chimera

any reason why this wouldn't work? kind of like an upside down durso but without the requirement of air, so sort of full syphon but without the tap? obviously means you have to get the hole drilled in the top at the right level so water doesnt drop off the overflow too far and not too high that it sits higher than the tank water level

:roll: plumbing is not complex, even those previous designs are not complex. if it takes half a day to make a (what layton might call a "complex") overflow system that is both full safe and completely quiet, then surely doing that for a tank that could be running for 10+ years is not really that bigger deal?!! i do agree, simple is good. but those designs are not exactly rocket science

yeah i got one of those, but for the house. to check just the tank is difficult as the transmitter clamps over the phase wire. unless you have your tank on a dedicated circuit and can get access to that rcd's phase wire, its pretty hard. you can turn everything else off though and check it highly recommend the centameter though, very cool device.

yeah, perhaps. i do apologise :oops: just got a short wick at the moment, stressed out at work, both kids sick, weather crap, tank p@#$ing me off... all adds up eh, im gonna head down to the garage and build a dog house, power tools YEAH! frustration released!

clever. i'm still going to invent something myself, mixture of the two but never needs adjusting, never gurgles and is completely silent i know it can be done!

32mm = an area of 804mm squared. If you were to T it off, then you need 25mm on each (25mm = an area of 490mm squared, multiply that by 2 outlets = 980mm squared) So you'll lose slightly more pressure coming out of the 2 outlets compared to a single 32mm. Probably so little its not worth worrying about as you gain the advantage of water movement at each end. (and just as an example, the next size down from 25mm piping is 20mm. If you went to 2 x 20mm outlets then this is only 630mm squared, 174mm less area than the outlet of the pump!)

:roll: the cost is painful duh

one return, match piping to pump outlet, split it into 2 just before it hits the tank (reduce pipes but NOT to half the original) work it out to be same or slightly larger, pi r^2

yup. dont think they all eat diatoms though? i thought their specialty is green hair algae

yeah, done to death! painful completely... $519 last month for me

likewise. all my euphyllia are much happier when put in areas that are more shaded - perhaps low/moderate light. one torch coral looked bleached when i put it out directly under the 400's. moved it back down the tank and its happy again

yes, although star polyps prefer moderate/strong lighting after putting a heap of light over my tank, my mushrooms started to disappear. many have since grown back in shaded areas under rocks etc.

ok im sure more than one of us is confused. did you put the holes back in the spray bar? :lol:

diatoms no doubt (although does have the texture of cyano?) how old is your tank? (if young, this is perfectly normal!) what are your nitrate levels at? what type of sand is that? what type of skimmer do you have? only way to cure diatoms is to starve them, take away the source of food that they consume - that being nitrates and silicates. - cut down on your photo-period (lighting per day) - do more frequent water changes - use RODI topup water - dont overfeed

gotta pic? is it "slimey" or "prickly". if more prickly looking then its probably diatoms - you need to reduce nutrients. if slimey, then probably inadequate lighting. can you post details of your tank?

exactly. so you either have the option of cutting back on feeding, but if thats not an option (because your fish will starve ) then you need to increase nutrient export, such as getting a larger skimmer, using rowaphos or the likes etc. things like poor flow and inadequate lighting are things that just help supplement it's growth - but all in all it's about reducing DOC's.

so imports blv?

nice!

the narva readings look more consistant to the readings i took. and intensity. if you screw the bulb in so the nipple (?) is facing horizontal (pointing downwards) you get more intensity in the centre as well as the edges of the reflector. having it point sideways or on an angle light is dispersed more unevenly. i would be interested to see the difference it makes without the lumen arc reflector at all. obviously a reasonable amount, but just how much?

:lol: i put filter wool on my detritus catcher (piece of eggcrate sitting on a 45 degree angle after the last baffle in the sump) last night after i did a 15% water change. this morning, it was FILTHY. i would imagine a powerhead simply decreases the time it takes for filter wool to catch the same amount of detritus. in other words, at normal flow rate through your sump, if you multiplied the time the wool was sitting there to match the same flow as the powerhead, i'd guess it would be just as dirty. i dont think its a bad thing though, there is always detritus floating in the water column (algae and the likes) that you can't see. using filter wool every now and then to strip it out IMO is a good thing.

no worries.

over what time period for each brand? how can you justify it as being the best? could it be that the smirnof was the last you tried and your tank had continued with it's normal progression anyway? big call i think without hard core evidence.

I've never had a trace of it after i upgraded my skimmer to deltec ap902. have had a few issues with diatoms, but no cyano.

Then you're obviously not doing it well enough so have you actually read the site? they explain why you get cyano - irrelevant of whether they are selling the product. don't use their product, just read everything prior to the "fix" so you understand why it's caused. here's a couple more cyano articles i post regularly when this subject comes up, both listed under reference links sticky at the top of the saltwater section. http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/r ... teria.html http://www.xs4all.nl/~buddendo/aquarium ... ld_eng.htm Duke asked... "but it comes back" - because he's concentrating on the symptom, not the cause.

you're trying to fix the problem by removing the cyano, you need to concentrate on removing the source of the problem. cyano is caused by a build up of nutrients, poor lighting and water flow can also assist it grow. also cut back on your dosing. as i just posted on another thread, read this, good overview... http://reefshow.com/html/modules.php?na ... le&sid=109