chimera

if theres any calcium buildup try using white vinegar. any stubborn stains try using mineral turps - just give it a good wash out afterwards before using!

his names alastair and he lives on the north shore. i'll be picking up the anenome about mid-week or possibly next weekend so will ask for you then.

bubble tip anenome. see here: http://www.trademe.co.nz/structure/auction_detail_expired.asp?id=15061163 I'll ask him if he has anymore.

$50

i've just worked out power points required around the sump room. so far im at 5 singles and 5 doubles. that doesnt include too many spares either im mainly using the singles for equipment on timers whereas the doubles are for things on 24x7... contrary to that the return pump is on a single because its being wired to a master switch upstairs in the "fishroom" where i can turn it off incase of emergencies i'll be getting a 25amp circuit on rcd wired up on saturday morning. the 4 foot will be moved out of the wall and into the sump room that day as well (that means all live rock and fish too!) so the lounge wall can be cut out more and the tank stand extended and the top re-created complete with holes cut out in the plywood for the tank valves in the bottom of the tank (for the closed loops) a little shit scared doing all this. the 5 footer probably wont go in until next saturday as there is so much to do until then (gib cut out, new beam in, studs changed, plastered, painted etc) my bro inlaw is designing and building a hood for the new m/h lighting and moonlight to run on pulleys (dont have much room between lights and the ceiling though) will take progress shots during the weekend and post later! wish me luck....

yeah, i bought an anenome off a guy on there couple of days ago. he's a mate of nicks i believe. the other corals you may see are steves odd how 3 different people all started selling corals at once though... good news all the same.

pics?

dunno about online, go to jansens

persistance.

egg crate... or is it diffuser,... no eggcrate, but wait... :lol: either or, as above. plus marley piping (for legs) with slits cut in it and affixed with silicon to the egg crate. bought mine from a place out in mt wellington in auckland. pies reckons mastertrade sell it too so go see them.

Already decided against the piece shown above for obvious reasons! The threaded piece is a 25mm pressure fitting that I hacksawed down about half as follows: I did this to get the spray bar sitting closer to the bottom of the tank. It screws straight onto the Hansen tank valve. I can still screw it on because I made the size of the spray bar so I've got about 5mm clearance from the back of the tank. I would have made it about 30mm longer each way otherwise - but hey, its still good enough! I am using the same parts for the intakes on the other 2 holes with pressure pipe that goes up about 100mm with an end cap on and various holes drilled around the top.

i think most remove filter wool, i did. doesnt achieve too much in the long term. dont even think about drilling a tank unless its completely emptied!

i hope that "nice red colour" aint cyano

my 5 footer will be sitting on 12mm ply over a timber frame. i have 3 x 3x2's running along the length of the tank, one on each side and one straight down the middle. all lengths are furthur supported crossways by 4 x 3x2's - giving it 8 legs. I think timber is sufficient so long as no cross section is able to bow and its reinforced where ever reinforcing it needed! My entire stand sits on another stand that is nailed to the floor. This stand has 6x2's laid flat along the floor (to disperse the weight evenly across the floor joists) with a large amount of timber in cross sections - feels as strong as a concrete slab but without the massive weight I estimate with the tank, stand, water and all the live rock, it will be in excess of 1 ton.

aye carumba... http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/tank/80g_sump.html very hard to see where one baffle starts and the other finishes!

i would also go 10mm, my current 4 footer is 10mm and its sweet. also consider, if you think your stand is not 100% level and you have no way of fixing it, to use a double thickness of polystyrene under the tank. i have some 15mm poly when my 5 footer goes in this weekend but I am seriously considering going 20mm - 30mm instead. With the extra weight of the rocks it will take up those extra deviations you may have in the stand.

novakey solvent cement (plumbers glue) from any plumbing store. paste on inside of fitting and outside of pipe then push together and hold for 30 seconds. immediately wipe any excess glue off the pipe (and off the inside if possible) bonds the pvc together by essentially "melting" it. very strong and if done properly, leak proof. make sure you leave 24 hours then give it a bloody good rinse out (preferably with salt water!) dont get that stuff on your hands or you'll know about it pretty damn quick!

perhaps. i think a shit load of holes will be sufficient.

pies - where who when???!!! i want to buy some and setup my sump so if the water level drops below a certain level it automatically switches off the return pump (coz it cant run dry) i've only seen some from these guys: http://www.accurate.co.nz/LevelSwitches.htm Im also going to have the power switch in the sump room for the return pump be controlled by a switch upstairs near the back of the tank (so if a pipe bursts while im upstairs i can flick the pump off quickly) not sure if I will have this switch control just the pump or power to the whole room. What do you reckon?

u may have seen them before, I hadnt, thought id share. am going to use the pvc idea for drain to refugium and update to the tower later: http://www.dfwmas.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard/ikonboard.cgi?s=c2b644b766035c23a5fed813f4b1e955;act=ST;f=1;t=4808

you better hope that puppy dont crack!

some very good sump designs here: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/melevsreef/links.html

if it was me, i'd get both ugf and cannister filter. ugf isnt too much more $$$. heater for that size tank - 2 would be beneficial incase one fails, but if you're on a budget, a single 250W would be ok.

cheers, thats what i figured, just wanted to make sure!

can the chiller sit below the sump? is it simply a matter of having a pump strong enough to push water down to the chiller then back up into the sump again? what sort of pump is recommended in general here?