alanmin4304

Might pay to check what the powers that be feel about selling native insects as feeders before you get too geared up.

If you were in Hokitika you probably would have the choice to eat whichever one you wanted.

Can't see any barbels but not a good pic.

I think it is more like up to 200k plus free breakfast for 2 years.

There are specific frequencies of the blue light which the plants need and the plant lights are generally developed to have high levals at that range. It is quite simple realy---what works is correct for you.

Albino is lack of malanin and leucistic is lack of colour as I understand it. Albino --red eye, leucistic black eye.

I use JBL Aqua Basis with sand on top to hold it down. It supplies micronutrients as does daltons. If you provide too much nutrient before your plants are established (and this can take some time) and using the nutrient you will have a lot of problems with algae. Once the plants are growing well you can add fertilizers in a number of ways. A lot of people overseas use very strong light, CO2 and heaps of fertilizers, and that is great when the balance has been found but it can be a rough ride getting there.

If it wont grow the plants you mention it wont grow glosso.

Lamp specialists. Any of the 10000k tubes should be similar---there are slight differences as shown by the colour when you look at them.

The little one would be glad to be out of the water at last.

The guy I was talking to uses them and flouro lumiflor (which are used by MAF for growing plants and have good things to say about them) They are higher in red than growlux I think

The tubes used for corals are high in blue light which makes your plants grow compact. So long as you are getting red light from somewhere it might work well (just come back from my light consultants, one of whom is an aquatic plant grower)

If it was wood over concrete you would not be able to crawl under there. An added pile would not do much to help as it would need to be exactly in the right place to do any good and that would be unlikely. The flooring is on to the joists and the joists are on to the bearers which are on the piles. It would therefore depend on where the tank was in relation to all of that.

I use flouro lumoflor T8s and cool white ---works for me.

Your floor is designed to take a static load equivalent to a column of water 400mm high evenly distributed over the floor (2kPa) I have a tank stand with two tanks 400mm high on a stand with a footprint of 1200x450mm but it is designed to distribute the load as much as possible over that footprint rather than puting all the load down through four legs that are each one square inch. It is located across the bearers and is not a problem in a house built in 1945 with a similar floor load design. The main thing is to distribute the load over the footprint and across the bearers. The force on the flooring has nothing to do with the capacity of the tank but all to do with how high the tank is and how that load is distributed over the footprint and down through the flooring to the load bearing members in the sub floor. It is one of those problems with fish keeping, a bit like the need to earth an electric heater in an aquarium---It is not quite right but seems to work and has done since grandfather was dealing with the same problem.

Letting water stand or aerating it will get rid of the chlorine. In the USA they use monochloramine instead of chlorine to sanitize the water supply and the getting rid of the chlorine produces more monochloramine which is almost as bad. There is no point in getting rid of the chlorine but dosing your fish with monochloromine which is almost as bad. You might as well get rid of them both or treat your fish with both if you think it is harmless. It is not harmless or it would not be used to sanitize the water supply. They are both very strong oxidizing agents.

4000K cool white, 6500-6700k daylight, 10000 is growlux---high in blue and red so looks purple.

Mine were love brand from Homershams in Christchurch. About $120 if I remember correctly. Hysteresis 1 deg C. They read the actual temperature and control it as well. Do a lot more functions than you need but all I could get with reasonable accuracy.

My supician would be that it will not be as good as 10000k but have never used them to find out.

Don't hit me again boss. Some people use 6500k, I use 4000k and 10000k. I think they are more in the range of those used by mariners. I guess the answer is still yes, or try them and report back.

Yes.

You are going to have to pay over $100 to get one accurate enough I would think.

Willow leaf is H. salicifolia but is usually sold here as angustifolia. I don't think it is an Hygrophila, it may be a poor sample of H.zosteraefolia as suggested with a few arial roots

With all gouramis I found that no matter how well you feed them there will be a considerable difference in growth rate. If you seperate them into groups about the same size the smaller ones will catch up better. Lots of water changes helps as well.

The small gouramis are a bit of a pain because they have very small fry, grow slowly and are imported mature. It therefore takes a long time to get them to a comparable state as imported ones