cracker

Partial shot for clarity, (As much as my camera can do)! Full tank shot!

Cool....Ira has something little for me I think...... Maybe we can do something here?

Thats probably the ingredients of joes jiuce!!

I started and thought...... This is for wasp and Layton to battle over!! Too deep for me.

It wont kill the deeply embedded white spot...it is covered by the skin of the fish and is safe. Only the freshly attached ones.

They do assist with lifting freshly attched theronts from the gill area. It is only a temporary relief.

Fish and Inverts dont know about some of the organics or TDS within the water column. Large water changes simply remove them, Including HUGE amounts of floating Theronts. As long as the large water change contains the SAME balance of Salt, Bicarb/PH and temperature, the inhabitants wont notice the difference at all. When a huge wave dumps a completely new wave over them on a reef they have in effect had a 100% water change. Changing a large portion can only be an advantage if done correctly, not a disadvantage. (Must be matched though). Lots Clean water is always going to be better than dirty water.

wASP.....hE EATS aIPTASIA ON TOAST...THATS WHY HE GROWS IT!!

Just trying to work out the sarcasm bit! Explain!!

Reubs, if it is mild and the fish a acting normal...leave it. If they get covered, start flashing across rocks constantly and stop eating, you're in trouble and need to dose something.

Completely depends on the severity...if the spots are only a few and remain that way, sure....but if it gets chronic, something needs to be done. Obviously you havent had a chronic dose yet. Its bad news.

Why would it if it is at the right temperature, ph etc, etc before adding it. Ive done it before with no issues. (But I dont run ZEO)

You havent had a bad case yet, Including MV. You wait!

I change 30-40% at atime.....removes more crap. You can safely remove 80% if you do it perfectly. (Not necassary though for this problem)

The only thing to Guarantee "The best shot" is to: 1: do a huge water change NOW. 2: Dose stop parasite, (TWICE IN A ROW, plus a double doseage), as soon as you can. 3: feed heavily to assure the Tang and everybody else is eating well and happy. (Include lots of Nori or spiralina flake). Halfway through dosing, do another big water change. then leave it. Even if all spots are not cleared, that is ok....The Tangs immune system will be up and running ready to fight what remains. They will eventually go, So long as you dont add rock or other fish with some more on them. STOP PARASITE ONLY REMOVES THE MAJORITY OF THE PARASITES. But a great enough amount to assist fish to gain immunity. THIS IS JUST AS IMPORTANT. Craig

The main problems with Aiptaisia, is they can sting other coral. But if they are nowhere near a coral it dont natter. I know heaps of reefers who have them and dont worry about it.

wheres a picture of your tank Layton?

Then again, cyno is a form of algae. The oldest type known to man. Its like the link between bacteria and algae.

Sorry, meant the last bit of your statement!

Yeah...wouold be good if they were nice and colourful.........Mine are boring!

Top off flitering media to allow pure water to enter your tank when your tank evaporates. There is a lot of crap in top off water, especially town supply.

No it wont...silicates get through, they are almost fully dissloved.

"Sand hopper thingamejiggies"!!