
davidb
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Everything posted by davidb
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you wouldn't be able to put any fish in a 2 gal. a shrimp might work (A small species however.) Corals would probably be limited to zoas, button polyps and the like. Have you looked up on http://www.nano-reef.com/ ? good info there. oh and read what i wrote on http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/hi-the ... 21836.html also for a quick rundown on reef tanks. (especially regarding stability in such a small water size)
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i'm busy at the moment doing Uni work co i have a marine bio exam this week but i'll put some pics up this weekend 4 sure. u wanted to see cricket setup and locust setup also aye?
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roaches are easy to breed and raise- hard thing is keeping them fro escaping. i use silicon spray on glass fish tanks to stop them climbing
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i always thought it was TUBIFEX, sincere apologies mr. policemean :oops:
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cool. send me a vial of the stuff! unfortunatly davidb is a robot so he doesn't have blood!
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The key thing is to do a lot of research. If you are only wanting fish and no corals that sort of tank would be ok, although you would need to put alot more effort in if you wanted corals etc. I would recommend a much larger tank as the water parameters would remain a lot more stable. have a look at the tanks on this site- quite a few people have done mods in 620T's to make them ok for saltwater. but basically you need to do a lot of reading before you buy and realize everyone has different opinions and often there is more than one right. Good starting spots for reading up on tanks are: - http://advancedaquarist.com/ - http://www.reefcentral.com/ and our very own- here- http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/saltwater-vf5.html also these are a help- http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/links- ... t7074.html onto the tank: Tank itself: I would recommend a medium size tank for a beginner. 100-200 Litres would be good as it is not too big to be overly expensive or high maintenance, but not to small that controlling water-parameters becomes difficult due to such a small water volume. Sumps are optional, some have them others don't. The purpose of sumps is to have somewhere to stick a larger Protein skimmer, heaters etc, and to increase the water volume of the tank Filtration: There is little debate about filtration these days. The two accepted methods used include high skimming and high feeding, or natural filtration through refugiums, using macro-algaes to remove nutrients from the water, many people use combinations between the two. In New Zealand, the trend seems to be towards the first, with high feeding and high skimming, and using live rock as a filtration system. Bioballs are generally not used in marine setups and generally the only mechanical filtration used on Marine tanks is filter wool or a micron filter bag to remove particulates, replaced frequently (eg. on a weekly basis) Substrate: Another topic under constant debate. Bare bottom is the easiest method as crud is less likeley to get stuck. Barebottom also allows for more water movements without causing sand-storms. DSB stands for Deep Sand Bed and refers to a sand bed more than about 5cm thick. These Sand beds are not meant to be disturbed and can build up a vast array of critters which can help in Nutrient export, they are also more likeley to Crash however- resulting in a Nutrient Spike, so one must be careful. SSB stands for Shallow sand bed amd pretty much all it does is makes the tank took nicer if you like the sand look. It is also good for people with organisms which rely on sand for homes etc, like some Gobies. Sand sifting gobies also prefer a sand bed for obvious reasons. Water Movement: If you run a sump- the first source of water movement are the return pump(/s) from the sump. Additional water movement can be suppled through Powerheads Closed Loops and wave boxes, although the latter two are generally only for larger tanks. Random water flow can be obtained by bouncing water flow from powerheads against a wall etc, or against another powerhead. Wavyseas are another form of random flow, as rotating returns. Lighting Lighting is only really crucial if you are planning on having corals. In a fish only tank, T8 lighting is fine, as it is only for you to see the fish with. Lighting is improving in leaps and bounds and now reefkeepers have the option of using T8's, T5's, Metal Halides, Power Compacts, VHO's, and now even LED's. However these are really only necessary for tanks with live corals. Testing kits In a FOWLR tank (Fish only with live rock tank), the only tests you will need to conduct ontop of the normal FW ones (Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, pH, Phosphate) would be the Alkalinity, and the salinity, measured with a hydrometer or ideally a refractometer. For reef tanks, tests should be conducted for Magnesium and Calcium also. Only add chemicals (Strontium, Molybdenum, Iodine etc) if you have test kits to measure them. I hope I haven't put you off setting up a Marine tank but these things are pretty much vital for marine organisms' wellbeing. I have heard far too many stories of people chucking some ASW (Artificial sea water) into an old tropical Freshwater tank with plastic plants, ceramic ornaments and gravel, and chucking some 'Nemos' in, only to wonder why they die...
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Tiger Hillstream Loach Sewellia/Balitora lineolata
davidb replied to purplecatfish's topic in General Breeding
i have one set up but just for my mekong puffer! -
hey oliver i can't see anything either!!! welcome back though-hope your tank is going well...
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yeah i have used that but its a bit expensive for what you get- veges!
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boils some lettuce, they love boiled lettuce. they will also eat spirulina flake food
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http://www.issg.org/database/species/ec ... &fr=1&sts=
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good going. that is a nice sized one. they have really short lifespans. our one is about 90cm tentacle to tentacle now and is looking a bit under the weather. keep a close look at his eyes Mark because that is the first indication they are unwell. That and he will quickly loose his apetite
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it doesn't sound like the fish is harmed in any way. its not a fungal infection growing on a gash. i would just keep an eye on him and if it starts looking worse again remove him and treat your tank
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what are the tank parameters?
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well that depends on what you want to use the sump for. my sump is pretty much just for my skimmer and to chuck my heater in etc so that they aren't in the tank. other benefits of a larger sump is that you will have more water-and "the solution to pollution is dilution." well dilution until you can do a water change anyhow... larger water-volumes also mean stabler tank paramaters- it makes sense if you think about it! If I made my own dream tank I would have it only 1000L or something, but I would have it connected to a really massive lagoon tank which would be 4000L or something. The tank would be BB and the Lagoon would have a deep sand bed and some of those awesome conches (the ones 30cm long) to eat up all the debris! I would also have some mangrove trees at the edge of the lagoon! but thats just me!!! Another benefit of a larger sump is that you can, as I have already said- have an isolated sand bed (extreme in the case of my 4000 L lagoon) and perhaps macro-algae, which, if you trim it regularly, can aid in Nutrient export. Miracle mud is another option to look into
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you don't really need CO2 imo in a brackish just because the planting density is not as great as a planted fw- the plants you use in brackish tanks are more tolrant and hardy (thats why they were chosen in the first place) so i i wouldn't use CO2
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pic didn't work sorry
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talk to greg at tanks 4 u. i made my own sump so i can't tell u how much he would charge. looks good though! flow right to left or left to right?
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wow how did you notice that chim? you must be good at wordfinds
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do that... i cant see why your Alk could be so low and your pH high either- with such a low alk your pH should be about 7.5!!!!
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GORGEOUS - perhaps clean the water drips off the front glass though!
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i think t should be broken, not droken Tom!
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What size fish & how many? For a 3ft we need more dimensions. in my 3 ft i have 10 fish i think. most of them will grow to 10 cm max except my CBB Where to get Live Rock? There is plenty of people on here in auckland which will sell you some. otherwise look on trademe What kind of Gravel to use? Don't use gravel in a marine setup- either coral balls or aragonite sand- i'd recommend bb to begin with though How to attach frags to rock, and what to use to make sure that the rocks don't move? for a 3 ft tank stacking rocks should be alright- if you want to stack them so they don't move use some quick cement- Alistair has some good stuff that he did some frag bases for me from, so ask him where he got it from... to attach frags to rocks most people use 2 part epoxy, some people use holes and pins fade from plastic like in this tank- http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-05/totm/index.php finally- do lots of reading good places to start are- http://www.reefcentral.com/ http://advancedaquarist.com/