caserole

:lol: man thats hot for a tropical rain forest fish. but if it works for you it ain't broke.

:lol: Double post

mmm are you having much luck breeding your choc australe with mops? they have softer eggs then other killies, I breed them at 21C on peat,incubate like notho's ( don't squeese peat ) but for 10 days at 21C ,above 24C incubate for 14 days.

forgot to ask, what are you feeding your killies to get your females in excellent condition?

Yes it would appear so but doesn't mean it is so. then you say "to many plants" what do you really mean? if you have alot of plants that are growing well. your ph during the day will be normal. but at night the plants breath O2 in and CO2 out ( CO2 is acidic ) just like your fish. this can cause a crash in you ph and a crash in your O2 level over night that is not good at all, but will recover during the day. this is why I suggested you take readings of your ph in the morning and night. the morning reading if your plants are at folt will be lower then the night reading and this will persist day after day - you will see the patern. hope this helps sorry i've been off line for a few days *what is normal or ok for biocem's? * ammonia 0ppm, nitrite 0ppm, nitrate now this is a little differant if your tank is in balance the norm is 0ppm, but if your tank is no higher then 20ppm the fish want be unhappy, the problem comes if you get flucuations up down up down or you add new fish that are used to very low or no nitrates. it can be a bit dorenting "nitrate levels" but as I suggested if you test your nitrate level dayly you will see what is happening in your tank and tell us - we can go from there and see what others have to say

you didn't say what else you have in your tank other then the two species. if thats all you have, they both like it HOT so don't be afraid to go to 31C ( that temp alone will kill the white spot )but if there are other fish you may like to tell us don't forget to increase the airation of your tank as at thou's temps your water can't hold as much O2 for your fish. good luck oh, you didn't say if you have found out what white spot can do to your fish , incase you havn't found out it can kill them

I don't know if anybody has breed them here yet . you need to know what species you have as there are a few differant spawning requirements ie some like to spawn over gravel some in caves others under leaves. But from what I can recall the triger is the same as corydoras :- drop in temp, followed by a slow reheat. can you not find any thing on the cat fish sites?

good job Kyle thuo's fish have really grown heeps since I sent them up there. the notho kor's yellow , females look really fat are you colecting eggs weekly ? recon you'd get quit a few eggs of them they look as good as mine :lol: hope to get a dig cameria this week and will be able to show you mine

A 20% water change per week is just fine keep an eye on those nitrates if they start to climb you may like to increase the water changes to half weekly as the tank is only a small 1. DON'T FORGET TO LET US KNOW YOUR RESULTS

daphnia do realy well on bacteria, get some red eared sliders 3 old bath tubs , feed slider real well = green water and bacteria = LOTS AND LOT OF Daphnia

ok i'll give my 2 cents worth too :lol: I THINK A PAIR OF ANGEL FISH IN AN OCTAGONAL TANK IS WAY COOL, big piece of slate at the back, large val around the edges and a full grown pair of angel fish, tall/long fins 8) man( nods head)

Just had a thought , it may be wise to do a test of ph and nitrate on your tank . What I mean is this:- test your waters ph everyday first in the morning early then again in the evening , this will tell you if there is a flucuation during the day/ night - and threw the week and again before you do a water change and after you do a water change ( record results for referance ) the perpose of this is to see what is happening to your tanks ph and it would also help figger out what is the cause, a nitrate test once per day would also help ( upper hutt has low buffer nitrate = acid = lower ph ) . this way you would be able to track your ph and compare it to you nitrate level to see if there is a corolation (is nitrates the problem of lowering ph )or if there is another cause . just an idea that may have an easy fix oh by the way 0ppm nitrate is best but 10ppm nitrate is nothing to worry about.

Hello WTM, It would be nice to know your real name - more friendly ok this is probly what your problem is as I am from upper hutt too. there is bugger all ph buffer in our water , so when you get just the slitest amount of nitrate in your tank ( nitrate = acid ) it will cause your ph to drop from 7 to well that depends on the level of nitrate it could get really BAD if you don't keep up thou's water changes . there is 2 ways to fix 1, do a 5% water change 5 to 6 days a week = 30% over the week 2, add buffer to your water . this is what I do, I do 1 as well :lol: how to add buffer to your water 1, find a small piece of dolmite rock ( if you can find some, tell me I want some ) it works like this the acid in you tank desolves the lime until the ph hits 7 then it is nutralised ( or close to it ) 2, add half a teaspoon of sodium bicarbonate ( = baking soda ) per 100lt , you must add a % of bicarbonate every time you do a water change to keep your ph balanced adding this amount will give you a final ph of around 7.2 to 7.4. if you use method 2 DON'T add all the b/soda at once just add a % every water change and in 2 to 3 weeks at a 30% water change per week your tank will be fully buffered . any other ideas people? more the marryer

lol kyle Talk about unlucky. Guentheri is 1 of the notho's with it's sex genes intact, so you should get 50/50 male and female or there abouts I know Alan M ( you know ) has lots of males better luck

Wet Pets Palmerston north

it's a shame really the origanal dwarf gourami's are such lovely fish.

all my fish are going to die, how sad :lol: i don't have any plants or gravel does that mean there going to die faster :lol: :lol: the crap some people say just to get your bucks

also have you checked you tap water for organic minerals ? nitrate , phosphate for e.g. I know my water has lots of phosphate in it.

recommened is just that. recommended I doesn't mean they wont be quit happy at that ph if it is the norm.

They don't care about that !. it's all about how many fish they can fit in a box to lower there costs. The things I could mention about importing tetras would cause your eyes to boulge. I would think it is inbreach of curlty to animals act, but it's not if maf don't know this as they brake the seals on all fish imports

cool,

Yes but you would not need a "powerful air pump " , just a normal 1 would handle 3 filters. As for the loss of fry I don't know what it could be but it does not sound right , lossing some fry is no big deal but that sounds excessive.

Hi GeeTee, I don't think you have a problem with your ph, sure it's not nutaral but so what, it is not to high for the fish you keep. As long as it is stable and not all over the place don't worry about it,any way your mollys will love. it. They like it alkaline

just on the devided tank , yes you will need a new heater and filters but every tank does not need 1, just ever second, depends on how many subsections there are. as for filters all you need is small air driven box filters or make your own sponge filters.

in a word NO,but you will only be able to concentrate on 1 colour form, any more then that and you will not do them justice and need more tanks. or you could ask for 1 large shallow (300mm ) tank that can be devide in to smaller tanks :lol: you may have to make your mind up - what do you want - a comunity tank + or line breed guppys devide tanks into smaller 1's? I don't have comunity tanks as I like to breed fish, so thats were i focus my hobby.