Caryl

Hi Archer and welcome. Hope to see more of you and pics of your fish

We have our own monetary system. We do not use US dollars

ET didn't do a thing for me! :lol:

I am sure you like them very much but I personally don't like the snake necks, they give me the creeps :roll: At least red eared turtles are cute

I wouldn't put one with Africans. Different water requirements for a start.

I see the most users they have had online is 111. :lol:

No idea. Your description doesn't give enough information to tell what the lump actually is.

One of our members feeds her tinfoils a lettuc eleaf every day to stop them decimating her plants. It's working so far...

Sorry for the delay in reply - been away. Great pics as usual sue. I have been using sue's pics in the AW pegasus.

It is expensive stuff to use and unnecessary. I have never bothered with it at all.

1. Java fern is commonly attached to driftwood as is Java moss. Anubias is another. They can be wedged into a split in the wood or tied down with fishing line or cotton. 2. There is a range of bulbs available for plants. Fish don't care about the light but some look better under certain spectrums. Plants are more particular. I don't know what they are supposed to be but I just use daylight and bright white fluorescents. 3. Silicone can be bought from places like Mitre 10 and Placemakers. Make sure it is aquarium safe. 4. I don't think a submersible camera would necessarily give bettre pics than any other sort. It depends on how you use it. 5. Neon could have a cyst, a cancerous growth, a secondary wound infection, or a genetic defect.

I belong to their forum and find the people there very helpful with good advice.

I have used those short fluoros on small tanks just pugging them into a short extension cord and sitting them on the glass lid with an old cut-off piece of plastic guttering for a cover. Line the guttering with aluminium foil to get more reflection.

Welcome Henry. I suggest you join the Kapi-Mana Aquarium Club. Several of their members are regulars here eg Jane, Joze, and Interfecus (and Ira I think)

Java would be the only plant to stand a chance I think

Tropical Blues are actually in Tirau

You don't have to take the males out. All the fish will eat the fry and the females do not look after them at all. From birth it is every fry for itself! Temperature can be anything from 22 - 27. 25 is usually the norm. Leave the airstone as it will not hurt the fry or upset them.

These fish have eggs inside them. If they are fertilised they grow and the fish gives birth (or spawns) to fry. If they do not get fertilised then nothing happens. Like humans, we have eggs inside us too but nothing happens if they don't get fertilised. You will know if the fish has been fertilised as she will get fatter and fatter. A tank with lots of fine leaved plants for the newborn fry to hide in is required as most livebearers are also happy to eat the fry as fast as they are born. What they miss, the other inhabitants go for. Livebearers not only don't need the male kept with them, they then don't need the male for the next 3 - 4 months as they can store the sperm and produce then next 3 or 4 batches on their own. To get livebearers to breed you need 1 male to 2 or more females and leave them to it. They will know what to do 8) Depending on temperature, livebearers will produce new babies (spawn) every 4 - 6 weeks.

Hi joelay and welcome to the fishroom. Another forum which will be of great benefit to you (and is UK based) is www.thetropicaltank.co.uk. They have some excellent advice in their Beginners Section.

Definitely sick lid

OK lets go back to the beginning. How long has the tank been going since you cleaned it out? Remind us what size it is please. What filtration has it got and what fish are left? What tests have you been doing and what are the readings? What is the temp and pH sitting at now?

It is 6 weeks anton and a very long tedious process on a par with Australia - if not worse.

Eddie, from Petworld, died recently so that might be why they have not had any regular shipments lately.

Nice pics Anton!

The information sheet with my nitrate test kit says... Nitrate level of 20 - 30ppm is sufficient for most routine maintenance. Levels should be kept below 20ppm for critical work such as breeding. Levels above 30ppm indicate the need for more frequent water changes. I always thought it best to keep below 20ppm.