reef

Have one big sump then it will be safer all-round. The curent sump design is too Complicated like too many pipes, tanks flowing into each other, all adds up to risk.

It can be designed to work on any phone, Just need to find decent software as the current iks software is not the best. Also working on getting it to work online.

You could do something about a top up, but what are you going to do if your main tank leaks when you are away. Would be better to get a IKS computer that can send you a text when the sump is low or other problems, i think this would be a better investment.

Does anyone else think that we need a beginner’s section? With so many new people getting into saltwater I would think it could be a good idea. Maybe we could also get a tank pic section

Big boy banggai 5 years old

Pics taken from the top of the tank. This is zeovit free, lets see some zeovit tanks in nz to compare.

I use a controller with 2 x 1000w titanium heaters. I find that the Visiatherm glass heaters and alike are suspect as thay get water in them. Titanium is much safer .

Sounds like a job for DIY rescue

You need to have thermal cut-out in the ballasts. This are thermal resetting switches in the windings. The problem is that High Intensity lamps (includes MH) suffers from rectification towards the end of life. Theoretically this can also happen prematurely in lamp but very rare. This process will draw more and more DC component of the current which the ballast is not able to stop. But this will still have the effect of increasing ballast winding temperatures. Ultimately the insulation in the winding breaks down and shortcircuits causing arcing and possible fire as the worst case scenario. In some cases the incresed current is enough to create increased pressure in arc tube in a lamp causing it to explode.

his running 250w.

Here are some update reef pics. Tested water today and stands at: Calcium 430ppm kh 3 m/l phostphates .001 Nitrates .001 magnesium 1320ppm salinity 1.024 temp 25c

YOU NEED TO GET RO OR DI FILTER UNIT, .5MIC WILL NOT REMOVE PHOSTPHATES AND NITRATES. SO THIS MIGHT BE THE PROBLEM??, ALSO NO NEED TO FEED ANEMOES AS THEY WILL GET TOO BIG. THE CLOWNS WILL FEED THEM ANYWAY, ANEMOES WILL USE THE LIGHT TO GROW AND THE ORGANICS IN THE WATER. YOU DO NEED TO SLOW DOWN ON THE FEEDING AS IT SEEMS QUIT A LOT, MAYBEE ONLY FEED THEM EVERY SECOND DAY. GET US SOME UPDATED PIC

Fay if you are doing that much water changes then you have to find out what is causing the high nitrates, How much do you feed?? eg daily . 3 times daily what do you feed??? do you wash your frozen food before you feed the fish?? do you filter your top up water?? ro or di what supplements are you using??

photos would help

Hagen test kits are not that great for salt water, the salifert test kits are much better. Your phostphates are fine for a leather tank. Nitrates a bit high, but if you do couple of big water changes it will go down. i would aim for below 10ppm

I would be concerned as well. The product started off as too colour up acropora and now it is used for soft coral. There is not benefit for soft coral at all as most like some sort of nutrients too grow. actually how high is your nitrate and phostphate levels. ?????? nitrate levels of below 10ppm is fine and slight phostphate levels also not a problem as these are utilised by soft coral.

here are the posts already discussed. there must be about 50-100 reefers in nz. about 4 reefers use this system in NZ. It is mainly used to colour up acropora corals as it removes nitrates and phostphates. I would not use zeovit on your tank as it is mainly a soft coral tank and you could have real problems if you dose incorrectly. Zeovite does not remove directly nitrite , nitrate, or phostphates from the tank. It permanenly absords ammonium and ammonia the first two chemicals in the nitrification cycle, thus preventing the formation of nitrite and nitrate. http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?t=3130 http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?t=2411

UGF went out with Berlin protein skimmers. I think you were looking at a 100L tank is that correct, if so a good protein skimmer and rock is only required, Nano tanks are normally less than 30 Litres and they only also use rock and an air tube. Get the CORAL magazine volume 2 it has all the info on NANO tanks. One thing for sure Nano tanks are not for beginners as they are too hard to maintain due to the margin of error, I would get 200-300 litre min.

The aqua one could be ok however the lighting is a bit dim and it has to be modified to get a skimmer in it. Mind you for fish only it is hard to get a skimmer in it. I am looking at getting a small aquaone and going to try to get a hang on skimmer working.

metal halides are genarally only required for light demanding coral and not required for people starting out. best option is t5s, like floros but much brighter. easy to keep coral like mushrooms, some leather, love low- medium lighting.

aqua one make nice tanks for fish only, you could easy get a decent fish only tank for $2500. i think a aquaone 3 foot is only about $400-$500

2-3 foot is fine, however the smaller the tank the margin of error is higher Fish only systems are cheaper as you dont need very good light, get a very good skimmer as water quality is so important. cost good protein skimmer for 200l tank $400-500 rock 400 floros 50 pumps 300-400 you wont need a filter as if you have enough rock it will do the job if you have a very good skimmer. so you should be able to to it for under $2500

bubble coral can get real big, here is mine that is about 2 years old, it was 4inch and now is about 12inch. This is the white version, wish it was the green colour version,

I thought i covered it in this paragraph, which part do need help with jetski. Can’t get live rock in New Zealand. Live rock is rock that has bits of coral. Algae on it, However you will find cured base rock which normally sells as live rock. It cost about $10 kg

And i bet you were using a berlin skimmer and still complained about the prices.