iodine and anti-caking agents added to it is at such small amounts that it will never harm the fish.

I would drop the salt as its not needed and your plants won't like it.  Salt's good for treating sick fish or preventing some disease when introducing new fish but it does nothing as a long term addition.
By the way if the pet store recommended using aquarium salt ($13 / kg) then take any further advise from them with...well.. a pinch of salt.  It doesn't have to be aquarium salt and even table salt ( < $2 a kg) is fine since the iodine and anti-caking agents added to it is at such small amounts that it will never harm the fish.

Update
Ok, its been going for 6 weeks now and there has been a few minor changes.
Pump:  I had a DCT4000 Jebao pump powering the system which worked OK but it was at full bore to get close to the flow I wanted (has to pump through a chiller) so figured a more powerful one would be better as I can turn it down to what I want and have more flexibility.  Ended up buying a DCS7000.  At full bore this is as much as the system can cope with so normally run it turned down slightly and up full when I want to flush the sand before cleaning or to give the fish a change.  The Redfins like it turned up as it gives them a chance to do a bit of surfing (swimming into the current as much as possible then letting it blow them back) 
 Background: This originally was just coated in grout and I expected PH to rise a bit but for the first few weeks it was only at 7.6 (tap water is 7.4) so was quite happy.  But then it suddenly rose to 8.4!  A few part water changes to bring it down didn't help as it was rising to 8.4 again over 24 hours.  So I whipped it out and coated it with epoxy, taking the opportunity to sprinkle pool sand in the "valley's" and black sand on the "boulders".  I was hesitant to do this at the beginning because the grout / epoxy coated water dish in my Blue Tongues enclosure eventually lifted.  So it may not last forever but at least it looks better and the PH is a steady 7.4.
Water Changer: As in the previous post the plan was to have 25ltr per day continuously flowing into the tank to avoid major water changes.  Problem was the ball valve originally fitted was not accurate enough to give this amount so replaced it with a gate valve.  It still takes a bit of fiddling to get it right but its an improvement.  Eventually I will tee off from the main water line and fit a pressure reducer and irrigation drip attachment to it.  But got to say filling and emptying the tank is a breeze with only turning a couple of valves on and off.
Lights: The RBG strip light I had used worked OK until last week.  The only problems it had was that it wasn't bright enough to see into the recesses of the tank and the camp kids discovered where I stashed the remote and kept flicking it to colour changing mode for a fish disco!   Last week it stopped working so got a proper aquarium LED from Fish2Water - big improvement!
Fish:  The Giant Kokopu caused a fair amount of stress by not eating.  It would go for the food but quickly spit it out again, tried feeding it everything I could think of to no avail.  After a month I noticed its body was wasting away but the stomach was still fat so treated it for worms.  Did the trick as now its simply a pig and has put on heaps of condition over the last couple of weeks.  Even starting to teach it to feed from my hand.  
The tank is still very lightly stocked.  Over the last few weeks I have added 2x female Redfin Bullies ( had forgotten how much personality they have), 3 Inanga's (2 adults and a whitebait size one which is growing).  The Inanga's will probably be GK food eventually but since they only live for a few years I'm hoping they live out their life span before the GK is big enough to snack on them.  Also got a very light brown Koura who is missing its claws when I got it so it must have been attacked by an eel or more likely a trout at some stage.  Will continue to slowly add stock over the next month as I explore the streams around here.

 

Update
Ok, its been going for 6 weeks now and there has been a few minor changes.
Pump:  I had a DCT4000 Jebao pump powering the system which worked OK but it was at full bore to get close to the flow I wanted (has to pump through a chiller) so figured a more powerful one would be better as I can turn it down to what I want and have more flexibility.  Ended up buying a DCS7000.  At full bore this is as much as the system can cope with so normally run it turned down slightly and up full when I want to flush the sand before cleaning or to give the fish a change.  The Redfins like it turned up as it gives them a chance to do a bit of surfing (swimming into the current as much as possible then letting it blow them back) 
 Background: This originally was just coated in grout and I expected PH to rise a bit but for the first few weeks it was only at 7.6 (tap water is 7.4) so was quite happy.  But then it suddenly rose to 8.4!  A few part water changes to bring it down didn't help as it was rising to 8.4 again over 24 hours.  So I whipped it out and coated it with epoxy, taking the opportunity to sprinkle pool sand in the "valley's" and black sand on the "boulders".  I was hesitant to do this at the beginning because the grout / epoxy coated water dish in my Blue Tongues enclosure eventually lifted.  So it may not last forever but at least it looks better and the PH is a steady 7.4.
Water Changer: As in the previous post the plan was to have 25ltr per day continuously flowing into the tank to avoid major water changes.  Problem was the ball valve originally fitted was not accurate enough to give this amount so replaced it with a gate valve.  It still takes a bit of fiddling to get it right but its an improvement.  Eventually I will tee off from the main water line and fit a pressure reducer and irrigation drip attachment to it.  But got to say filling and emptying the tank is a breeze with only turning a couple of valves on and off.
Lights: The RBG strip light I had used worked OK until last week.  The only problems it had was that it wasn't bright enough to see into the recesses of the tank and the camp kids discovered where I stashed the remote and kept flicking it to colour changing mode for a fish disco!   Last week it stopped working so got a proper aquarium LED from Fish2Water - big improvement!
Fish:  The Giant Kokopu caused a fair amount of stress by not eating.  It would go for the food but quickly spit it out again, tried feeding it everything I could think of to no avail.  After a month I noticed its body was wasting away but the stomach was still fat so treated it for worms.  Did the trick as now its simply a pig and has put on heaps of condition over the last couple of weeks.  Even starting to teach it to feed from my hand.  
The tank is still very lightly stocked.  Over the last few weeks I have added 2x female Redfin Bullies ( had forgotten how much personality they have), 3 Inanga's (2 adults and a whitebait size one which is growing).  The Inanga's will probably be GK food eventually but since they only live for a few years I'm hoping they live out their life span before the GK is big enough to snack on them.  Also got a very light brown Koura who is missing its claws when I got it so it must have been attacked by an eel or more likely a trout at some stage.  Will continue to slowly add stock over the next month as I explore the streams around here.

 

Update
Ok, its been going for 6 weeks now and there has been a few minor changes.
Pump:  I had a DCT4000 Jebao pump powering the system which worked OK but it was at full bore to get close to the flow I wanted (has to pump through a chiller) so figured a more powerful one would be better as I can turn it down to what I want and have more flexibility.  Ended up buying a DCS7000.  At full bore this is as much as the system can cope with so normally run it turned down slightly and up full when I want to flush the sand before cleaning or to give the fish a change.  The Redfins like it turned up as it gives them a chance to do a bit of surfing (swimming into the current as much as possible then letting it blow them back) 
 Background: This originally was just coated in grout and I expected PH to rise a bit but for the first few weeks it was only at 7.6 (tap water is 7.4) so was quite happy.  But then it suddenly rose to 8.4!  A few part water changes to bring it down didn't help as it was rising to 8.4 again over 24 hours.  So I whipped it out and coated it with epoxy, taking the opportunity to sprinkle pool sand in the "valley's" and black sand on the "boulders".  I was hesitant to do this at the beginning because the grout / epoxy coated water dish in my Blue Tongues enclosure eventually lifted.  So it may not last forever but at least it looks better and the PH is a steady 7.4.
Water Changer: As in the previous post the plan was to have 25ltr per day continuously flowing into the tank to avoid major water changes.  Problem was the ball valve originally fitted was not accurate enough to give this amount so replaced it with a gate valve.  It still takes a bit of fiddling to get it right but its an improvement.  Eventually I will tee off from the main water line and fit a pressure reducer and irrigation drip attachment to it.  But got to say filling and emptying the tank is a breeze with only turning a couple of valves on and off.
Lights: The RBG strip light I had used worked OK until last week.  The only problems it had was that it wasn't bright enough to see into the recesses of the tank and the camp kids discovered where I stashed the remote and kept flicking it to colour changing mode for a fish disco!   Last week it stopped working so got a proper aquarium LED from Fish2Water - big improvement!
Fish:  The Giant Kokopu caused a fair amount of stress by not eating.  It would go for the food but quickly spit it out again, tried feeding it everything I could think of to no avail.  After a month I noticed its body was wasting away but the stomach was still fat so treated it for worms.  Did the trick as now its simply a pig and has put on heaps of condition over the last couple of weeks.  Even starting to teach it to feed from my hand.  
The tank is still very lightly stocked.  Over the last few weeks I have added 2x female Redfin Bullies ( had forgotten how much personality they have), 3 Inanga's (2 adults and a whitebait size one which is growing).  The Inanga's will probably be GK food eventually but since they only live for a few years I'm hoping they live out their life span before the GK is big enough to snack on them.  Also got a very light brown Koura who is missing its claws when I got it so it must have been attacked by an eel or more likely a trout at some stage.  Will continue to slowly add stock over the next month as I explore the streams around here.

 

Update
Ok, its been going for 6 weeks now and there has been a few minor changes.
Pump:  I had a DCT4000 Jebao pump powering the system which worked OK but it was at full bore to get close to the flow I wanted (has to pump through a chiller) so figured a more powerful one would be better as I can turn it down to what I want and have more flexibility.  Ended up buying a DCS7000.  At full bore this is as much as the system can cope with so normally run it turned down slightly and up full when I want to flush the sand before cleaning or to give the fish a change.  The Redfins like it turned up as it gives them a chance to do a bit of surfing (swimming into the current as much as possible then letting it blow them back) 
 Background: This originally was just coated in grout and I expected PH to rise a bit but for the first few weeks it was only at 7.6 (tap water is 7.4) so was quite happy.  But then it suddenly rose to 8.4!  A few part water changes to bring it down didn't help as it was rising to 8.4 again over 24 hours.  So I whipped it out and coated it with epoxy, taking the opportunity to sprinkle pool sand in the "valley's" and black sand on the "boulders".  I was hesitant to do this at the beginning because the grout / epoxy coated water dish in my Blue Tongues enclosure eventually lifted.  So it may not last forever but at least it looks better and the PH is a steady 7.4.
Water Changer: As in the previous post the plan was to have 25ltr per day continuously flowing into the tank to avoid major water changes.  Problem was the ball valve originally fitted was not accurate enough to give this amount so replaced it with a gate valve.  It still takes a bit of fiddling to get it right but its an improvement.  Eventually I will tee off from the main water line and fit a pressure reducer and irrigation drip attachment to it.  But got to say filling and emptying the tank is a breeze with only turning a couple of valves on and off.
Lights: The RBG strip light I had used worked OK until last week.  The only problems it had was that it wasn't bright enough to see into the recesses of the tank and the camp kids discovered where I stashed the remote and kept flicking it to colour changing mode for a fish disco!   Last week it stopped working so got a proper aquarium LED from Fish2Water - big improvement!
Fish:  The Giant Kokopu caused a fair amount of stress by not eating.  It would go for the food but quickly spit it out again, tried feeding it everything I could think of to no avail.  After a month I noticed its body was wasting away but the stomach was still fat so treated it for worms.  Did the trick as now its simply a pig and has put on heaps of condition over the last couple of weeks.  Even starting to teach it to feed from my hand.  
The tank is still very lightly stocked.  Over the last few weeks I have added 2x female Redfin Bullies ( had forgotten how much personality they have), 3 Inanga's (2 adults and a whitebait size one which is growing).  The Inanga's will probably be GK food eventually but since they only live for a few years I'm hoping they live out their life span before the GK is big enough to snack on them.  Also got a very light brown Koura who is missing its claws when I got it so it must have been attacked by an eel or more likely a trout at some stage.  Will continue to slowly add stock over the next month as I explore the streams around here.

 

Time for an update.
Cycling
Well this didn't go as planned.  Things weren't happening at 14-15C so threw in a couple of heaters in the sump to kick the cycle off.  3 weeks later and I was topping up the ammonia every few days and recording some Nitrites and some Nitrates but I never experienced any of the spikes in the Nitrites nor the ammonia disappearing in a day that I had read about.  Decided it wasn't a problem since the fishless cycling process is designed for a tank that is going to go from zero to 100% stocked whilst I would be adding the odd fish now and again over a few months and the testing verified there was at least some bacteria at work.
Plants
Can't have any submerged plants if I want a Koura but  was really taken the idea of Potho's and other similar plants with just their roots in the water.  Shelter for the fish plus Nitrate removal.  Wanting to keep with the native theme I did a bit of googling both with the computer and my eyes in the bush and figured that a good plant to use is the native bergonia.  It likes damp low light areas and is very common around here on stream banks.  I put a trial piece in before I started cycling and it started to do well but got knocked back when I heated up the water.  Despite this there are small leaves and rootlets appearing so now the temperatures dropped again I'm hoping it will continue to grow.  Once its grown up to the top of the canopy I will remove one of the inserts I pre-made and let it grow out of the top. The canopy lights are strong enough that the leaves have lost their red colour and turned green.
Also found some moss in a stream that was both above and below the water so transplanted some of that around the top of the main log. And off course because its a native tank I had to add the compulsory Ponga leaf. 
Fish
Today I drove the 3 hours to Auckland and picked up Willyp123's Giant Kokopu.  Well worth the trip as it not only saves months of wading in streams looking for one but since it is a captive bred GK it means I am not decreasing the wild population.  He survived the trip well in a 50ltr plastic storage container with the top taped on tight.  After a couple of hours in the container having the tank water added to acclimatise him he went into the tank and is now happily exploring his new home.