phoenix44

waves hands madly in the air. :bounce:

yeh! :lol: I also used plants and leaves and stuff. they can get pneumonia?

well I only used to use a piece about 5sqcm big in a 1sq ft tank, so i used to put the food in another area and he would eat. since the water level was lowered, the female was easy to remove and so was the male once the fry were free swimming. have I been doing it wrong all this time?

Nice. what ya gonna grow? 8)

I used to use cling film.

use a lower K rated bulb. that has worked for me. some leaves go to the top, but not as many. with 18000K ALl the leaves went to the top with 10000K a few did and with 6500 K only a couple did

I already have set up a tank in anticipation! :lol:

well, see if they appear on the import list - i know there are lots for sale from singapore, and malayasia - countries that our importers often import from anyways. as long as there is demand from this end - and the technical know-how on this end (you can't just keep shrimp in any conditions and with any old fish) they will automatically be available here cause they will be imported. then it just lies on shops to order them in, keep them alive (they are pretty delicate and this will be a deterrent for many) and us (the public) to breed them.

I second the cherry reds!

Does any one on here, apart from me trade on Oanda? (long shot I know but you never know who trades!).

I may be able to purchase 6 for my tank :bounce:

Thanks guys now you're just showing off hahahaa :lol: I like bright light cause then I can see the fish and stuff. The rotala likes this light too :lol:

:lol: i don't need that much light (it's HO as well so even brighter), but its all I have so they get it. plus on the next planted tank all that hardware will come in handy. I can hide that tube completely sam, its just that i cant be bothered moving all that rock and the ottos like playing on it.

oh you mean the air pipe? :lol: glad I thought of that :lol: dunno. got it at animates. its silicone tubing. its green. its just one of those days LOL

That is the full tank! I was standing far back! :lol: that's all 4 feet of it. what blue tubes? the only lighting on it at the moment is 108W of t5 HO lighting @ 18000K the other marine blue and 6800K tubes are off :lol: the africans or the plecos? or the loaches? :lol: the africans? the dems and yellows will be ok in a 3ft x 1.5 x 1.5+ tank (bigger = better). so many questions! :lol:

hi wellmax! The whole purpose of the air stone (apart from aesthetics) is to create water flow and movement. only about 2-3% of the bubbles allow for oxygen diffusion. The rest of the oxygen diffusion takes place at the surface of the water when there is (or is supposed to be) constant water movement. That is why some people leave a couple of inches of space from the top of their tank even thought they have a lid on top of the tank. (I personally just create a lot of water flow, and fill the tank all the way to the top).

Its been a long time since I updated with new pics of my tank. The massive java fern on the LHS is harbouring many babies and a few mother fish, and all the rock work under it has more babies too Critique please :lol:

It is good practise to slowly increase and/or decrease the temperature if there are fish and sensitive plants in the tank. so yes. slowly :lol: (I can be such a prat sometimes :lol: ).

28C is what i would do.

sorry m8, didn't see this before. I feed them tetra's spirulina flakes. But they are naughty and eat hikari aro pellets and cichlid gold as well - those are meant for the loaches, but it makes the africans grow like mad. they also like pecking away at cucumber and algae tablets.

you'll be fairly surprised what an agro fish can do. oscars are predatory, not necessarily aggressive. (that was the time out tank, not where it lived)

say hi to the pope!! hope you are having an awesome time!

I literally pissed my self laughing! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Havoc sounds like he could be a midas cichlid or something similar. I used to have one that was very much the same. he ate everything, oscars, terrors and jack dempseys included.

please please, do some research on google scholar on inbreeding and the effects on genotypes and phenotypes. past practises of culling dogs (that were bred from wolves) have lead to breeds such as labs and bulldogs etc. labs are now prone to joint and bone disorders and well.. bulldogs need to be artificially inseminated. tiny dogs are prone to low blood sugar... the list goes on. In order to "fix" your genetic problems - you need to introduce new blood so that there is greater genetic variation and diversity. that way more dominant traits take over the lesser uncommon traits. with fish - most people do inbreed them; but even the most pedantic breeders will try sourcing new blood for their lines if they can. (hypothetical) Think of a situation where someone breeds a guppy for its red eyes - finally gets a spawn of pure red eyed babies (by crossing back and what have you) and it just so happens that the gene for red eyes also means that the fish is almost completely blind. the generations prior to this would have produced some normal eyed offspring, most of which would have carried the gene for red eyes. there is a good chance that the red eyed babies from the black eyed guppies are not blind. culling the black eyed babies only mucks up your only chance of having a semi normal guppy. (the rrrr gene {red eye, eye disorder} would only be carried by the fish that are being selected for, while the RRrr (black eye, with red eye genes not expressed are fine). now im not too concerned about guppy genetics to be honest - the odds of an aquarium strain making it in the wild are too slim - but you should not cull any thing based on a phenotypical trait, cause all you are doing then is narrowing the genetic pool, and then your strain of fish will all be susceptible to the same problems, so 1 infection could ruin all your years of hard work.

That is not true for the eheims and fluvals. The flow rate for them (varies from model to model) is determined by a new cannister setup below the tank, at the appropriate height levels that are mentioned in their respective user manuals.