davidb

They probably wont eat flake for a start until they have settled in, besides, there are better things for them. Try frozen bloodworm or mysis shrimp Depends on a variety of things, lighting etc Yes Many, as mentioned White spot is common when they are settling in, otherwise they are quite hardy but things always can go wrong down the track Well they aren't plants so they aren't too fussy! A single T8 tube should be enough so you can see them, dimmer the better provided your plants have enough (this depends on what species you have) and you can see them, especially if you dont have a chiller No they dont need caves You havent said how many inaga you have! dont use this as a preventative, clean water with stable parameters is much more important

Top is Goliath Bird Eater- Not living up to its name and eating a locust instead! Middle is a Mexican red knee, and Bottom is a Chilean Rose. Can be temperamental, and very delicate, need to monitor and adjust Humidity and Temp. Feel free to pop in for a visit Stella, I might even get the geckos or an avondale out for a play. Bit busy at the moment though, have a 7000 word report on community motivations for participatory involvement in wetland restoration projects- have done 2000 words so far and already have 29 references! Somehow have to fit my other lab reports etc in around the side!

Yeah these are at the Museum. I was in a bit of a rush and just snapped a couple of shots of everything after work one morning so yeah, I will probably need to go in and spend some time photographing them to get some good pics

yeah, these Morays are at the Museum, i have two yellows in there, caught out off Pauanui

Big Cray Native anemone. (And Aptasia- they do wonderfully in the coldwater, and look great filling up the Anemone tank.) Yellow Moray Clown and Nem Dory!

Giant Bully Banded Kokopu Inaga

thanks yeah, thats with my 400D. I have had to drop the quality a bit to upload them though. I will make a new thread with a bunch of photos

that media would probably do better if you dropped the water level anyway- increased oxygen and the fish couldn't get in it that way

yes, you need a zoo license

shouldn't you be at school?

yes Seachem makes a product called Phoszorb (sp?), probably the best product for your cash

not really. Axolotls do better in cooler water. Also, if the Axolotls get bigger they would eat small fish like Neons.

... and mine if you are ever up this way. Yes low lighting helps reduce stress on the natives, many of which are not used to bright lights (especially if they are wild caught).

good to hear LA!

you don't need the internal too if you are running the CF1200 unless you want to stock it really heavily of course.

sorry for stating the obvious but you have no snails hiding away somewhere do you? Pehaps put a piece of lettuce in to see if you can see any snails

is this collecting for a personal collection or for display? If it was me, I would feel a bit bad killing insects for a personal connection, unless I knew they were really common and that I would benefit in some way rather than just having them stuck away in some cupboard somewhere

dont place the tank anywhere near where it will be getting sunlight or it will be a constant battle against algae. If you are not having plants then simple flourescent lighting would be the easiest. On our native tanks we just have a single t8 bulb, not even aquarium specific, Java moss will do fine under this too. In terms of water testing, I would definatly get Ammonia and Nitrite for when the tank is maturing. When the tank is fully cycled and stocked it will not be as necessary to test these two but I would test pH and Nitrates every couple of weeks, Water testing really isnt that important once a tank has been established for a while and you are doing decent sized, regular water changes, and you dont notice any problems. Its probably excessive to test Iron and CO2 particularly in an unplanted tank. HTH

looks mint

you are using fine vermeculite aye guys, the locusts wont lay in coarse vermeculite. with crickets, you need to have a fine mesh over the vermeculite to stop the crickets from eating their eggs.

cant see why not.

Pardon? What you want is to get your dead rock as you can it and add some live rock to speed up the cycling process. Do some reading on the net- there is heaps of info on there.

:oops: thanks

that would be me that you would need to talk to. give me a pm if you are keen