RnB

does anyone know who imports this stuff?

Yeah, right. Think about the wording... where do most people buy there cheap shoddy equipment and corals.......

Pies was one of my and one of reef's posts I agree the personal slagging should have been removed. I was responsibkle for my bit and I am sorry for that. There where other aspects of my post however that I wish to repost as they where not personal. I am just making sure my wording could not be constructed in any way outside this sites rules.......

lots of reef central acrylic gurus saying there is no need to anneal.... what is your experience of this comment Warren?b

that is exactly what a mate said... http://www.laserstream.co.nz seeing them monday

It seems that the laser machine i went to look at will not achieve a suitable result straigh off, it is concave. It is because as the operater explained the laser beam diverges, they can change the focal length so the cut is square at the edges, but it is deeper in the middle. It is not suitable for direct glueing without jointing etc. It was a huge laser cutter, they where cutting 1/8inch thick steel with it when i saw it running..... I am going to see another machine to see if it can give a better result.

small plastic fish/coral holder from LFS - $30 plastic unit for holding sher gel etc in shower from payless plastics..... $2 The look on IRA's face when he finds the $2 media holder.... Priceless have a real good wonder round your local payless plastics... all sorts of cool things can be found!

ok put a bowl into your sump, put media in it in a bag, direct stream into the bowl.....

Local pet shops going to love you Layton ;^)

keep at it I beleive the phosban or whatever gives a better result under high flow use. you probably did not have enough flow to fluidise so it acted as a blockage, do not give up. use a powerhead or just place the phosban in a sock in the direct stream of your outflow in the sump I do this, and I believe it gets better results. Binding agents can only bind if they get access to the media, increrased water flow over the media must, to a point, help. Peter

the importance of accurate test results, even at micro levels is so the the early developement of a trend can be detected. Any element of control/feedback is based on measurement. The difference between 0.1 and 0.14 is of course 40%, quite a difference if your corals require 0.0 and not that bad if two weeks earlier you had 0.16 It allows you to have confidence that your phosphate removal method is working or needs tuning. And that is why i find the hobby tests so difficult, they give you the confidence that you don't have much phosphate, but because they are so difficult to read they give you no ability to accurately monitor or analyse a trend, as the interpritation element of the result is larger then the change you are trying to detect. Colorimeters do, like any test, have an error element, however THE human element is taken away, meaning that accurate scientific testing and trend analysis can be achieved. Again, this meter cost me $300, cost per test around $0.30 shared between 2-3 people the meter represents better value then any hobby test kit can. I will bring it along to the next reef club meeting anyway, I am sure lots of people would be interested in seeing it operate... in time I suspect, the full range of aquarium parameters will be measurable via accurate colorimeter testing. further questions how did you create your sample solutions, why only test once. not enough data to establish if meter is correct, most of us test our tanks weekly, and do a retest if anything is way up/out. Where is the Deltec test results to compare its accuracy. By you please not some marketing guy in Germany. We want to establish how accurate these tests are in a typical situation, not in a german lab. I am to be honest still not happy with you response so far. 1st rubish the cost of the colorimeter. 2nd insist hobby test kit is more accurate. 3rd produce results from only colorimeter. lets just test some peoples actual tank water! with both methods.

thoughts..... you have too much time/money but a good idea, I am doing simillar but "Peter Powered" using 3mm spectra yacht racing briad and a simple pully system. the braid is available in lotsa cool colors, has about 70kg breaking strain, easy on the hands/fingers and costs about $17 for about 20m from memory. remember those things they use to open the windows in old schools/gov buildings with the windy thing.... I hate having to move lights around.

thats what i think as well... for some pumps.... Iwaki do not have seperate impeller assemblies for 50 or 60hz pumps just one build so they are safe IMHO from my pump labs at uni (how sad they where to an electronics engineer all that way back!) remind me that for a given pump design if you plot the output say LPM from say 5 rpm through to say 1800rpm then the curve will go up to the pump reaches maxium efficiency then begin to drop.... how flat the top would be would be a function of the design.. I am going to take a punt here that most pumps running on 60Hz in the US would run here at very near there max effiecincy..... I am thinking of running everything in my MAF room on 115V excpet the heaters and lights... that way I can just import any pump, controller etc etc etc from the us without hassle...... a big 5kva transformer unit is about $150-200 second hand and probably have a smaller one on stanby... I have a 2kva one for my treadmill already.... never had a problem with it and have done massive miles on it. It does not get very hot, so i am suspecting the losses are quite low as well.....

Thats where I am heading DSB in refuge and prob no sand in display.... maybe 1 inch but i am sure i will regret it.....

Have been in WGTN, but just back. I am collecting water this weekend and will post phosphate results on here as soon as I am about to dump it into my tank..... Peter

so are you willing to double blind test against the colorimeter... you are right it is more expensive, lets see if its truely better or not!

badly worded... a 1060 or perhaps smaller T'ed off in the midle at the back pointing in each direction moves a lot of water and also helps the general flow in the tank more then a spray bar IMHO in or out mounting not matter, it was my intention to say that i think this is more effective at moving crap out then a spray bar config..... by the way, i have 2 1060's sitting in my tank, they don't look good, but man they move the water around!

lets do a double blind test then I use my colorimeter, you use the deltec test kit Am more then happy to front up in front of anyone and prove the colorimeter is a more accurate way to test then intrepretation of colors.... I am not saying that a colorimeter is perfect, just better then a hobby test kit. you have not proved how repeatable the deltec test is in the above results, and you could only do this if you did not know the strength of the solution, otherwise you may be biased... apply the science, double blind test please. there is no point debating this further, its just what you say vs what I say. this is pointless. next reef club meeting lets have a test off! we each test the same sample twice, have 3 samples, and neither of us know the actual sample solution..... There are some here Alois who would accuse you of commercial bias, as you commercially represent the test kits you promote. A testoff would do a lot to prove that you really believe in them. People would respect your confidence, and I guess if it was as accurate as you promote increase your sales...... that should provide some scientic results that all here can interprit how they like.

http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fus ... l/iid/7654 is this a good price... looks good...

warren - it does seem that some pumps are rated 50 or 60hz, like Iwaki's MD External Pumps Widely used in the aquarium industry, these magnetic drive pumps have ceramic shafts and will pump a high volume of water at an extremely low price. Inlet/Outlets are 1" barb fittings. Not designed to run dry. Not UL-listed, CE-approved, pumps are 115V/50-60Hz. Six month warranty. but not Ehiem... so far as i can see, still this is not the hobby of freely exchanged information that I would like..... Have been advised that the drop in pump throughput will probably not be the 40% you mentioned tho, how did you come to this figure? Peter

i agree, run a 1060 across the back of your tank.. more = better with circulation....... I do not think a spray bar, unless LOTS of volume cuts it IMHO Peter

from takapuna, no issues so far but will post as soon as i have one. best thing is the speed and ease of doing a big change, and the low cost. I will test phosphates next time i go, which will probably be this weekend. Peter

what has happened?

yep $340 reserve...... thats iwaki import teritorry trademe is such a good model aye Pies... you could sell almost anything this way.... Live fish... live corals... salt mix....skimmers hey anything... but lets not start that thread again....

my blue tang has simmilar, i reckon he bumped something, see how it is tomorrow, flatmate hasn't reported him floating :roll: blue tangs often seem to carry a few battlescares..... sometimes i think its a good thing that i am only around the tank wekends as i can only do so much, often when i get back following weekend the "problem" is gone... and i tend to forget it when down here as well :lol: