breakaway

According to 'the fertilator' (a fert caluclator) from Aquatic Plant Central, the ideal amount of phospates is 0.5-2.0 PPM, and nitrates is 10-20 PPM

If you're going planted try to get one that isn't too high. Longer is better than higher - because that way light can reach the bottom for substrate plants.

Phospate removing media, not overfeeding. But plants need phospates to grow. I'm pretty sure removal of phospates will have other effects - more exprienced amongst us feel free to correct these statement(s).

I think you misunderstand. 3 Exams per day for people who supervise / run the examination sessions. Not 3 exams per day for students... Typical AU student

Also remember manufacturer flow rates are probably quoted with zero head and no media, or media baskets present.

There are some brackish puffers - commonly referred to as 'green spotted puffer' or 'figure 8 puffer' http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green_spotted_puffer http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetraodon_fluviatilis http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetraodon_nigroviridis Whichever one(s) you get, make sure you research them well so you can provide the best possible care for them.

How come the PMDD advertised on trademe only contains the follwoing: Magnesium Sulfate Potassium Sulfate Trace element mix Potassium nitrate I thought trace elements is what people refereed to as "micro" and NPK (Nitrogen, Potassium, Phospates) is what is referred to as "macro" ferts. So where's the phospates in the above mix? And, what exactly is "trace elements" comprised of? Is it a set of chemical compounds mixed together, or is it something you buy from a gardening shop? Not knocking Hans here, I'm just trying to figure out whats' what.

That's why I'm trying to find out where I can buy these chemicals from direct, so I can mix myself.

I mean the powder stuff. This stuff http://www.trademe.co.nz/Home-living/Pe ... 891012.htm These guys have obviously obtained and mixed the chemicals, where do they get them from is what I'm asking. I'm also asking which specific dry ferts are needed (as in, names of chemical compounds) Interesting. So according to the chart I found on the planted tank forum: they only reckon you should dose nitrates and phospates? No potassium? Now I am _Thoroughly_ confused. What is "Trace" comprised of?

As in title. I've been using Seachem Flourish line of products, but have no desire to drop upwards of $75 on a set of N,P,K, bottles that only last a few months. I always took this approach because frankly, dosing bare chemicals scares me a little, and I don't understand half the chemical names. It's very confusing when you ask "What ferts should I use" and get told 3/4 tsp of KN2S04901X3, 5/7 tsp of KN4OX, and so on (you get the idea ) But it's time to further my knowledge. My understanding of planted tanks are pretty basic. I understand that Macro and Micro nutrients are needed for a thriving system, along with CO2 enriched water and high light. I have high light (2x39w, and another 2x39w sitting unused that I can use anytime) and pressurised CO2. Currently just dosing Flourish Comprehensive / NPK as per bottle instructions. I understand this is not ideal. I want to try E.I. dosing with High CO2 and High Light. I got this from the planted tank forum, it's a recommended dosing regime for 40-60 Gal (~200L) tanks, which is my tank size. Unfortunately, most of it is gibberish to me: I'm guessing KN03, KH2P04 are chemicals? Wher do I get these? Also, what is "GH booster", and is it absolutely necessary? I've never come across this before. Also, it says "2-4ml Fe/Iron 3 x a week". What does that mean? Iron in what concentration? Surely they don't mean pour melted iron in the tank Any help appreciated.

What ferts are you using, and what is your dosage regime?

Any update on the hair algae situation? I tried everything to get rid of mine - increasing CO², E.I. dosing Macro + Micro nutrients almost every day of the week with 50% weekly water changes, additional power heads, less light. Eventually gave up and tore it down, just put it back up and it's doing much better. Now I'm afraid to dose ferts :-?

Puffers do have their own personality, I'd try getting both to co-exist. I released a tiny guppy fry into my puffer tank thinking it'd be a quick meal for them, but they weren't even interested in it. It grew to a huge size before I removed it from the tank. They didn't seem bothered by it at. Definitely worth setting up a species tank for them, they're such great fish to watch (especially when they pick their sleeping spot at night!)

Yeah ok gatito, will take em if you need to find them a new home.

Alright have just had these fish breed again. Did a water change (I have 3 males, 3 females in my 200L heavily planted CO2 rich tank) and 4 of them paired up and started breeding. Syphoned out 3 eggs. Also have 1 fry that is 2 months old, and doing well. Has anyone else had any luck at breeding these fish?

Update: After medicating with PimaFix for 1 week exactly and then doing a big water change, he looks great. Have since moved him into my 40L heavily planted CO² enriched tank.

Looks a lot like the hollywood fish farm mt roskill tank Could be mistaken though.

I am also *very* cross that this perpetuates the myth that rotweilers are aggressive by nature and will attack anything anytime. The general public already has this idea in their head I bet. Also, I love the photo of the vicious looking rottwiler on the nz harold's article. It's no longer about journalism. It's all about getting hits and ad revenue. http://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/artic ... sholefever

Prolly didn't help that most animates staff (IME) have been people who simply don't know anything about animals. Edit: Read article, looks like I was right.

How big is the tank, how many watts is your heater, and how cold is your house?

Fair enough, but setting up a sump is a million times more work than using a cannister. To set up a sump you have to sort out overflow systems. The most simple one is to drill a hole in the tank high up for an overflow. This isn't really recommended on tanks that have already been built as it can apparently weaken the glass and cause the whole thing to crack. Then you have to worry about overflows blocking, return pumps, etc. Then there's the whole issue of making it quiet (if needed). You say you have to take the tubes out of the tank every time you clean it? That isn't right. Don't you have a valve near where thet tubes go into the canister? I know almost all the cannisters do, including the cheap ones. All you have to do is close this valve, then un-hook the pipes. Once you are done cleaning, you hook all the pipes back up, open the valves so the water drains into the cannister from your tank (the syphon is maintained as the intake hose is never taken out of the water). Then plug it in, and you're away - the filter will just start running. No need to shag about with priming it etc.

Same, I paid $200 for my 3.5 bottle from a commerical filling place that mainly serves corporates.

What's so bad about cannister filters? If you set them up properly, they are quiet, provide great water quality, require hardly any maintenance, and for many years without incident. The maintenance is important though. Got to check things like o-rings and stuff otherwise you'll come home to a tank drained onto the carpet and your fish swimming around in 2" of water.

That looks great!

100w at least. Better safe than sorry.