wasp

Completely wrong Layton. Below that level will not sustain sps. You are perhaps confused thinking I mean 0.03. But I don't, I mean what I say, which was below 0.003. No doubt the rest of your post will be full of wrong info also but like I said i can't be bothered so beyond the first sentence which turned out to be rubbish, I'm not even reading it.

It's just the mindless repetition of over simplistic assumptions that get me when I've been hearing the same thing for years from a guy who can't even keep colourful & healthy sps. Comparing our tank to a wild reef may be what people want to hear, but it is not the reality. We need to understand the chemistry of a tank. When Layton can put up a pic of his healthy and colourful sps, I'll talk to him, but for now why should I or anyone take his advice? Thanks for making this another great thread, I'm done with it.

Sorry Brian if that’s what you think I would not recommend you go zeovit. Craig was correct in that if I respond to Laytons arguments, it will never end, same as every other thread I ever started involving filtration or water quality. So I’m just going to state that what typically happens in a tank, NOT IN A WILD REEF which is a whole different ball game. The tank will typically be running at a much higher level of nutrients than a wild reef. Perhaps a Po4 value of 3.0, or similar. As a result, there will be brown sps, and perhaps algae. The sps are chocolate brown and have adapted to the high nutrient level over a long time, perhaps months or more. So – The reefkeeper decides to do something about this and reduce phosphate. Typically using a phosphate resin, zeovit, or vodka. But he gets carried away and overdoes it, reducing Po4 in a very short time to levels below 0.003. Below levels that occur in NSW and are required by the sps to sustain life. The sps need Po4 for survival and there is now not enough to sustain them. On top of that they have been adapted over a period to much higher Po4 levels than occur in a wild reef. The result is they lose tissue, and perhaps die. It has nothing to do with iron or whatever Laytons latest theory of the month is. Now I know Layton will come back and argue about this, but I cannot be bothered. I’ve just posted this so those who wish can have the information.

OK Cracker, you're right. Sadly I'll have to let Layton continue with his tank "issues", when he learns more, he may be able to get a pic up.

No you're confused. Water around sps reefs is quite stable. That's why there is a sps reef there. Never saw an overdose of vodka into a wild reef. The problem they are discussing is what can happen in a little glass box we call a reef tank. Very small environement, very vulnerable. We are talking about much bigger swings, much bigger, than what happens on a wild sps coral reef when the tide changes. Catastrophically big changes. Big enough to cause TN.

http://zeovit.com/forums/showthread.php ... #post51668 And no, my avatar is not photoshopped other than cropping, it is the real monti

You always want a good skimmer. Think of it as a waste removal machine for your tank. The more efficient the better.

LOL :lol: :lol: :lol: I just HAD to butt in one more time to laugh at that one !! Good one Ghostface ROTFL!

A beckett is a venturii, kinda. The beckett venturiis are sold in the US, for people to put on their pond fountains, so as the water passes through it allows air to mix in so the fountain is kind of frothy. Somebody twigged that this might make for a good protein skimmer, and so the beckett skimmer was born. Many beckett skimmers are home made, but a becket skimmer is any skimmer incorporating the beckett fountain venturii. Needlewheel skimmers, instead of having a normal impellor in the pump, the impellor has lots of little pins on it. There is an air tube just before the pump so air is sucked in with the water, and as it passes through the rapidly spinning needles on the impellor, the bubbles are broken up into a small fine size. The quality needlewheels are well researched and designed, and break the bubbles into the correct size, and all the same size, to get maximised efficiency.

It's different every time. Some corals get on with each other, others don't they try to kill each other in various ways, so you can pack as many into a tank as can live compatably with their neighbours. Fish, I don't think there is a rule. Some fish need a territory and will defend it and some fish will not get on with other fish. Here is a fish compatability chart http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/comp ... _chart.cfm The other thing with stocking levels is if there are too many fish they will create more waste and you may get algae problems. Stock slowly and monitor how things are going. For your tank you'll need to look at fish suitable for a small tank and that will get on with other fish in close proximity. heres some fish for small tanks, some of these available in NZ http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/scat ... CatId=2124 And here's some of the easier fish recommended for beginners http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/scat ... CatId=1926 but some of these are aggressive so check that out on the compatability chart. Also I don't agree that the algae blenny is for beginners they can be quite dificult if there is not a ready supply of algae.

Actually Layton it is quite funny really. Every single thread I've ever started, or been in, trying to discuss filtration in a sensible manner, has been turned into a great big arguing thread, by you. I've never once been able to have a sensible discussion about zeovit on this forum, thanks to you. Now you get upset and abusive when I crashed your thread. Funny that. Just to show what a gentleman I am, I'll now leave your UV thread, it's yours :lol:

Quote "I try to give people info which is accurate. Sometimes it's what they want to hear. Other times, they don't what to hear it."

:lol: :lol:

Scratching to find enough UV ones? Using an ozone tank to demonstrate how UV makes a tank better is certainly an interesting, if somewhat confused, approach.

One of the tanks you gave as a great example of UV, is actually not UV at all. It runs ozone!

No. Not that I've seen.

Put it this way Layton you've been running it a week now. Did it work? Any results? Before and after pics?

Carbon is fine in a correctly run tank.

He certainly knows how to keep a tank clean. Mammoth skimmer, 500 snails, and no fish. Not sure what the UV i$ actually there for!

It'$ ju$t that it'$ a very expen$ive filtration method again$t the re$ult$ :lol:

Bomber certainly has a clean tank. But then, it's a 500 gallon with less fish in than I have in my 75 gallon ( which is also clean ). I don't think the UV made any difference.

Bingo!

Best I've been able to tell UV is a rather expensive band aid. Water quality problems can be fixed by other means. Even among top rated tanks owned by people with lots of money, UV is not hugely popular. In a correctly set up and running tank, some carbon is all that is needed. Not saying UV does not work or anything, just there are ways to get more bang for the buck. My humble opinion

Thanks for the positive input Layton

Hey that's a great site Combo! Good work!