breakaway

Not really, but they are compact. Hence the name PC (Power Compact). They're great for places where space is a restriction. If you can fit T5HOs, do it. Also see ODNO -- overdriving normal output lamps - http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/plant ... -odno.html PS, don't burn down your house.

Overnight, we've lost 2 more. The Remaining 2 two look like they're circling the drain. Water parameters are good as gold. Any ideas on what could be causing this? I noticed no behavioural changes last night when feeding them brine shrimp. All of them ate to their fill.

Took it back and got a 25W Aqua One Cylindrical heater. Tank is at 25.5-26.5 degrees even during cold nights.

What's so cool about this glass?

There isn't, pretty much. I got lucky with my 39W Glo T5HO Fixtures. Scored em cheap on trademe. Retail price is about $300, each.

If you want to buy it from HFF, triple the price. Dehumidifier not necessary. Just air out the room every now and then and you'll be alright.

Just continue with CO2. That looks like the kind of algae that every new tank gets. All the tanks I've ever run have had them. They usually go away after a bit.

Just got back home and found one dead Down to 4 now + 1 newly hatched egg.

Managed to get some clear photos of them after moving them to bare bottomed dedicated fry-raising tank.

Correct. Photos: http://fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic. ... 0&start=60

Damn Ira, do you always have to be so negative, All he's getting at is that some of us who share a passion could maybe donate a few hours of our time to getting forbidden species (things like stingrays, freshwater tropical shrimp) etc on the import list. I'm sure there is slot of work an slot of technical/report writing involved in getting these species approved. Also once it's all done, no one stands to gain anything from this bar the fact that they get to keep the fish. This ispprbay why no one has bothered with it - once the species is on the approved list anyone can import them. You don't get exclusive rights or anything, so definitely no monetary gains to be had

Is there a guide somewhere that details the procedure for putting an organism on the import list? I've seen sporadic information about it posted here on the forums but nothing detailed / official.

I thought the 1 watt / 1 litre rule that's thrown around would stay true, but guess not. At the moment I'm having to run a heater to keep the room warm, and even then the heater can barely manage 23°. Will be taking it back at my earliest convenience.

Bought one of these heaters recently, as I'm building a small planted setup. Figured the space I save would be good. The tank it's used on is a AQ-World Panorama 12. That's a 12L bow front aquarium. I figured once I account for all the gravel I put into it, plants, etc, the total water volume will be under 10L, so the Marina C10 (rated for 10L max) should be fine. Now I've had it running for 2 days. The heater hasn't turned off at all (I can see the little light on it is on 24/7) and the temperature of the tank won't come up. When I close the doors to the room (small room) and run my heater, the temperature starts coming up to 24 (I have verified by using two different digital aqua one thermometers and one stick-on gauge that the temperature readout is correct). The highest I've ever seen it is 24.5° C. I've ensured good circulation in the aquarium etc but it just doesn't seem to be working. I just got home from work ant it was sitting at 20.4° C. What's the story? Is this heater simply too small for this tank? It's apparently rated for 10L tanks though, so it should be fine shouldn't it? At the same time I have a 40L tank running with a 50W heater and it seems to have no problems maintaining temps,.

I just set up a HoB in my puffer fry tank. Bought a sponge from LFS and shoved the intake into it to prevent little fry from getting sucked in. They could fit through the provided strainer easily.

Just bought a nano to set up as a planted tank, and I'm wondering what sort of color temps I need. The LEDs I'm looking at buying come in 3 colors: 1. 6500K (Cool White) 2. 4300K (Warm White) 3. 2600K-3700K (Neutral White) There are also red, blue and green LEDs available. Wavelengths below: 1. Red: 620 nm 2. Blue: 475 nm 3. Royal Blue: 450 nm 4. Green: 520 nm Now what wavelength would be best to run for optimal plant growth? (I will be supplementing the lights with CO² and ferts.) I guess 6500K will do right? If needed I can mix in some reds in to get a 'warmer' color temperature. I'm going to get 6 LEDs to start off with cos the tank is pretty small. I'm thinking 3 @ 6500K and 3 @ 4300K, hoping this will give a similar type of output compared to my T5HO fixture. What sort of wavelengths/temperatures are optimal for plants? a Any help appreciated!

Just saw them breed again today, was only able to get one egg out after syphoning the area

Does excel work for hair algae infestations?

I filled my 200L tank with the help of my mrs. Used a long garden hose, and just yelled out to her when it was full :lol:

Another update - took a couple of videos of the fry eating brine shrimp. They're about a month old now. And some more photos:

Oops, bad move I reckon. That'll be running out in a month or so time and you'll spend a fortune on refills. Shoulda saved the extra money and got a conventional reg from ebay + a CO2 bottle, and it would last about 8 months. Anyway let us know how it goes.

Re: Re: Fwd: Fwd: Re: Fwd: THIS IS SO FUNNY! :bounce:

Colour is no problem, the meds are in the water. Double check your filter to make sure there is no activated carbon in it. I treated my community tank with the same stuff, it did exactly what you are describing, and all my fish survived. Even the 3 platy fry were fine.

You'd be better off asking here http://forums.se-nse.net/index.php?act=home

How many days are brine shrimp "good" for? I'm using them to feed my baby puffers but always hatch a new batch every 3 days.