nycnlo

haha yeah def good measuring scales would be good failing that just had a idea if you took a furan 2 capsul (too the instructions of 1 tab per 37.5 litres)?? think thats rite (dont have furan 2 here to confirm) took say 375mils of sterile water (or boiled water to kill bacteria) added the furan capsule and mixed until totally dissolved then used the formula 10mils per litre to add that to the coke bottle so you would add 15mils per 1.5litres... (use a syringe (without needle) from chemist to measure) you could then put the left over in a bottle and use until you are finished dosing 2-3times etc dont know how long it would last. but if its boiled water the bacteria level should be down so should last a while just a idea.. principal should work

with spawning just take your time.. if you rush ul endup with damaged or dead breeders let alone no spawns it can take time to get a sucessful spawn , and def alot of time once they do are free swimming onwards and space once bigger ive got a tank with 140-150 halfmoon fry that are growing fast.. going to have to seperate into two tanks soon have already seperated some of my red halfmoon spawn as starting to play fight

temps around 30 speed up the lifespan of whitespot... fighters can tolerate 30-32deg ,,, jst dont have any other fish in the tank as they dont like it.. this will get rid of whitespot quicker just raise slowly tho

id second the blue circle white spot treatment if you regulrly dose with rock salf in the aquarium this reduces the chances of catchn most fish diseases in the aquarium its a good and cheap preventative medicine if you dont have white spot treatment, id use wondertonic to treat

thats def early stages of white spot not the worst case ive seen but def would get out of hand if you dont treat.. it will coat him in days if not treated

white spot is basicallly a round spore... so yep 3d its temperature fluctuation more than anything say if tank gets colder overnight and warms up during the day etc (can happen alot more often now as temps are warming up ).. sudden ph change might also play a part. most fish shops water is around 7-7.4 i generally try and add small amount of your tank water in bag.. and float bag in water for half hour.. and add more water into bag then re float for another halfhour etc then id net the fish out of bag and disgard the water (incase fish shop had any thing in the water your minimising exposure ) sometimes il put them in quarantine tank for 10-14days before introducing into my aquarium... as 14days a good incubation period and usually shows signs by then if going to get anything

white spot will kill i it gets out of control if left untreated the white spots (spores) will basically explode and become microscopic.. once this happens its very hard to control and will pretty much kill everything unless you shock dose the tank with white spot cure etc white spot can stay dormont in the tank but doesnt take much to trigger it.. generally white spot is associated to temperature fluctuations of more than 2degrees or constant change in temps.. id check your heater to be safe... could be associated with the new fish introduction from fish shop/ temp drop on way home etc? or the tank in shop being at 24.. and your home one being alot higher etc and not warming/equalizing the bag before releasing if you catch it early enuf ul be sweet

id prob leave the filter wool just remove any carbon etc as this will remove the meds from the water

treat the whole tank if hes been in there treat the lot to be safe the cycle lives for about 14days so id treat and keep repeating to kill it properly

haha the pen prob makes him wonder what on Earth is in his face so he flares at it plus guess it resembles a sort of fish shape lol

hey peat adds tannins to the water which subsequently lowers ph and drops the KH (hardness) so it does have some benefits

nice coloring sam yup twinkles got it right and i do the same thing with mine what happens if they see each other all day long they seem to stop flaring altogether by carding them off you can either let them see each other or by using a mirror train them to flare at you eventually removing the mirror altogether and getting them to flare at you once they see you its quite amazing i had a really welll trained halfmoon male who used to let you pat him . would eat from your fingers and flare on demandor when you walked into the room... sadly he died havent had the time to train any others up lately plus i had a delta that i managed to train / excersise till his spread was about 180-190 degres you wouldnt even had known he was a delta looked like a halfmoon

haha .. if you isolate them from all other fish.. say block off all walls around the tank and give them 20mins a day of viewing of each other this drastically increases their rays and promotes fin growth this also is how you make fighters flare on demand ie put a mirror up and train them to flare when you want

id go #1 is close to hm, but technically super delta ... with some mirror training etc he will go halfmoon easy.. #2 id say super delta as its close to 180 just got a wee bit to go

fair enuf.. some of the fighters are just skinny dont try fatten him up too much just try feeding more regularly but dont overfeed

did you buynow on the female? i asked the buynow to be added on there for all the fish she had.. but really wanted all 4 of them to make it worth shipping down the the cold south

pretty intense coloring difffent tho

yeah a ipdate would be good

id say def not finrot...the pik shows the top fin ripped id go with attacked

hahah yeah i didnt have a clue what it was when i were first told about it! i figured it was a jbl novo product just never seen or heard of it before

yup it def fouls the bottom of tank if you over feed.. im getting the hang of how much my fry eat each meal at moment so keeping it to a minimum . def think you cant beat baby brine shrimp .. its just so labour/time comsuming i just try give them one decent meal of BBS per day and Novotom the rest

yup id agree with you there Ron its good to get some different fish with spawns..better than all the same

most places that stock the jbl novo range should stock if not be able to get it for you i got my first bottle from bubble and squeek chch but i had ordered a bottle from redwood aquatics also so now i have a spare doesnt hurt to have backups tho yeah pays to feed more often of less amounts to stop fouling i think they took to the novotom straight away guess cos they are smaller than decap i guess

novotom is a very fine powdered food... its about 10% atermia (baby brine shrimp) they seem to like it and it give them the same bellys as they get when eating fresh BBS plus has lots of other things in it to premote fry growth etc it took a wee bit of tracking down for me to get some down here its great for me cos its a real hassle trying to feed BBS before work for me since i generally running late... so its easy to sprinkle a small amount in the fry tanks. i still feed decap occ also i find microworms are a good starter for fry .. cos they dont generally eat too many and they stay alive in the tank for longer without polluting in early stages

haha thats a classic about the door bells!