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Fish room build


camtang

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Over the course of the year I am planning on building a fish room in my garage (as some of you may already know)

On Monday I am going to be clearing out the garage as a start, it is going to be a 3 or 4 day job I suspect and I will take before and after photos.

I already have 2 questions that have been bugging me so I thought I would ask for suggestions and help so

Issue number one:I have acess to both batts and sheets of poly, what is the better of them to use to insulate? I was thinking of kkinda sandwiching in the pink batts between poly. so poly nailed to the frame work on each side and batts in the midle. would this be most effective?

Issue number two: The garage has a window, do I fully remove the window? get it replaced with double glazed joinery( I am a joiner by trade so will only need to pay for materials) I am heating via a heat pump courtasy of Caryl :bow: (many thanks once again) so will need to keep a hole for that to fit into. If I was to go to DG, is a opening window a smart idea or could that just add extra unwanted drafts?

Thank you all for now

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I think windows are only useful if you are growing plants and if the light is from above. The more insulation you put in the better but I would look at trying to make the wall linings more serviceable than polystyrene. My advice would be to instal as much volume of water as possible as it acts as a heat sink.

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you could make up panels of batts and polystyrene cutting strips of poly the thickness of the batts and gluing it to sheets of poly like a joist in a wall

Ive read on here its best to cover the poly with polythene sheeting so it cant get moisture into it . you could use clear if you didnt like the black . as for the window if your not going to use it for the heat pump just cover it up with batts and poly

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I would look at trying to make the wall linings more serviceable than polystyrene. My advice would be to instal as much volume of water as possible as it acts as a heat sink.

What do you mean by more servicable? and as much water volume meaning as many tanks in the space as possible?

I like the idea of glueing them together like that, I will look into that. if not using poly on the inside what would be the best room liner?

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I mean that the humidity is usually pretty high and polystyrene is likely to go mouldy. When I built mine I used batts and sizalation then coloursteel sheets with the joints sealed with RTV and all painted with mould resistant paint. If you use sizalation you need to put it on the warmest side of the wall or it will cause condensation.

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give me a fully insulated fish room that is heated enough that i don't need heaters in the tanks and i will quickly stop enjoying sitting watching my fish due to the heat and humidity of the room... and with it lose interest in keeping fish... but maybe that's just me....

all i'm sayin is, keep ya window, you might appreciate the fresh air in the room despite what effect it might have on the temp or insulation capabilities of the room...

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Issue number one:I have acess to both batts and sheets of poly, what is the better of them to use to insulate? I was thinking of kkinda sandwiching in the pink batts between poly. so poly nailed to the frame work on each side and batts in the midle. would this be most effective?

Just use the batts and line with wetline gib board, then i would line with seratone,

It is expensive, however will last a long time. water causes so much damage so do it right the first time.

Issue number two: The garage has a window, do I fully remove the window? get it replaced with double glazed joinery( I am a joiner by trade so will only need to pay for materials) I am heating via a heat pump courtasy of Caryl (many thanks once again) so will need to keep a hole for that to fit into. If I was to go to DG, is a opening window a smart idea or could that just add extra unwanted drafts?

I would put some poly on the window, glue with silicone.

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give me a fully insulated fish room that is heated enough that i don't need heaters in the tanks and i will quickly stop enjoying sitting watching my fish due to the heat and humidity of the room... and with it lose interest in keeping fish... but maybe that's just me....

all i'm sayin is, keep ya window, you might appreciate the fresh air in the room despite what effect it might have on the temp or insulation capabilities of the room...

I will still have sevral display tanks inside the house for me to perv on, the room will more be for breeding, playing with ideas and plants. More smaller tanks over bigger ones.

Thank you reef will take all of that into account

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how much experience do you have with batts and aqualine?

few important things -

When using batts DO NOT STUFF into your frames!! measure and cut EXACTLY to size like a jigsaw puzzle, then staple the tops with staple hammer or staple gun, otherwise you may as well not even batt, they have a tendency to slip and also become pretty useless at insulating if the edges are pinched or stuffed, basically your trying to maintain density of the batts material without changing it after you've cut it out of the bail. It needs to fit evenly and perfectly, take all care, try not to pinch or fold when installing and take your time! sweating and batts = a bad time. don't bother with trying to make a poly batts hybrid, it wont give you the effect your looking for. Make sure your ceiling batts are the thicker ceiling batts as this is where most of your heat loss will come from.

Having a window isnt a problem, but definatly rig some poly up to fit in and out as desired or if you have light sensitive eggs incubating. If you have a large amount of water in your fishroom, opening the door or window for an hour while your in their will barely (if any) effect the temps of your tanks as water holds heat well when in a room like that and will be a far more pleasant experience for you.

When installing aqualine make sure not to break the surface skin to badly when screwing and if you do and its not paintable, smudge some silicone in or any bathroom sealant in that spot (these areas have potential to track humidity, get damp and moldy and then turn gib soft and rubbishy), i also used silicone/bathroom sealant in all my sheet joins before i painted, this included the ceiling, but i used finishing's on the ceiling as well. I did an undercoat and then two coats of paint on top before i was happy.

Keep your off cuts because if you have a disaster and get water damage to the base, you can just cut the bottom out and replace it, i ended up replacing a strip across the bottom about 500ml high with treated ply instead of gib again so that i didn't need to replace it anymore if it got wet.

Also consider the over head lights you may perhaps install, the fitting need to be covered somehow, as they will also track humidity and get rusty and then explode on you one day! it took 3 years, but it did happen! and man did i change my undies after :slfg:

hope this is helpful in some way?

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He will know the deal then :) it is just VERY important to get it right the first time! Spent the first 3 years of building installing them with a company that was extreme about perfection, luckily 6 years in i have boys to do it for me (with the same complaints i made) especially about the level of pedanticness that seem to be required when installing but entirely necessary. The biggest issue is, once the walls are on, unless you want a huge job on your hands, its a lot harder to fix at that stage!

and if you do it right then - like my fishroom - the light saver bulbs were enough to heat it. 28c top rack 26 middle 22 bottom. Cant tell you how much money i saved, going from 7 tanks in the house to 40 in the fishroom!

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With very good insulation and a good volume of water inside as a heat sink the heating costs will be very low. You will be surprised how easy it is to breed a variety of fish in a fish house compared to in a heated tank especially anabantoids. Agree with a change of air in above post. This is why you want a good volume of water. The air also becomes fouled by the fish so a change of air is good for them as well.

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