wasp

No it's not mine. Looks like another one of those pretty DSB's :lol: :lol: Wonder what that red stuff is on the right of it?

Yes there is no money to be made in selling complete set ups. I think it's because people are just not prepared to pay the full cost. Many of us started not knowing just how much it was all going to cost. I've seen some complete set ups going on Trade Me for a fraction of what the guy would have spent on it, feel real sorry for the vendor. Buying a reasonable set up on Trade Me is probably the cheapest way to get entry to the hobby. Is Jettin leaving the hobby?

Well done raeh1. To me, that establishes a bottom line dollar amount, for a reasonable set up. Newbies would need to be aware that that involved a fair bit of thought, and shopping around, but proves it can be done What size is the tank?

Very interesting Brian. Useful post!

That looks pretty fair to me. There could be a few bucks shaved off here and there for example someone may skip for example the rowaphos, although then they will not have the water quality. I think that post should be used as "standard issue" to people who enquire about start up cost. It gives a good ball park figure people may be able to make adjustments from there, eg, if they are going sandless, or whatever.

Money. No I'm not joking, that's where most newbies screw up. They won't spend the needed money, they end up with a crappy tank, they either leave the hobby or basically have to start again. I know that cos I did it myself.

Oh, I see what you mean. Probably simplest though to refer to venturi only, as venturi, and needlewheel as needlewheel. Because all venturis are not nessecarily needlewheel. The main difference in power consumption being that with venturi only, big pump and pressure is required to produce proper bubble size and quantity, whereas with needlewheel big pressure is not required as the needles do the job.

Needlewheel & venturi are two totally different things. Venturi requires big pressure rated pump. Needlewheel much more economical on power consumption, plus is generally regarded as doing a better job.

Yes put it this way if the skimmer will be air stone driven ( or stones for one that big), the pump need not be huge. But if it will be venturii / becket, the pump will have to be BIG, plus have a good pressure rating. Will not only be expensive initially, but use a lot of electricity. IMO you should first plan the whole thing, price it, and then figure if you should just buy a needlewheel one. Also, may be interesting for the rest of us to inform as to all up cost.

A pet shop that sells marine stuff. Also I'm not sure if they can help but there are 2 people on this forum that import them, they are jetskisteve, and reef, you could drop them a pm. Just one thing - there are good skimmers, and not so good ones. The skimmer is likely the most important piece of filtration you have, and also once you got it, it will last you for life. But they are expensive. But you should budget for a quality needlewheel one as this will make a big difference to your tank.

A protein skimmer sends bubbles through a water column which creates froth containing impurities from the water. The froth is then removed and this is a great way to clean the tank. But much to know. Best plan is to enter these 3 words into google all at once - aquarium protein skimmer. Then read and read. When you buy one get a needlewheel one they are the latest and best. Water from the beach, yes, it's as simple as that. But don't get dirty stuff. Find a place where at high tide you can get nice clean water. It won't be clean when the sea is rough, you need an offshore wind and flat sea. Usually a wharf, rocks, or boatramp is best.

My 2 false percs lived in a tank that size with an anemone plus a bunch of assorted corals for approx 2 years. They appeared very content, I think it was big enough. However they never laid eggs till after a move to a bigger tank.

Will go a long time without problems if you have good skimming plus run a rowaphos reactor. But having said that, seriously consider a bigger tank. - Trust me !

A floating hydrometer will be fine. Would pay to calibrate it though by testing in some water of a known salinty if you can do that, just to ensure it is accurate. Mollies and puffers (I'm assuming brackish puffer) are pretty forgiving but if in doubt keep the salinity a tad lower, rather than higher.

Just take it up a point or 2 each day, ie 10 - 15 days to get up to 1.020. Mollies are pretty tough and can handle a bigger swing than that but there's also the logistics of actually getting the salt in. One way would be to drain the tank to about 1/2 full then top up over a couple of weeks until full with water mixed to about 1.030. Then just use salt mix for top up until salinity is right where you want it. Not sure but I thought bumblebees preferred a bit lower than 1.020?

Well can't argue with that! I'm surprised at how clean the whole thing is, not often to see a full footprint DSB tank like that. The colors also are pretty awesome, do you dose any coral food?

Oops I should have said, that's not my tank it's Reeftecs! Please don't tell me I did a Layton!!

No it's a fact. I have a reliable source. - You. You said yourself you acros suffering from TN. I wonder what's happened to them now? And you also said you had to strip down tank and remove all your rock to treat for nutrient overload. So you talking about lying, which one of you is lying? But I really don't wish to put down. Just don't tell people with great photo what to do cos noone believes you.

Are we to assume that's his current tank? Last I heard his acros were suffering TN the tank has been stripped and he's confining himself to telling people with nice acro tanks how they should be doing it. Wonder why there is a credibility gap?

To show an example of it being done very successfully. Discuusion is fine, that's what the rest of us want. 20 pages of argueing is not fine, it's a pain.

Chimera and Cookie Extreme. The pics of Reeftecs tank are linked in the first post in this thread and I've put one here. No doubt there are more to come once he's got the how to sorted. Layton. I'm dissapointed that after I invite this guy here he is immediately drawn into one of your never ending arguments. Yes I know you feel you have a point but we've all heard it. I was hoping Reeftec could be welcomed and discuss his interesting tank in a friendly and supportive manner, not get beaten over the head with your sandbed bashing fixation. Anyhow, the guy has pics like this. Seems like he's doing something right. What and who is to argue?

Or use Photobucket http://photobucket.com I've pm'ed you about this. You'll be able to show some of your pics like this

Alan you're a genius! Why didn't I think of that? Next time!

Interesting comment Skuzza. In a part of my frag system, this part around 450 liters, there is 2 tangs, blenny, rabbitfish, several wrasses and gobies and a bunch of shrimps. There is only 4 kg rock in the whole thing, yet nitrite and nitrate are both undetectable Salifert. That's less than 1 kg per 100 liters. The system is BB and I keep it clean, but nonetheless it does demonstrate we can get away with a lot less rock than the traditional amount. Apart from the extra room made available by having less rock, another advantage i believe would be less substrate available to accumulate and hang on to undesireable nutrients such as phosphate.

Well now I've had time to digest all that it's an incredibly well thought out and designed system. No wonder everything looks so good. Also great to see this measure of success in only a 4 foot tank. Heckuva lot of lighting also, do you attribute that with the great colors you have? Why halides on only 7 hours per day? The DSB looks very clean for 2 years old, despite your reasonable bioload. Do you vacuum it or anything? Or just leave it completely?