Squirt Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 Hello Today I've started to build my aquarium and stand. Here are pics of the short stand: Putting it together Undercoat First coat Second coat Just a black stand. The aquarium Dimensions: 40cm(L) x 30cm(W) x 25cm(H) Base Back Base siliconed in Side silicone One side in place Two sides in place Front with silicone Front side in Full tank shot I have a few questions I was told not to remove silicone on the outside. Do you take it off once cured? And it's probably too late now, but how do you clean up silicone? I mucked up some of the inside and it doesn't look very nice. Im thinking of using a razor blade but any suggestions on how to do it is appreciated. I will be doing a leak test next weekend. I don't think it was too bad of a job considering I've never done anything like this before. I will be planting it up maybe with a few ottos. Maybe an iwagumi look. Any suggestions is appreciated, But I hope you enjoy. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ismart120 Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 Looks good hey, should be able to take excess silicone off the glass using a razor blade flat, taking care not to scratch the glass, as for cleaning up silicone, while it was wet I used my finger to smooth it out, with a little turps? Not sure about now its dry... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 You have used far too much silicone but it can be cut off with a one sided razor blade when the glue is properly dried (which may be a few days because of the amount). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted November 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 Bugger, :roll: I will probably have to reseal the insides, and will try that method. I smudged it a bit when trying to clean it up with nail polish remover. Thanks Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zayne Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 you should have used your finger to remove extra silicone while it was wet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted November 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 I did, it ended up spreading even further Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 If I was in your position I would remove all the fillet with a one sided razor blade when properly dry and clean up properly. Replace the fillet with an untouched (fine) nozzle on the glue gun then spread with your finger while wet. You have the right idea but like most people, have used too much glue. Imagine the glue is worth $500 a tube and get tight with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted November 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 :slfg: thanks Alan, I think that is what I'll try to do, so wait 72 hours or 1 week? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-obstacle Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 Wait until you can't smell silicone then give it another day to be safe. I'd either start again or just accept that it looks handmade Either way you're going to have to wait until it's cured to clean it up properly. Looks like a fun build though. Well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 If you decide to razor out the silicon wait a week if you can bear it - the drier it is the easier it is. I have bought 2 tanks that had heavy handed silicone jobs and have painstakingly razored out the excess from inside and out and while it takes hours and hours, it's worth it not to look at green algae gunk all down the edges a few months later. For the best 'shave' though you will need a very flexible sharp razor, I've tried all but keep coming back to the double sided very thin dangerous ones. I've used masking tape on one side so it's safe to hold. If you scrape it on the glass edge it will get blunt so if you need to do that (I did in places to scrape off bits) be prepared to use another one. You can definitely get that kind of razor in a shaving type shop (rare but there might be one in Wellington), or I bought mine on the offchance in the supermarket, they weren't there when I went back. I have never found one of the old fashioned flexible one sided razor blades except in copious amounts on Trademe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nativelover Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 looks good :thup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted November 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2011 Hi everyone Thanks for all the replies. I guess I can hold off for a week to re silicone, if it makes life easier. I'm up in hamilton and will go out to the goldfish bowl tomorrow if I can. Will post some updates when I get home and start the re silicone and leak testing the week after. Thanks Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zayne Posted November 5, 2011 Report Share Posted November 5, 2011 re silicone? why Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 re silicone? why Meh decided against it today. Cleaned it up with a razor blade a little and it looks good. I will do a leak test tomorrow. The Plan: 1. Take it outside 2. Put dry towel underneath 3. Fill with water 4. Wait :nilly: (how long should I wait for?) 5. Check towels for leaks. 6. Repair leaks (how do you know where the leaks are?) Would one of these lights work? http://www.trademe.co.nz/pets-animals/fish/lights-lamps/auction-421803143.htm#qna It's T5/11W and 2 bulb. Im thinking its not enough 7.5G/11W but it looks nice and is relatively cheap. Thanks Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artem Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 That light looks fine, since there are two bulbs it would be 22W/7.5G. The WPG rule doesn't work that well anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Yeah, I think it's based on depth of water/watts now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 A few tanks that I like he looks of, I do like the iwagumi look http://www.aquaportail.com/aquabdd/photos/utricularia-graminifolia.jpg http://www.oliver-knott.com/uploads/pics/4-aquarium-oliver-knott.jpg http://www.aquascapingworld.com/gallery/images/769/medium/1_Autumn_Sunrise_4.jpg Can any one ID any plants? Umm hairgrass is the only one I know for Iwagumi, and something Called HC I don't have a clue what this is, but everyone talks about it. And where do you find rocks like that? I looked up the river, but nothing but round ones. And silica sand, in wellington, where do you buy it? I may see if the new LFS can get some in. If anyone in Wellington can help much appreciated. I may just go low tech on this tank, I have seen people set up nanos with regular desk lamps, is this really possible, and if I'm going low tech on this tank how big of a light should I be looking at. And any suggestions for a background colour is also appreciated, was pondering black, but then I'm scared it would look too dark. Any help is appreciated Thanks in advance Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si_sphinx Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 The 2nd one looks cool but I also like the look of plants growing up to the water line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N1CK Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 First ones looks like Lilaeopsis novae-zelandiae Second ones HC (Hemianthus Callitrichoides) not available in NZ Third looks like some kind of Rotola in the background and no idea what's on the rocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Hemianthus micranthemoides is availabe but very rare. I lost mine over the winter. It will grow emersed but is more of a true aquatic and is the better one submersed. Hemianthus umbrosum is also available and will grow emersed. It is not a true aquatic and is more suited to emersed growth in a terrarium. As far as I know Hemianthus callitrichoides is not available in NZ. They are all susceptable to algae when grown submersed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Thanks Alan, N1CK and si sphinx Man I hate algae, ruins everything What about a riccia carpet? I've read that you can attach it to a rock with a hairnet or thread to form a nice carpet? And is there any substitute plants for any of those? Thanks Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 You can make a carpet with riccia or various of the mosses available out their. Not sure if riccia requires strong light. The mosses don't need so much and of course strong light may lead to algae problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Hmm, I'm going to have to do some thinking, high lights=high Ferts+high CO2. Of course moss doesn't look as good as riccia. Can you have High light without having to have high Ferts and CO2? This is becoming pretty complicated Thanks Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Li@m Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Hmm, I'm going to have to do some thinking, high lights=high Ferts+high CO2. Of course moss doesn't look as good as riccia. Can you have High light without having to have high Ferts and CO2? This is becoming pretty complicated Thanks Alan Yes it is very possible.. ill get the article that you need to read to understand how high lighting and low ferts works. Just let me find it.. Ps the WPG rule is flawed to hell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Liam I want to see that article too, I didn't think it was possible. ---------- Those tanks are cool but they all look like high tech tanks, it would take probably a number of months for a low tech to grow as thick as that unless you planted lots and lots of plants to start with. My loach tank has about 11 watts of light from a clip on aquarium light that covers the tank from front to back rather than it's length, it's on 6 hours a day with only a short time of sunset light late in the day. The plants are slow growing (except anubias, puts out lots of new leaves) and there are no stem plants (only crypts, twisted val, anubias nana), but there is not a spot of algae. When the room lights are on the lighting looks like a shady nook in the forest compared to the brightness of those photos (looks brighter if the room lights are off). The CPD tank seems bright with an 8 watt bulb that runs the length of the tank and is also on for about 6 hours. That one has various algae that comes and goes slowly enough for me to catch and kill or remove and the plants grow faster in there than the other one. I had riccia floating in that tank originally and it did very well for a while, grew very fast and then got a light brown slimey algae that incidentally didn't grow in others' tanks when I sold some, but it blocked the light and some of the plants underneath suffered. I tried plastering the riccia to a rock with plastic netting but I wasn't patient enough to wait for it to grow and the netting looked un-pretty. The crypts in there did really well (till I disturbed them :facepalm: ) and the swordplant and twisted val is also taking off now. Have now added some aponogeton undulatus which looks great, really green. Supasi also grew that in his low tech tank that you'll find in the search. As Jennifer instructed me ( :sage: ), for low tech you have to have little or no ferts, short light period, but probably any light fitting/brightness will do when you control it time-wise. In the beginning you'd have to start out with say 6 hours and see how it went for a couple of months, if no algae you could increase it and so on. To match it you have to get plants that don't need high light requirements, but saying that many will still do alright if you are prepared to wait for growth. I have balansae crypt doing slowly but well that is supposed to like high light. I never tried glosso or many of the stem plants for those reasons. In short - if you want the lush look with low maintenance and low tech then get lots of plants to start with so you don't have to wait for the growth. Black background will be fine if you get a light fitting that runs the length of the tank so it's lit from end to end. My loach background is blue like the CPD tank but in the corners it's so dark it's almost navy. You need to come and visit Auckland and see my tanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.