chimera

yeah, decent skimmer. if you still get it after cycling, you gotta look at what is fueling the algae. it feeds off nitrates and phosphates, so ensure top up water is via RODI, don't overfeed, have decent filtration etc. get a new test kit. specifically with phosphates, most test kits dont read low enough

yes. BIG water changes will help

Here's the zeovit guide in English incase you have not read (Acrobat Reader required): http://korallen-zucht.de/fileadmin/user ... nglish.pdf See page 12 for zeostart. 2ml's per 100 gallons (450 odd litres) Just realised that the above PDF has pretty much the same information as the brochure

zeovitnz sent me a colourful brochure on all the zeovit products (apprently just converted to english just recently!) it's a very good brochure as it explains why you would use each of these products in one or two paragraphs. i can probably answer some of your questions (if zeovitnz does not see this post prior) from info in the brochure when i get home tonight. i might even scan the pages and post here (I don't see this as being a problem as it's essentially marketing for them? ) I'll have a look to see if they have an online English version yet. For 1,000 litres I was dosing 6 drops of zeobac and 6 of zeofood twice a week. Did not use zeostart - I think because the tank was established already for sometime.

joeblog - btw never ever have I taken offence to your posts

Im making a comparison of different camera's taking the same shots of my tank. The Canon was far superior quality than my Sony. I have edited my photos coming from the Sony to reduce the blue. The picture is far to saturated and the colours are unrealistic. Its the technology that goes into the camera that makes a good photo (if you are comparing one camera to the next, same photo, same lighting etc) It's highly probable that your mates "cheap" camera has a top quality CCD, perhaps lacking in other features that would otherwise make it expensive. I'm also not saying every Canon kicks arse either, but the "cheap" one that my mate had (similar priced to my Sony, in fact slightly cheaper) took a much better shot. I don't know how much more evidence you need than that. Perhaps I should have stipulated models - to be fair what I have just described compares one model to another, not one make to another. Perhaps Sony use a more advanced CCD in their top models? Who knows. All I do know is every model Canon I have seen takes exceptionally good photo's. Purely observation.

i believe its the CCD chip that is one of the most important aspects of a digital camera, its the quality of the CCD that gains better quality and colour. That is why canon are such good cameras as they have top quality CCD's. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charge-coupled_device I think other types of camera's use CMOS, here's a fact/fiction between the two. CCD is better quality basically. http://www.dalsa.com/shared/content/Pho ... willer.pdf

my tap water is 75ppm :-? RODI 0ppm of course.

arhhh... a canon - the best camera's i've seen. just gotta get myself one a mate and i compared my sony to his canon when we got them a couple of years back, similar models, both 5mpx, similar pricing, took photo's of the same things and the colour and clarity of the canon was far superior to the sony. anyone want to buy my 5mp sony camera?

cheers steve, much appreciated. yeah we do have stanley products sold here so im sure i should be able to source it!

ferrit.co.nz?

fantastic! what camera do you use, photo's are insanely clear!

that's exactly it fused! heavy duty relay does the trick for me never failed on me yet!

Yeah thats the HPM timer I use, but that price is a rip off. You can get them for $15 from Bunnings (last time I was there) or Dick Smith. Don't let moisture get in them or the buttons won't work

hopefully not at all. would be nice to have some reef's that are untouched by man

Thats the problem I had too Drifty, ballasts drew so much power on startup they blew the timer. So I built a box with relay in it. Has power in from mains and power in from the timer. Timer triggers the relay, relay switches on letting mains power from other feed powering the lights. The box has 4 outlets in it. Three of them feed the 3 halides and the 4th is spare but currently hooked up to a fan blowing over the top of the tank for cooling (obviously comes on when halides turn on). I have another separate timer for the 2 x T5's that comes on an hour before and goes off an hour after the halides. It cost a little bit for the relay but was kinda fun to build

way cool, that 2nd pic in the slide show is cool, what an awesome place to go diving!

HPM digital timer hooked up to a relay, never failed me yet

cheers dude. i've updated the members section with these pic's some were a bit old Speak to reef, I got my one off him ages ago. It's a tidy little unit though but much cheaper to DIY it. Problem i got now is the moonlight squeezes it's light through 2 reflectors, may 2" or so? :lol: Not as good as those old pics This is a good thread, need more pic's of other tanks. Very cool to see!

Might as well add to this thread I started over a year ago :lol: ******************** SEPT 06 RESULTS ************************* pH = 8.16 (pinpoint) PO4 = 0ppm (salifert) NO3 = 0ppm (salifert) kH = 10.6 (salifert) Ca = 410 (salifert) Mg = 1350 (salifert) Salinity = 1.025 @ 25.7 degrees (refractometer) Interested to see others results

I raised my lights up about 3 inches tonight. I did this after recommendation from zeovitnz. He offered quite a bit of other helpful advice too. Good dude! Aesthetically, I think the tank is one hell of alot nicer to look at now as it was insanely bright before. Moved an acro down a little too as I think it may have been getting too much light. Will see how things take shape now

It's a pity it won't stay that clean as it cycles Lucky you got a workable sized tank to clean easily. Perfect size for going zeovit without the huge costs!

love the aquascaping. nice job!

here's my tank as of tonight. i've moved the lights up another 3" from where they were before. i found i had to reduce the % blue and lightness in photoshop as 1300W's of lighting fully saturates the photo!!! Full tank shot Left side Right side

yeah, annoying huh? i find having the flash on for full tank shots works best - and more so if they are taken on a slight angle so you dont get flash off the glass. otherwise i think white balance settings to get rid of blue. about to try again now...