reef

Microworm are too big. that is why it is hard to breed marine fish as they fry are very small.

no, you need live rotifers for a week, but hard to get hold off. Niwa charge way to much. $200 plus for a culture. How much are the copperbands/six linewrasses steve?? does $26 sound about right??

Thanks for that tip Steve; I think most people know that NSW does not have to be mixed. I thought it is pretty obvious.

There is another way that will help to remove white spot. This is based on that the fish is still eating and not that badly covered. I would also think the white spot that you have could be due to the temp changes we are having. You could try to daily water changes of about 20-30%. But make sure that if you use mixed salt water that you mix it overnight so that if dissolves well. This has worked well for me in my reef tank. On the odd occasion the white spot went overnight. White spot is not really a problem if the fish are healthy and the tank conditions are good, A few weeks ago I did a water change and in error got the salinity to 1.040. My fish in my sump all got white spot the next day. When I fixed my salinity the next day to 1.025 the white was almost gone within a day. Do you have a pics of your blue tang??

The garlic does seem to work if the fish are still eating. Stu at Hollywood used it on a customers tank and within 1 week all the fish had no white spot. The garlic he used was made by ecosystem which comes in a bottle

Increasing temp only means that whitespot will breed quicker. i have never read anything that says that they stop breeding at 29c. Normally fish dont died of whitespot, but died from secondary bactarial infection. here is a link that will help http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2003/mini1.htm

Chris, hyposalinity does not work unless you drop the salinity down to 1.015, which is not good for corals. If the fish have white spot then it is stressed for some reason, check water quality,ph, nitrate,nitrite etc. You can get salifert stop parasite, which is safe for coral. it is a pepper based treatment which helps to remove the slim from the fishs coat thus causing the white spot to drop off. It does work if the fish is not that badly covered. Blue tangs normally get white spot anyway and if the water is fine it goes away in about a week.

You dont have to have a metal halide for a anemone. T5s will also be ok. The other most important thing is current. they need lots of water movement.

Sure is Turbinaria. cant see any goni

Its normal for a new fish not to eat for a few days and hide. try feeding it salifert fish food, as that is what they have been eating, also try chopped up mussels and nori

no problems with your ph chris. mine ph is between 7.9 - 8.10 check salinity??

Brian, you will need rotifers to feed the baby clowns for 1-2 weeks after they hatch, also to feed the rotifers you will need an algae culture. cyclopeeze is too big.

no, it will not. try mixing all your food with garlic. might help with resistance.

worms

thats a nice tank, too big for a nano. i think a nano is about 20L or so

yep, they can jump. its a 50/50 call.

Speaking from many years experience I found that adding a small amount of trace elements does help coral. Mushrooms thrive much better with iodine additions and since I have added iodine my xenia is doing much better and is growing at a much faster rate, Mark are you still using Zeovit? do you use NSW?? If you are then you are adding supplements as it is loaded with trace elements. Amino acids etc. I note that you state that test kits are wildly inaccurate; can you provide us with information on how inaccurate they are? Where can we find this information?? I have noticed that all the Xenia that is going really well are based in tanks that are using NSW, and my feeling is that this is because the high nutrient content of NSW. So in terms of adding iodine, strontium, etc, I think it is beneficial based on my experience? The trick is to add supplements in moderation, as more is not better and trying to get a balance.

What pump are you using to drive the venturi, it could need a bigger pump as there are not many bubbles, could also be the photo. got any close ups. Normally if the pump is strong you would get bubbles below the venturi. Is that a mazzi venturi??

yep 10mm is the way to go, you could get a 12mm base for extra safety.

10mm is fine, 12mm is a bonus. whats the price differance?/

I can get you some, BUT how will you catch the fish.??

INFO Since these fish are sand sifters, internal parasites can be a common problem. A positive identification of intestinal worms would require a microscopic examination of its fecal matter, or the liver, intestines, or abdominal cavity of deceased fish. Obviously, this is beyond the capabilities of most hobbyists, so it is best to presume the fish has intestinal worms. This presumption is not without merit, however, as an estimated 75 - 85% of imported marine fish have intestinal worms (Bassleer, 1996). The induced stress from poor shipping practices exacerbates this ailment, likely leading to the death of the animal. Normal signs indicative of internal worm infestations are: weight loss while a healthy appetite is present, scraping or flashing against rockwork or sand, and finally, loss of appetite occurring just prior to death. Treatment for internal worms must be administered to a fish that is eating. Live foods are best, as this allows "gut loading," which is the practice of feeding live foods additional vitamins or medicines just prior to feeding. If live foods are unavailable, the next best option is to use freeze-dried foods. The dry food will soak up and retain a majority of the medicine. Piperazine is a good first choice for treatment. Add 250mg per 100g of food each day for a period of 10 days. Praziquantel or lecamisole can be used as a second choice, with the same dosage and time frame. Niclosamide can also be used at 500mg per 100g of food for 10 days (Bassleer, 1996). It is highly advisable to keep these gobies as pairs in the home aquarium as single individuals are typically noted to succumb to an early death. Spawning of paired individuals is not uncommon in the home aquarium. The eggs, usually between 1000 and 2000 eggs, will be attached to the roof of the burrow. The female will stay in the burrow with the eggs until they hatch, reportedly from one to four days for V. strigata (Michael, Coral Realm) and three weeks for V. sexguttata (Baensch, 1994), while the male remains outside the cave, presumably guarding the female and the eggs from danger. When the eggs hatch the male will seal the burrow entrance with the female inside until nightfall, at which time the male opens the burrow door and along with the female, herd the fry into the open water column (Baensch, 1994). The Sand Sifting gobies certainly live up to their given name, and in doing so can make an interesting addition to some home aquariums. Their unique eating behavior is certainly something not seen too often, and possibly thankfully so. The eating behavior can become terribly destructive when the fish is placed into the wrong setting. Ignoring the advice given above will yield results that will make for both unhappy hobbyists and corals.

does anyone use phostphate remover in a planted tank. ? did you notice any differance?

yes, i agree, a diy section would be great. how about a tank of the month. i will donate 2 free fish for the winner.