chimera

ya cant do a first post like that combo without showing us a pic of ya tank first or giving us some background on ya tank

check your pm

big call cracker, go to zeovit.com and tell me that those colours are "weak". go to jetski's house and tell me his acro's look "weak". nothing personal, but thats such a typical type of comment on this site. someone see's ONE example and turns that into general consensus. :roll:

i used one about 6 years ago on my freshwater tank. to be honest i dont like them. they use air to blow the food out (as it rotates). if the food is all the same size, not too much an issue but different size flakes they can block up the hole and you get different size feedings. plus if any moisture gets inside, the food sticks to the inside of the feeder. also a few times the timer got stuck on and it fed the whole tank the contents of the container. 2/10

cheers steve much tighter lids than the last lot

They're not saying they use it. Anyways something that size would probably not require huge water changes anyway.

mine's at 100% for both streams during the day and 50% for one and 60% for the other at night.

tickets aint cheap http://atlanta.about.com/od/travelandto ... uarium.htm

just been looking through the tanks on that site again, for most of them it should be called http://www.ratemybigpileofrocks.com/

as steve says, not everyone knows. comments like that will stop people asking questions on this site ira. it maybe obvious to those who know or have been on here long enough but to someone starting out it may not be so obvious. it didnt occur to me when i first started, even took me a couple of months to find out too! :-?

:lol: the problem is it's not a screw type fitting. return would be ok but i'd never use a non-screw type fitting on a closed loop.

put your on the reef it should hit top 10 easy

heheee, i'll probably get booted off RC for my remark...

all i notice is 3 days later, your photo's are blury. are you sure you're not putting the capfuls in your body tank?

i doubt there is little difference in power costs, the chiller would run for a lot less time than the fans would to produce the same cooling effect. also the fans are for extraction (like a bathroom fan) to take the heat out of the display tank room. i would think even without the halides on that little room might get quite hot so may even have to hook up ups for it

great idea cracker, i could use it to drive my dosing pump

RO requires constant high pressure, if you can, have the tap always turned on to the RODI unit then have a solenoid on the outlet that controls filling your topup tank (via float switch or similar) then, have a dosing pump on timer (or another float switch) to top up your system - that would be the best scenario IMO. you could always have potential issues with the timer failing, or the float switch getting stuck or similar so it should never be fully automated and checked regularly. options to build redundancy into top up are pretty much endless, you could even go as far as having an intermediary topup tank (of fixed size) between your topup drum and sump with another dosing pump on a timer to ensure you never have a drop in salinity because of a dosing pump or timer stuck on!!! depends how anal you want to be for me, importance is with heat at the moment - i want to add a thermal shutdown to my system so the halides switch off if the tank hits 30 degrees. this is because the room that my in-wall tank sits in will be enclosed soon (alot smaller) i want to add extraction fans on thermal controlled system as well so they will come on if the tank hits 27 degrees. chances are it should never turn on as the chiller should maintain the temperature around 25. thats why i put the sump room and halides on the same RCD circuit, if something in the sump room trips the power, then the lights (main source of heat around the display tank) will go off also. the closed loop is on a separate RCD to maintain circulation. if the power goes off to the whole house, both the room for the display tank and the sump room are insulated so the tank temperature should maintain constant for sometime.

yeah same, added some absolut last night mixed with zeovit things might happen a little faster. fish looked cheery last night but hungover this morning 8)

yeah, so did i tank has got a bit dirty, sand browner, more algae,... just a phase its going through at the moment. give it a couple of months and I'll show ya some great pics!

what sort of vodka are you adding? will absolut vodka do?! im pretty sure that plain vodka with nothing else added

amazing how even the angle of the shot can do wonders. tank looks awesome reef!

agree, go somewhere that specialises in plumbing. the plumber who's doing the extension on my house at the moment reckons that plumbing prices have gone up anywhere from 40% - 60% in the last year or two all because of rising oil prices.

November test results - pH looks a little out at 8.44 but I havent calibrated my pH monitor for a while. Will do this later and try again. Mg a little low, have added some Magnesium to boost this up a bit. kH a tad high for running with zeovit. In terms of water chemistry, everything else Im happy with (except nutrient levels of course!) but Im happy knowing that these are slowly coming down. I expected around January before I got some decent acro colouration so if all goes well I should be on target, assuming zeovit does its thing!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- DISCUSSION ON RESULTS HERE: http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?p=85187 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ******************** NOVEMBERS RESULTS ************************* pH = 8.44 (pinpoint) (not so sure on validity of this reading, i think the ph monitor need calibrating ) PO4 = 0ppm (salifert) NO3 = 0ppm (salifert) kH = 9.9 (salifert) Ca = 440 (salifert) Mg = 1170 (salifert) Salinity = 1.025 @ 26.2 degrees (refractometer)

or go 20metres around the corner from HFF in Albany to Chesters (ask for Peter) or go across the road from HFF in Albany to Mico's (ask for Duncan) both sell them. Just head around the back of their counter and help yourself. Ask for trade pricing.