Tanksman

It doesn't look as good as this FX5 tho. And with all those baskets full in the pro 3 I wonder if it really does do 1700 litres an hour. With a power consumption of just 30w I doubt if it gets above 1000.

This is an interesting page - sorry bout the lingo - apparently a page from Ad Konings book "Malawi cichlids in their natural habitat". Certainly shows a variety of strains exist in this species. http://www.malawi.cichlids.ru/articles/art051.shtml This thread which was along the same lines as this one seems to be deathly silent since the above link was posted

Maybe a bit of vinegar? or vodka

LOL I have visions of you hanging upside down off the verandah snapping pics Good advice from suphew.

Shame about the leaks - be sorted soon. Great pics BTW. On the last one was the camera mounted on the boat, train or helicopter?

Don't know if they have bunnings in Nova Scotia

You might have to much air going in. You might need a little tap thingee to reduce the airflow. or The airstone is not sitting in the neck of the gravel cleaner is it stopping the air getting through the neck? Only other thing I can think of is that the neck of the gravel cleaner is too narrow (very unlikely) or more likely that the gravel cleaner tube has too large a diameter which is affecting it. It looks a lot bigger diameter than the undergravel lift tubes which the sydney cichlid page uses. But neither of these things should be an issue.

Not all fish would enjoy salt. Be careful with salt especially around discus, apistos and other finicky fish from the amazon that require soft water. Salt will increase the Gh of the water.

Thanks lynda I want to know whether they will keep picking on each other if I get some more. They don't seem to bother any other fish just keep eating each others fins. I might have to send them to finishing school to learn some manners

I had a goldfish who survived my attempts to kill it (cycling) when I first set up my cold water tank. When I setup my first tropical tank he was just chucked in as the temp went up to above 25. He puffed a bit and looked a bit uncomfortable for a few days I guess but he was fine. He would still be there but I didn't like him eating all the small fish so he went to a pond. The best part was his snail destroying qualities. I would keep away from Japanese rush.

The eggs should have no chance of coming out with the bubbles as they are contained in the middle section. But yeah you don't want to much flow through it that the eggs end up scrambled.

This is a great contraption. On yours is the top of the complete setup below the water level in the tank? It simply is designed to draw water from the bottom, through the egg section, and out the top. It will only work if the top is positioned at best a couple of mm above the water level but would work best if the top is below the water level. You definitely don't want the bubbler below the egg section. Also without the exhaust piece it may not work as well. I suggest if you can't get this piece you heat the top part of your tumbler and crimp it so it has a narrow neck to discourage any water sneaking in from the top as opposed to the bottom. Clear as mud?

Yeah it's hard to put into words Oh so it's a clip on job? Might have to have a workaround like suphew suggested. Unless you took to it with a die? I am sure I could wreck it for you Maybe a plastic specialist might be able to convert the hose connection piece into a threaded male?

It is the intake side you don't want to choke. restricting the outlet side is OK. Does the LP7 look like this? http://www.azponds.com/images/pumps/laguna_pump.jpg If so does that hose connection fitting unscrew revealing a male thread moulded from the pump? or is the hose fitting part of the mould? It looks like it comes off meaning you could use a pvc fitting that has a female fitting off the pump thread.

The flax type plant sounds like Japanese rush. From what I have heard this is usually grown hydroponically for the japanese cut flower market and any surplus is dumped in the aquarium market. It does not do well in the aquarium and is more than likely breaking down in your tank contributing to high nitrates. Chuck it in the bin.

You can use a mix of hansen fittings and Marley pressure pipe no probs 8mm bigger sounds OK. be safer at 10 by the time you allow for thread tho. There is plenty of sealing capacity on the hansen tank fittings, silicone just adds to the safety. Hansen fittings and alcathene are pretty good at handling pressure however I would only use the tank valve and the next fitting is a Marley (the white stuff that you have to glue) There are fittings that enable you to transfer from the hansen back to pressure pipe which is what you want to be using in the bulk of your plumbing - primarily as it looks tidier than the old cockies alcathene pipe. But alcathene would be up for the job as well. With the Marley plumbing you must get it set up how you want it first go as it is glued and rigid. The only way to change it is to buy new plumbing or the fittings you need to make modifications.

Hi caper I have two tiger barbs - One I just got for my other lonely little psychiatric barb. The poor wee thing is nearly finless as the other fat barb is having his fins for snacks all day. I hope they grow back :oops: Does anyone know If there are six barbs will that be enough to stop this attacks? or should I just feed these two to my bad jewel? :oops: I'm glad your fish is getting better - all the fins I've seen have grown back if needs be. Do you think the melafix did the trick then?

Me to Caper. Do you use show posts since last visit? Sometimes it seems to get a bit forgetful about when I was last here I think? We are such a busy site it just forgets maybe

Good on ya neill Me too I started sunday, I should say my freind and I. Unfortunately this tank is not at my house so I cannot keep as close an eye on it as I would like which is possibly how it got hold in the first place. I still see it every few days and my freind is getting keener by the day. It is harsh this cyanobacter stuff. It is the only explanation I have that the Kribs in there have not spawned in 4 months unless they are getting too old. First of all I got serious and "peeled" off as much of the horrid green gunge as I could. I am going to do this a few more times while the vodka is "treating things" Fins crossed How are you getting along Pinsara.

Any clear silicone should be allright to do the top braces on your tank so it's an added bonus it's safe for aquariums. I heard a good idea recently where someone silcones a marble (or something like that) to the middle of the removable glass lids. This makes getting them on and off easier. I have broken to many lids :oops: Next time I'm playing with silicone might give it a go.

But only down to the concentration in the environment. Begs the question why is there so much CO2 in some water to treatment plants (is this NZ?)... Industrial waste? excessive organic waste? Ewwww.

Did your spray bar come with your Fluval's? Mine didn't so lucky you. Spraybars don't need to be 1 or 2 inches above the water - reposition them so it is under water a few inches. The only downside is that you will be able to see it in the tank. Be careful with that CO2 - keep a close eye on your fish especially first thing in the morning before the lights come on. You don't want dead fish and healthy plants!

Hi Djay Your tank holds = 0.76*0.40*0.40 = 0.1216 * 1000 = 120 litres approx it's probably closer to 100 litres by the time glass thickness and decorations and the fact that they usually aren't filled to overflowing. As to what type of filter - Any filter that turns over more than 400 litres an hour should be OK for your tank. Be better with a capacity of 600 - 800 litres an hour tho. Your heater should be around 150 w but 100w or 200w will work fine. Thats some of your questions answered - stick around I'm sure you'll learn heaps more

Are you both going to be there. Would be worth coming to see that