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Show us your leos!!


reuben.a

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Your referencing a wiki that anyone can alter? the photos i have provided are from John Mack and Ron Tremper.

Your one on trade me currently (Mucky05) has heaps of black how can you say it is going to end up being a hi yellow when the colour fades? Not to mention its being sold as a male simply because you incubated it for one.

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Some are not aware that temperature actually plays a significant role in the brightness of a leopard geckos colors. It has been shown that geckos incubated at lower temperatures will be darker than those incubated at higher temperatures. This offers breeders the ability to determine the intensity of the colors of their offspring.

Since geckos incubated at lower temperatures are typically darker compared to their counterparts incubated at higher temperatures, it goes to reason that males are typically brighter than females. This has changed over the years however as the knowledge of temperature effects on color has made its rounds.

so lower temps means less colour = darker so not as bright i have played with hot females cool females everything in between

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Two questions:

1 What is the use of darker colours if it is only temporary and they all end up the same?

2 Have you in your incubation temperatures produced super females and who bought them thinking they would breed from them?

The fading of the black bands occurs naturally as they mature to adult patterns.

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i guess it all comes down to personal preference. i can name hundreds of good things about dragonz leos but then i can also say the same about alans. both are different but both still sit under the same category as a "high yellow". no need to argue about it i reckon as they are all stunning and a lot of hard work has clearly gone in to both. at the end of the day, dont buy it if its not what your after :thup:

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You can use any sort of insulated container that is big enough for what you want to incubate. You need a source of heat and an accurate thermometer and thermostat. The hysteresis need to be about 0.5 degrees which means you need a fairly accurate thermostat. If you use an old fridge or similar you may need a fan to even out the heat a bit. One for males and one for females is good as well. I have two, each with 0.5 deg hysteresis and an electronic thermometer accurate to 0.1 deg C. One has a fan but I don't use it.

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I think both would be suitable for using on enclosures but the hysteresis is one degree on each. By the time you get a bit of lag each side you could have temperature variations of 3-4 degrees and this could be a problem particularly when incubating for males. You may find that the cost of buying a purpose made one would be about the same as an accurate thermostat. I had a couple that got munted in the quakes that I used on aquaria and they were about $340 each. They could be set to a hystersis of 0.1 deg C.

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would that one work as well ?

I guess that answers my own question

Measure range: -40°C~+120°C

Slew range of temperature: 1°C-30°C

Resolution: 0.1°C

Accuracy: ±1°C (-50°C~70°C)

Power supply: 220V AC, 50/60Hz

Power consumption: less than 3W

Relay contact capacity: Cool(10A/250VAC);Heat(10A/250VAC)

Data retention: Yes

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