BBA won't respond to a black out. It will grow in a tank without any added light (even just with dark ambient room light but it will get longer and more cottony in appearance). A three day blackout will help to kill off green algae like dust alage or thread algae. It will stop the growth of green spot alage but you will have to remove the spots manually.

Java fern will periodically die off when there is a big change in lighting, nutrients or a spurt of new growth. Some of the leaves shown in your photo demonstrate new growth (the bright green leaf with dark/transparent tips). Java fern responds very well to regular pruning. It is not negatively affected by too much or too little light, nor to Excel or fertilisers, unless there are sudden changes in any of the above. It will even grow in low nutrient environments but like all plants is subject to deficiencies if conditions change rapidly. All Java ferns will grow abundantly well in low or high light as long as water conditions are relatively stable.

Used for ages, never had a problem...

Looking at the photo, I don't think that there is anything major going on, looks just like nutrient deficiency to me.

Excel it and see how that goes...

I've used it in all my tanks too, and never had an issue - BUT alot of people do have issues when combining the two.

I've read numerous accounts on planted forums from people who have had issues when using excel and java ferns.

Just googling "java fern excel" brings up a long list of hits related to this exact problem, therefore I don't think it's something that can be completely discounted.

What's your phosphate and nitrate reading on this tank?

I actually think the BBA could be starving the main plant of the few available nutrients.

Solution - excel and some ferts if you are good at doing water changes. Ferns are pretty undemanding - they thrive in my goldfish tank!

What's your phosphate and nitrate reading on this tank?

This I think is normally the key issue, and my understanding is Java requires certain levels of both in order to do well.

Don't have a way to measure phosphates, but nitrates 80 ppm.

That's very high. Even for a high light tank with CO2 that'd be way too much. Assuming your phosphate is also high, it could be iron phosphate killing the leaves.

IMHO you need to do a big water change, and if you are dosing ferts, reduce your dosing regime.

We can get 80ppm nitrates out of the tap!

I did a 30% PWC last night, and after another 20% today, it's down to 10-20 ppm, so it must have been lower than 80 ppm.

We can get 80ppm nitrates out of the tap!

Must save you lots on ferts :slfg:

No idea as I have never used ferts

I suspect it's what you get using artesian water in a grape growing region :roll:

I know... :smot:

But.. how long in general does it take for the rhizome to attach itself to driftwood when tied with a piece of cotton?

I didn't use cotton as I read sometimes fish can swallow it possibly with some issues. But used nylon fishing line. Some people say it doesn't take that long but I started with very small plants and it took months. Once they were attached I removed the nylon (which I had stapled down into the wood ). Staples were a little rusty.

@p44 - do you grow your java fern in an unheated goldfish tank?

I have tied rhizomes and moss to bogwood and some bits have just stuck after months and months, some never attached properly at all. My husband says that it's because the natural chemicals in the wood that stop it rotting are stopping the bits attaching too. I've had the best success putting the rhizome on a stone and putting a little pebble on top, those have taken a month to 2 months to stabilise and stay attached.

Some people also use rubber bands to secure rhizomes to rocks/wood.

I tend to wedge a few roots in a crack in the wood or cut a small one where I want the plant to be. I have never had to tie one down.

Yes, the moss, crypts, swords and ferns are all in unheated water all year round!

In the past when I've had problems with algae on plants, I've put them outside in containers which have been filled with water, and after a few days the algae melts off. Just thinking it might just be too cold though right now to try that.

I'd say it would be high phosphates Graham. Phosphate is nasty to plants and algae loves it.

I used to tie my java fern on with black cotton string and the babies now I just poke it wherever I want. Got too many baby plants ATM so a workmate gets some freebies.

My 2 largest swords have just sent up flower stems too exciting!

Could be high phosphates but I do regular WC so I thought that would remove them.

This is an unplanted low tech tank, and from numerous web pages I have now read, it is said that algae flourish when there is high lighting and low nutrients. To combat the above I need to cut back on the lighting and feed the few plants I have. So, based on the advice also given by others above, I have started to add some Flouish Excel. Took me 30 mins just to get the cap off though.

I'd say it would be high phosphates Graham. Phosphate is nasty to plants and algae loves it.

I used to tie my java fern on with black cotton string and the babies now I just poke it wherever I want. Got too many baby plants ATM so a workmate gets some freebies.

My 2 largest swords have just sent up flower stems too exciting!

I disagree, with regards to the problem being high phosphates. I actually have to add phosphorus to my tank and maintain it at a certain level. Before I did this I had loads of problems with green spot algae.

http://www.hollywoodfishfarm.co.nz/deta ... ml/m/1007/

High phosphate levels are actually quite hard find with the water in New Zealand (well in Auckland anyway) My water doesn't have much at all, well not enough to read with a test kit anyway.

Graham I would recommend you google Tom Barr, and the Tom Barr method of fertilizing, you will not look back...

I've actually read a few posts on the www.barrreport.com regarding non Co2 tanks and algae

High phosphate levels are actually quite hard find with the water in New Zealand (well in Auckland anyway) My water doesn't have much at all, well not enough to read with a test kit anyway.

You're generalising. Hamilton has high phosphate tap water, for example. That's why I asked Graham what his water tested at for PO4

You're generalising. Hamilton has high phosphate tap water, for example. That's why I asked Graham what his water tested at for PO4

exactly, hence why I said not in Auckland anyway