Adrienne

As you already know, the goldfish bowl is too small for them and the weather is too warm for them. The build up of ammonia in the bowl combined with the warmer weather causing warmer water is depleting the oxygen supply. As Ira says - any surface movement will help but ultimately they need a decent sized tank and filter as soon as possible. Water changes and/or an oxy shell are only a band aid which are unlikely to stop the bleeding. TBH you would be better placing them in a bath.

Hollywood fish farm Mt Roskill have 11 for $20 at the moment.

Yes they are

Is she was in a tank with a male or males it's pretty much guaranteed that she will be. You might be able to see the gravid spot just to the front of and above the anal passage which will go very dark and you may see eyes as well. If she is, before she has fry her stomach will kind of look square. Females can carry fry between 4 -6 weeks, and can also produce young for up to six months after being fertilised just once as they store the sperm. If she is in a heavily planted tank some fry will survive, as they will hide once they are born. If not, the female or other tank mates are likely to eat the majority of them.

Okay so if its new and wobbling it is either not put together properly, the carpet and/or floor are not even, or it is faulty. Seeing as you have said the tank is even it either has to be not put together properly or it is faulty. Do you have all the locking units in place for the stand and clipped in fully? Did you put all the dowels in or do you have pieces left over? just out of interest how wobbly is a bit wobbly? Doe it move side to side or forwards and backwards?

If the tank and stand are brand new and the floor is even it should not be wobbly when put together. I wouldn't fill it as if it collapses it will void any warranty and your parent's insurance company will not pay for any damage.

Sometimes it happens when the fish are weak/unwell/getting older and are not able to swim against the current. You could put a piece of netting (like a fish net) over the intake strainer or you can get sponges which sit over the filter intake. If your filter is on continually and working properly he would not have been able to come up the outlet.

I absolutely agree with Alan on this one. Baby discus will be cheap anyway and anything under 8cm in size, which if decent will sell for at least $80 per fish, is not suitable for a beginner. Discus require specific and pristine water conditions. Baby discus require daily 90 -100% water changes for months, and are very susceptible to flukes which can wipe the whole lot out in a matter of hours. Once they reach 8cm in size you can get away with 2 decent sized 30 -50% water changes once a week. They also require high quality feeding - 5+ times a day when they are young and the left over food needs to be siphoned out after a few minutes so the water doesn't become polluted. FYI discus should grow 1cm min per month of age until around 15 months when they reach maturity and can be sexed (you need to wait until they have spawned and hatched eggs to get a confirmed pair). The price per cm of discus is a minimum of $10. There are a lot of rubbishy looking discus on the market so you need to research and know what you are looking for before you purchase.

If you have a pair that would be perfect. They are anabantoids so give that a google and research the breeding of them, feeding of fry and raising them. JJWooble on here has her Honey Gourami Breeding so if you look under the breeding section and make contact with her she can help you on the finer points of Honey Gourami. I would also imagine that they would be a fish that is easy to sell as not many people seem to breed them. NB bubble nests don't mean you have a pair - it does mean that you have a male though.

The answer to that last question is none. Barbs are nippy fish.

Most cichlids will care for their young, although often only one parent will take on the job.

For spawning or raising? IMO 50 litres will suffice for the actual spawning although others will say more. Angel fish like a lot of water over their heads so the size of the tank will in part depend on the size of the pair you have- remembering angels can be over 15cm from fin tip - tip.

Ask on these forums for mature fish - be specific as to what you want and include it and your location in the title. Also Auckland Fishkeepers which is one of the FNZAS (these forums and website are the FNZAS) clubs has its own facebook group which you may wish to join up on and ask there as well. Keep an eye out for people selling on here and possibly on trademe but for some species, if you are breeding you want to be sure it is a pure breed, trademe is not always going to give you that - no matter what some sellers tell you.

Nice looking set ups

It really depends what you want to breed - there are the livebearers like guppies, mollies, swordtails however if you want to be sure of the parentage ie get pure colours etc then you need to buy the females as virgin females, ie never been in a tank with a male before. For egg scatterers I would suggest something like rosy barbs, golden barbs, over the neons whose eggs are light sensitive and once you have raised the fry of the barbs to young adults then give something more difficult a go. You already have angels, do you have a pair of those and if so, have they successfully bred and raised fry? I see in another thread you mentioned cory. They are a good one to start with but you will need several females to a male and they need to be at maturity before they will breed. The eggs are best collected and hatched away from the rest of the cory as often while one lays, the others come along and eat them up.

Tetras (any) are unlikely to nip your angels fins however your angels will nip at and eat any that fit in their mouths. So bigger tetra like lemon, pristella, diamon might be okay, rummynose once they are bigger should be fine. If you have angels that pair up nothing will be safe. Neons, cardinals are no good apart from being a food source for your adult angels. Sometimes it may just depend on the temperament of your angels. I have mine as the only mid-upper level fish in my tank apart from my SAE. Then I have corys for the bottom level. They have a well planted and heavily driftwood laden tank to hide in if necessary.

No worries. If you have not bred fish before - particularly egg scatterers - you might be better to look at a species that are easier to start off with.

What type? Diamond, pristella, cardinal etc etc. HFF and New Pupuke both have bulk purchase deals going.

If you go to the top of this page and look under fish - articles you will find a guide to breeding cardinal tetras. Neons are very similar.

They are also on here. There are a number of experienced breeders who do not belong to the facebook page.

Looks good. I would be interested to know what sort of flow reduction you are getting with the bend in the bulkheads. What else do you have hooked up to the filter outlet at the filter end?

It is only possible to have next to 0 nitrate in a cycled tank if a massive water change has been done, or the plants in your tank are so heavily planted they are sucking up the nutrients. So it is not impossible that you have next to 0 but it is unlikely.

I know that some pet shops (Hollywood Fish Farm) take the sale of any turtles very seriously, questioning potential buyers and advising them of everything they need to know before selling. The trouble is as Alanmin says - everyone wants babies that are cute, so as the turtles mature they are released or left to wander around properties where eventually they head off into the unknown. I would hate for the same thing to happen as in the States where the lakes are chocker of RES.

http://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=11560238&ref=NZH_FBpage

Put what you have in to the tank and start with that and then, if you want add a piece or two, or a kg of it to speed everything up. Live rock is hard to get hold of and if you do get it sometimes holds undesirables anyway ie bubble algae, aptasia. Once you add live rock you will need to add something to the tank to feed the bacteria in the rock anyway. The only reason I chose not to add crabs is that the hermit crab needs a selection of shells in the tank to choose its next home from or it kills off the snails for the shells. Instead, unfortunately I managed to introduce a crab which after a year I managed to catch (at which stage it had started to nibble my corals). It came in with a piece of live rock as I saw it scurry off when I put the rock in to the tank Also check your messages as I have sent you one