suphew

Could be an air bubble in the filter, give it a shake.

Personally I'd aways go for two smaller over one larger. You get redundancy, can clean one with out disturbing the other, two small (medium) sized ones are often cheaper than one of the less common large ones. I wouldn't buy a filter with UV, you may or may not be wanting to run UV, but you will always be wanting your filter on. They are different devices that do different jobs, IMO you should keep them separate. Same with heaters in filters. There are some really good deals on eheim filters at the moment, I've used Fluval's for years with never any problems, you'll find all the common brands are fine just stay away from something that seems to cheap to be true.

There are plenty of furniture restorers in Wellington. I don't think it is that important for them to know about tank stands, all they have to do repair it to the same standard or better than what it was. Different story if they were building from new but copying or repairing is easy.

Thats why I was asking if anyone else had been emailed, I only have my address in a couple of places. Managed to have it for a few years now and get almost zero spam. Thanks I'll keep looking, I have an idea who might have given it out.

Did anyone else get an email from netpets?? Just trying to figure out who's been giving out my email address.

Unless the spot (s) is there for at least 3 days it is NOT white spot. I have seen tangs so covered it's hard to tell what type they are, and they have recovered fine. As long as it keeps eating don't panic.

Likely it's not whitespot then. The 'white spots' are wounds that the parasite leaves as it exits the skin, they don't just appear and disappear.

I think the plastic ones rather than the steel wool type. You'd just want to make sure there wasn't want thing on them like cleaning agents.

Jolli is correct, pressure pipe (which is what hansen bulkhead fittings are) is measure inside diameter because that is what you would normally be interested in, i.e. how much flow will go through a diameter

Shut them in a room together for a day or two, it will be sorted one way or another.

Nothing other than vacuuming is going to keep your sand clean. What goes in must come out so all you would be doing is converting one type of fish pooh to another type. Your sand bed should either be very shallow (less then 1-2cm) so you can clean it yourself. Or very deep (10cm+) so it will work as a DSB. Personally I would recommend leaving sand out completely, at least for a few months until the tank has matured a bit.

Why post if your not going to read the replies. :roll:

Give Pete at Port Nick Glass a call, he is in Petone and makes a lot of the tanks in the lower North Island. The going rate was about $1 per liter, but I'm not sure if this is still how he works out his prices. He collects a lot of secondhand glass so is likely to be the cheapest if you decide to get the tank repaired.

Personally I would stay away from feeding things that don't naturally occur in the ocean, there are plenty of other options.

Yes you can make your own rock, there are a couple of guys in NZ that have done it and plenty of info on the web if you do a search. The biggest problem is the extra time it takes, you have to let the rock you made set and leach out, before you can start to cure it and make it into live rock. I've never done it but I'm guessing you would be looking at 6 months before you have good cured rock and can add your seahorses

Reef depot in Singapore sell them for between s$89 and s$120 allow an extra $50 or so for shipping

Theres plenty of aquamedic hardware in NZ, assuming thats what you mean?

Just add a second heater if one isn't keeping up. It's better to run two anyway in-case one fails.

I made my own bubble counter, but they are cheap enough to buy now. Basically I got a small clear(ish) pill bottle, drilled two holes in the lid, that are a tight fit round the tubing that I pushed through them. The tube coming from the needle valve goes to the bottom of the bottle, bottle is 1/2-3/4 filled with water, the other tube is above the water line. Once the gas is on you can see the bubbles going up through the water. You should also look at getting a one way valve to stop your bubble counter and tank water syphoning back into the CO2 bottle when the gas runs out. Theres a guy on TM that sell stainless steel ones for about $10, perlenz(?)

If it is white cloudy then it is a bacterial bloom,if green, algae bloom. Either way it will be your high nutrient's, keep up the water changes (might be worth testing your new water in-case you are adding more nutrient's), and reduce your feeding for a while. You might also want to look at your filter if it's not keeping up.

http://www.sog.co.nz/

Can't help with all your questions but here some answers It's important you check this as soon as possible, because it could be dangerous. You only need to wait a couple of minutes for the heater to cool down, the short time this whole operation will take (5-10 minutes) shouldn't see your temperature dropping at all. No heaters can crack and just sit there waiting to kill you. They wont explode, at most if the crack is bad the glass might come apart and fall off. Use more than 1 heater, this is good practice any way in case your heater fails, two heaters should have no problems keeping your tank temperature up. Unless people have a number of tanks I don't understand why they keep a spare heater out of the tank, it makes far more sense to put it in the tank, even setting the temperature a degree lower than the other heater if you like so it only comes on when the other fails. Have you added any insulation to the back (and sides) of your tank? A sheet of poly taped to the back can make a huge difference

As I said the bottle come from a scrap metal dealer, I just walked in and asked for his best looking CO2 fire extinguisher. The one I got was aluminum, but the tester said if you can get a really old steel one they are more likely to pass the test. The company that did the certification and changed the valve is here. http://yellow.co.nz/companies/Gas-Cylinder-Testing/Porirua-Cylinder-Testing-Laboratory/100412079_8405.html Which is no use to you at all unless you want to travel down to Wellington. I also got my regulator from him, but BOC sells them as do a few other places (like TM) just make sure you get a CO2 one, some of the other type's can't handle the acidic CO2. Once the CO2 is coming out of the regulator it is low pressure and you can treat it just like air coming out of your air pump.

Maybe you could explain the difference between T5, T8, T12, in terms of size, output, and effiency. Also (I think for T5 only) there are high output and very high output tubes??? Also electronic and magnetic ballasts People might be interested in power compacts and CFL's as well?? Think you might have started yourself a monster here, good luck!

Oh and once you have used bottled CO2 you will wonder why any one would ever bother with those DIY yeast CO2 things. Don't forget plants need nutrients, light and CO2 to grow, so make sure you sort out a good substrate and light as well or you are wasting your time with CO2.