henward

would this be ok generally?

unfortunatey, the culture is kinda screwed. I find that the culture that has heaps of beetles and large hungry mealworms will be fine, they CAN eat the mites and win the battle. but small mealies will get overwhelmed. you are better to chuck it away. OR if you wanna salvage it, put it somewhere where the temp is 28 to 30c constant mights will die. other than that - nothing you can do avoiding the mite to begine with is the key. heat, mights don't like high heat. but mostly, don't over moisten the culture. itsa touch balance, not enough mlisture and MW eat each othe, too much mite come.

I haven't checked the big Wednesday ticket yet... I'll let you know

why dont you try breeding with a barrier in the middle. works well for many breeders overseas cos the FH is a killer! lots of articles on how to do it, basically, glass barrier in the middle with holes on it, slate under the glass and slight current going to the female for male to fertilise or something. you dont get as many fry but you get fry and no dead females.

Haha, the footprint is extremely shocking when you first look at it, your dimensions are same as mine except height. But if ind that the shape and look is so overwhelming, impactful in fact. the depth is cool, cos you dont need a 3d background, if you really wanted to, youc an just put branchi stuff standing as background, it will look mean! cant wait to se eyour school of wild discus:D :fshi:

i want rays, cant we hve rays here?!?!

I think more planning comes into play. the size itself requires planning, i think more so than smaller tanks. not sure if david would agree. i guess its also cos once it is built, there is no moving it, its staying put! David: would you agree that as you build tanks - you refine your designs to address 'screw ups' in the previous ones? such as flow etc?

Haha i had one with 70plus other fish, so wasnt an issue. however, i did have the arowana that kept it in check, oscar too.. so didnt really get the chance to annoy anything. but, i did see it had a nasty streak to it

when mine cracked ages ago due to an accident, i simply took photos, measurements and they got a quote for repair from a commercial shop kinda place. but greg can easily type one up im sure.

AMI Premier contents treat tanks up to 10yrs as furniture and has a full replacement guarantee OR repair if its cheaper. make sure you do a semi auto water change system:D imagine draining a tank like that, waiting and filling. a real pain!

awesomeballs! that tank looks great! the couch is ok distance wise, i think you will get a good feel and view of it! so exciting, looking forward to seeing the black aro in there!! get that sump design up! we wanna see!

yeah, no rom. tank not even running yet! tempted though

concur with the Fraser. american tiger comes in . in fact, hff roskill may hav eone now. i had one in the past. widebar is rare, ultra rare, you get wide bar indos, look very similar but not true widebar they are ultra rare, i have seen them at 3k each in singapore at a small size! i have also seen pictures of leucistic ones. american is cool, really active, more so than the others. if you google my youtube account, henward888 had what seemed like a wide bar or a widebar indo. not sure. one of my oldest vids.

wait, is this in NZ? that is definitely not a run of the mill FH we get here, is it locally bred or importeD? that is fantastic

When Ihad 4 jagers uusing their own thermostats... I found that the heaters would not turn on together and tank reps would fluctuate more.. Now using a controller.. Water heats faster during wc and temps more constant.... Maybe it's all the same result.... And different patter only perhaps... But using cheap heaters with temp controller is fine.

its all bout cost. you can get aqua ones for cheap. if you are using a controller, the heater thermostat can be broken, as long as it pumps out the heat, it doesn't matter. I am using 2 old aqua ones, 1 old tronic and 4 jagers, all 300w for my new set up with a controller, works better. having multiple heaters will never sync properly when it comes to temp. you get inefficient temp control AND waste of power.

I was gonna buy it if it wasn't sold... ohw ell:D

awesome there is a website with all the different patterns that you can get. spotted ones are cool. and no stripe clowns. or the ones that turn white!

ages ago, i believe i saw a NGT - though, like you said, it could be hard to tell... i am sure it was an NGT or at least it looked like it. but in saying that, i would probably retract and say... that we dont cos really, if it is a one off, then cant really confirm it was! lol

yeah, they also take a fish live from about 10 cms away from their mouths. they suck the fish in and as if , it automatically descales the fish as it enters their stomach! love them! lan on having 4 of them in new tank. they also get very very large. but thats ok. post a vid! or pic. as for whats avail. you get indos, you get wide bar INDOs, not true widebars, they are ultra rare... i have seen some new guineas ages ago, thats ages ago. i have seem many oddballs in term sof pattern, american tigers avail too. would love a Norther thailand thin bar, but dont really come in.

100 micron. Yeah all the way down or middle.. Don't matter really. Cos i lowered sock. IIt's half submerged

I tried and will apply this. if you get foam, poret say, and cut them in rough circles or squares and put 2 layers in the bottom of each sock, you catch the big bits and the sock lasts longer. i tried it with filter wool in the sock, and lasts much longer, in fact, i could get away with not washing the socks for 3 times the usual clean cycle. but wool is disposable so stopped but poret would work too.

would be nice to see wilds in a proper show tank!

I forgot now to be honest, 6k or 8k lph i think. plus the corner internal box pump is 3500lph zero head height which it is so that will turn it over too, more mechanical though. but the big pump should suffice, if im finding it too weak, i may upgrade later on. i dont foresee that though, finalized your sump designs?

that was definitely the old sump. yes it did over flow lol garage though at the time, could not care less bout over flow but this one has a good drain, also big enough. the media takes the place of water so its same formula as before and shouldnt flood the flooding actually comes from the tank itself holding water above the overflow line, hence my focus on keeping the same return pump but increasing surface area drain in the over flow and a bigger drain hold for the over flow (25mm, now 32mm) the sup itself will not hold as much water due to the media being more, but thats fine. the sump is going to be a high biological focus, cos i dont wanna spend money on a high output pump (more than what i have now) i focus on putting more media insetead to offset loss of turn over vs biological filtration efficiency.