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Everything posted by Shilo

  1. Haven't tried it but would assume that if a fry swims against the protection (mesh?) the current could still be strong enough to hold them there. Personally I would either put a large mesh cage over the whole pump to keep the fry away from the intake current or use a mesh "baffle" to separate an area from the pump.
  2. Yup, Homebrand with the red on the label (still got 2/3rds of it left on the shelf). The cheapest I could find, figured the cheaper it was the less other chemicals would have been added since it would cost the manufacturer.
  3. As a side note: I used cloudy ammonia to cycle mine a few years ago. The amount of surfactant added is very minimal and didn't effect the process, 100% water change before adding fish (which should be done anyway) and not a problem. If the food doesn't work, give it a try. A lot of what you read are from the over cautious who never tried it and are just repeating what they read from others who have also never tried it. When doing research I didn't find one case where somebody used cloudy ammonia and experienced adverse effects because of it.
  4. Shilo

    Heater problem

    Could always take the heater out and try it in a bucket of water in the garage or somewhere. Leave it on for a few hours set to 26C and then take a reading with the thermometer. Use another thermometer for a 2nd reading just in case. This way it removes the environment (house temperature) from the equation and checks the calibration of the heater. Might narrow the problem down a bit.
  5. Shilo

    Heater problem

    Have you tried a different thermometer? The tank temp could really be 25C but the thermometer is broken and stuck on 29.5C.
  6. They are a powerful fish and can jump. May never happen but since they have the ability it would be taking a risk, all they need would be a scare (mine jumped from a quarantine tank once).
  7. Shouldn't matter if it is raw, cooked or frozen, once it starts to rot the ammonia will start to build up. You are not introducing bacteria with the "shrimp" as its naturally in the air - you are introducing food for it. Instead of going on how much, get a measuring kit (API Master test kit or similar) as you will need this to know if the tank is cycling. Throw in a couple of prawns or fish pieces and use the kit to measure how much ammonia is in the water - you want up to 4ppm. If after a few days of adding the shrimp or fish pieces etc there is not enough ammonia then throw in another bit, too much take some out and do a small water change. Over 4ppm and the cycle may stall because the excess ammonia will kill off the bacteria. Continue until the nitrites show then continue until both the nitrites and the ammonia go from 2ppm to 0 within 24hrs and you have nitrates showing. Water change then stock the tank with fish. The kit will show you how much to add and how long things are taking - anything else is just blind guess work. An alternative to using rotting fish is to use bottled ammonia from the supermarket (even cloudy ammonia works). Takes some of the guess work out of it. By the way, don't forget to use use water without chlorine or at least add prime when doing a cycle.
  8. Duckweed. Tomorrow the numbers would have doubled, and the next day doubled again..... Some fish like gold fish eat it but yup removing every last bit is the only way to go. It doesn't like too much surface movement so the return aimed at the surface etc will help but removing is the only sure way (every bit as even 1 leaf will mean it returns with a vengeance).
  9. Think dilution. The more diluted the ammonia is the safer for the fish. A small amount of ammonia in the water (below 1ppm) won't harm the fish and the bacteria population in the filter will eventually grow enough to deal with this amount. When this happens another fish can be added to increase the amount of waste etc, the ammonia levels rise again then time is needed for the bacteria population growth to catch up to this level and so on. Advantage: you get to have life in your tank straight away. Disadvantage: You have to keep a constant eye on the ammonia then nitrite levels (the fishes life is at stake) and it takes longer to get a fully stocked tank. With a fishless cycle you can get the ammonia level up to 4ppm so more food for the bacteria = faster bacteria population growth = faster cycle = fully stocked tank sooner. I won't say " a couple of small clowns in a 140L is Ok" because it all depends on whats considered small and how fast the bacteria population grows (depends on filter system, water parameters) etc. Every tank & situation is different. Instead if you go this route then test 2x a day and if the ammonia then the nitrite levels get near 1ppm do a water change. Keep doing this until the tank is fully stocked. This is why the fishless cycle is more forgiving and safer for a beginner. Throwing a couple of fish in a tank, waiting a few weeks then throwing in the rest may work out Ok for you, but there is a good chance it won't.
  10. Agree there is nothing cruel about it if the parameters are kept within a healthy range of the fish in the tank. It used to be the only way to cycle, although always better to use media from an existing tank if possible. But once the tank has been cycled for the 2 fish, additional fish have to be added slowly to allow the bacteria numbers to catch up with the load. If somebody went from just cycling with 2 small fish to fully stocking the tank there will be a ammonia spike then nitrite spike until the bacteria numbers increase enough. Because of this in my opinion it takes longer and there is more danger of mistakes being made by a beginner that can effect the fish. By using the fishless cycle with allowing fish food etc to rot or by adding ammonia (more controllable) means the tank can be cycled up to a full bio-load and the tank fully stocked straight away.
  11. Shilo


    They are direct China and with a Aust warehouse, depends on what is in stock in Aust where it gets sent from but still arrive within a week or 2. You can also get the same makes here in NZ but when I was first looking I couldn't find a local supplier. Because I don't live close to a city it is just as easy ordering online from overseas for things I'm not in a hurry for. Some of their products have a drop down to select what sort of plug (Aus/NZ etc) but others need an china / Nz adaptor. China is 220v so everything there works here.
  12. Bacteria in a bottle like Seachem Stability? It works to speed up the cycle but I personally wouldn't stock the tank straight away, might work for some but if anything is wrong and the bacteria doesn't establish fast enough to cope with the instant large amount of fish waste then there would be problems. Instead I suggest using it as per directions but still do a fishless cycle (feeding with ammonia or fish food etc) until the ammonia and nitrites have disappeared and there are Nitrates showing. I used it when I set up my current tank as because it is cold water was taking a long time to cycle, stability seemed to speed things up more. I reckon it would cut the time in half but hesitant about using it for instant stocking.
  13. Shilo


    Only on the pulse cycle and then its faint, in the vid he has it on a pulse cycle but I wouldn't say I could hear mine 4m away. My tank is large for it so keep it on full blast and a constant cycle and don't hear anything. As per build quality - I have 2 Jabeo DC pumps and this wavemaker and haven't had any problems with them at all. I find the build quality to be excellent, one pump and the wavemaker have been running constantly for nearly 3 years now (other pump is a spare - hospital tank etc use). Like any product your mileage may vary though. Another option that looks even better is the new Coral Box wave maker. Haven't tried it but like its low profile and how it distributes the water: https://www.fish-street.com/coral-box-rn-1-reverse-nano-pump
  14. Shilo


    I have a Jebao SW-4. Small profile and DC so controllable. Completely silent if used in the constant mode but very slight on/off hum if used in the pulse mode. My tank is a 500ltr (freshwater) and it still moves the water well over 3/4 of the length.
  15. Search for "Ethanol" instead of alcohol (same thing). Denatured Ethanol contains a small % of methonal so its not fit for consumption but fine for tinctures etc. A quick google search brought up this: https://www.purenature.co.nz/shop/Cosmetic+Ingredients/Solvents/Ethanol+-+Denatured%3Fsku=ETHA.html
  16. Thus the use of mylar or similar reflective surface. The pro's of using tubes should be that more LED's per m2 could be fitted thus a higher wattage light system. If aluminium tube is used heat could be easily dissipated and by using dim able LED strips then the user can set it from much more then needed to almost nothing and if dimmed down LED's will last longer. Have only done a diy light like you have but if I was going to do one again I would wrap a tube. Just a lot tighter then the one in the vid to fit in more LED's.
  17. Shilo

    Nosy As Overflow

    Not experienced with commercial systems (only diy ones), but when quietening down overflows the best way to think of it is that the air causes the noise and not the water. You will only get noise where the water interacts with air so track down where the air is and you can make it quieter. First thing to look at is there should be a small hole in the top of tube 1. If it is too small then the siphon won't restart but if too big it sucks in too much air and creates noise, there might be a way of adjusting it?. Secondly look where pipe 3 enters the sump. The end of the tube should be below the water line of the sump. If it is above then of course it will splash like a waterfall. Could be something simple as not a high enough water level in the sump, or you might be able to extend the tube down further. EDIT: Just had a look at the instruction manual for that system thinking that a major manufacturer couldn't be stupid enough to have the down pipe to short in the sump, but YUP...... Page 4 of the manual shows the pipe in the filter sock ending quite distance above the divide that the water flows over. Find another short section of pvc pipe or large diameter hose and extend it down, doesn't matter if its only an inch above the bottom of the sock but you want it under the water.
  18. Or depending on the design of the hood if any, spiral around a pvc tube then line the hood with Mylar. This would allow for more led's in the space, avoid the de-sticking issue and the mylar will reflect all the light from the top of the tubes back down (could just paint white but mylar is more reflective). Could even add more then one tube if set up like a double fluorescent light. Disadvantage is that the hood would have to be 10-15cm high. Not my idea but think Joey's way could be improved upon:
  19. Could be a sponge especially if it doesn't have a hard "rock" centre. Browse through this - might be able to identify it: https://www.niwa.co.nz/static/web/MarineIdentificationGuidesandFactSheets/Splendid_Sponges_Version_2-0_2017.pdf
  20. They are available online from NZ fish stores for example: http://www.hollywoodfishfarm.co.nz/product/aqua-one-tropical-led-t8-light-tube/ Personally I wouldn't buy the tubes online - risk of courier damage is too much. But your LFS would have a good selection. Just take one of each size old ones in or measure the length so you know what size. If you know what wattage the old tubes are you can use this as well as certain watts are normally a certain size. Then you have to decide what spectrum to get (ie for plants, for display, marine etc). If you don't have a LFS then Bunnings & Mitre 10 sell them, they are just not aquarium specific so won't have the colour spectrum for ultimate plant growth. Get Cool White not Warm. This is also a much cheaper option but won't give you the plant growth or display the fish colours as well as a specific one from a LFS. There are 2 types of tubes: T8 and T5. You will know which one your cover takes since T5 has a much smaller diameter then a T8.
  21. Those 2 round "knobs" to the right of the middle tube and the one to the left are the starters. Change those and she'll be right again. The middle tube looks like it is close to needing to be replaced as well (has dark patches near the ends), if they are all the same age and you have plants in the tank then it would be worth replacing all 3 tubes.
  22. What type of light is it? If it is a fluorescent tube then as livingart said it would be the starter (a stubby white cylinder that is plugged into the housing). Turn of power, twist it out and take to an electrical supplier or hardware store for a replacement. https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/hpm-fluorescent-starter-4-to-65-watt-white/p/103019
  23. Repair. Get some glass cut for a Eurobrace and it will be a simple job of siliconing it on. You won't even need to remove the fish, just lower the water level a bit for the couple days while it drys. If the centre brace didn't last it is no use doing another one, a Eurobrace should be much stronger as it supports more of the glass edges. Of course on the other hand this is the perfect excuse to get a larger tank!
  24. Unfortunately "Honeycomb" is just a marketing brand like "Dragonstone" so tells you nothing. It all depends on what minerals its made off, the vast majority of any rock would be safe in the tank, the main exception is limestone. Limestone will increase your PH because it is so alkaline. If you can get a bit test it with some sort of acid, even strong vinegar will work. If it bubbles it will effect the PH levels. There are no minerals that I know off that are acid and will lower the PH (this is normally organics like wood, leaves etc).
  25. Depends if you want the stand to follow the curve of the tank front or not. Following the curve will look good but be much harder to do. Building the stand as a rectangle is the easiest way. You don't need to go overboard but remember 850-900kg need to be supported. Reckon it can be done with 2 by 4's but double up them at the corners and in the middle supports. When planning it out try to make sure the weight is supported by the wood and not any nails, bolts or screws etc and put some angled or horizontal wood between any verticals in the back and side to remove any risk of the stand collapsing sideways.
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