henward Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 ok my garage is WAYYY to cold, 13 degrees this morning and my tanks fell to 25 this morning, was only 3 degrees it hink outside lol i wanna insulate it with poly, questions what thickness shoudl i use, 10, 20, 40 50 mm thick? some areas i can do 50 but it might be too thick and make the room way too small in some areas any feedback? also where can i get really cheap good bulk poly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David R Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 Go around the building stores asking for cover sheets and/or damaged ones. Other than that 25mm 1200x2400 sheets are about $25 IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 I got a whole heap of various thicknesses (all fireproof) for free as it cannot be recycled.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim r Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 There is a company in Rotorua called Bondor they sell all types/thicknesses and would most probably be able to put you onto someone local. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 Put as thick as you can fit and can afford. Those are the only disadvantages to going thicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 i want tof ully insulate it. the dividends from insulation far outweighs the power bill. was thinking 20 to 40 mm if i can. also expol squares between the wood and the tin. duct tape, nails to hold them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 my walls in the garage are that plastic stuff used for real state signs. i heard duct tape will melt the poly? what tape can i use to put them on? i dont want glue cos its permanent im renting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diver21 Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 what if you use silicone to stick it on, not a full on silicone attack but just 1-2 lines per sheet of poly, and its easy enough to remove without damaging the coreflute when you need to move Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 silicone melts it too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diver21 Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 dosent melt poly. havnt done it to the coreflute but i highly doubt that it will melt the coreflute. just use the non acid curing type just to be sure. you will need to insulate the roof as thats where about 42% of heatloss will be, about 10-15% from the sides Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 I used nails with a square of ply under the head to stop the nail pulling through, pretty rough but works well.. Just siliconed or taped up the gaps between the sheets to stop drafts or anything like that, silicone doesn't melt the poly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 ok found cheap sheets expol delivers free too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insect Direct Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 Go around the building stores asking for cover sheets and/or damaged ones. Other than that 25mm 1200x2400 sheets are about $25 IIRC. i got prices down here last year and was about $11-12 per sheet. $15 for the harder stuff/different grade = more insulation or something like that worth shopping around, insulation/poly specialists were much cheaper than hardware stores or atleast was when i rang around down this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David R Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 I used nails with a square of ply under the head to stop the nail pulling through, pretty rough but works well.. Thats what I was suggesting this morning (via text, not on here) just using screws instead of nails so its easier to remove later on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 some areas i may be able to use nail/screws. if there is the wood structure to put it on, ill have to see, im gonna measure up tonight, and plan where to put them on. planning on using 40 to 50mm thick on ceilings. and 25mm on walls (somewalls with limited space) and 40 on some walls that i can put that thick on. i have a little room place at the back of the garage wherei store my food and randoms, i may just close that off with a makeshift door using 40 to 50mm thick poly that i manually move side to side. to save cose also there is no use of insulating that area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdspider Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 What's this about duct tape melting poly?? I use duct tape around the sides to keep it looking neater and stop baby picking at the poly. Haven't noticed any melting. Should I be worried? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 apparently the glue may not stick cos it melts the poly slightly, and willc ome off but in say ing that you used 3M duct tape? if so and it sticks strongly? if so then i dont have a problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David R Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 Would hot glue work? Or would the heat cause the poly to melt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie841 Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 you could use this http://www.holdfast.co.nz/resources/pdf ... 75_TDS.pdf Applications Interior applications with frequent long-term exposure to running or condensed water. Exterior applications with explosion to weather influences. Manufacturing of door and window-frames that need to meet class D4 according to EN204. Bonding of wooden construction elements. Bonding of insulation materials (including polystyrene). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 Would hot glue work? Or would the heat cause the poly to melt? Hot glue, gorrila glue, white glue, foam safe ca, all work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamH Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 I've used hot glue on poly before and it melted a great big hole in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 I've used hot glue on poly before and it melted a great big hole in it Use low temp hot glue, not hotter than the surface of the sun glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamH Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 Use low temp hot glue, not hotter than the surface of the sun glue. Oh! That's where I went wrong :oops: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 silicon is my choice, i can easily peel or scrape it off the cornflute. and screws as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 i gonna put 50mm thick poly on the ceiling 40mm at a door, i use this door and will make it removeable (to the back section of my garage, i wont insuralte that, i dont have anything there but storage) 25mm for the side walls 40mm back walland garage door side. im gonna seal off the garage door - and have the one side where i access to go outside removeable in case i need to use the garage door. im gonna use screws with a thick head - thin pieces of wood to stable them with the screws ont o supporting structures (wood frame of garage) silicon, duct tape to stick them on ceiling and to tape gaps. if i can keep the garage ambient temp at around 20c, that is a huge improvement! also, i found that draft constantly came from under the garage entrance door( not the big door but the person door) im gonna block that up too everytime i come out of the grage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.