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alanmin4304

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Everything posted by alanmin4304

  1. Growing plant may have some challenges as it is a high tank for its diameter and will therefore not easily fit flourescent lights to the wattage that would be ideal for 700mm depth.
  2. They are OK removed from the water. Put them in a seperate container with an airstone close to but not on the eggs. A drop of meth blue is optional
  3. I used to put in at least 5, then you have a very good chance of getting a pair and sell the rest. They are hard to sex until breeding size and usually do better if allowed to sort out partners themseves
  4. Any number over a pair will result in major domestics if two decide they are more than just good friends.
  5. In the turtle tanks with gravel I give the gravel a good stir up every few months with the vac.
  6. I use sand and plant tanks heavily---only vac lightly off the top.
  7. We are not gay but just good friends?
  8. alanmin4304

    sand

    As soon as the first one hatches I remove it with an eye dropper and then add microworm to the remainder. The rest usually hatch that day. If they are being productive (which they usually are if males and females are kept seperate) I only keep one days eggs in a container and only breed them for about a week. I have just set up 3 trios of nigerianus this morning.
  9. alanmin4304

    sand

    Peat may have antibacterial properties (that I don't know) but it mainly keeps the eggs damp. I have always stored notho eggs in peat and in a plastic bag without problems.
  10. alanmin4304

    sand

    I am not sure that storing on sand would work. I used to spawn nothos on sand and then store on peat. You might be best to look at storing in damp paper in a plastic bag. Sand will not absorb water.
  11. alanmin4304

    sand

    I don't store them on peat, just water---real easy to see for us oldies.
  12. The more tanks and therefore water you have the better as it acts as a heat sink to store your heat.
  13. I heated a 4m x 2.5m room with a one killowatt heater with the fan wired to go all the time.
  14. Dilute the liquifry in a glass and pur it in. A little and often is the trick. Most people feed too much and cause a bacterial bloom. Live brine shrimp is best if you can get it.
  15. I use river sand from portstone nurseries or courser stuff from Oderings.
  16. I understand it was a popular pot plant in England in Victorian days. The best way to propagate it is to convert it to emersed growth then take off the new shoots when they have 3 leaves. They need heavy feeding when emersed. Another way is to float a stem until it grows submersed leaves and then remove them and plant them submersed.
  17. It is quite simple realy. If you remove the ammonia there is nothing to feed the bacteria that cycle the tank so they all die. The tank is therefore not cycled and when you remove the stuff or it becomes used up you have an uncycled tank full of fish. This is the same as filling up a tank with water and adding heaps of fish the next day.
  18. It is use by screan printers--- That is where I got mine but it was a long time ago.
  19. I think stainless would be your best bet. I used to make another smaller fsh tank to fit inside your rearing tank but replace the bottom with mesh and keep it rigid with a couple of straps on the top, then suspend in the rearing tank until eggs are laid (you will see them on the bottom)
  20. I have used galvanized, stainless and plastic all without a problem. You would need to leave the galv in the water as little as possible as it will corrode and the others don't.
  21. Pricey----but it comes down to who wants it the most. I have paid heavy prices to get stuff sometimes.
  22. Cute as it might be to allow them to raise their young (or eat them) the safest way is to remove the eggs. I found that hanging slate near the top of the tank will have them laying on that normally. Feed them newly hatched brine shrimp and microworm when they are free swiming (but not before)
  23. Hang in there---Sounds like it is all for a good cause so must come right in the end.
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