suphew

Not really any tropical ones but there are cold water mantis

I think the clip problem has been fixed now, but if you buy it in NZ and get one that doesn't have the new clips you can get them replaced for free under the warranty

All the tunze pump far too much water if your only after 2000lph, I think the smallest does more than double that. Have a look at the online marine retailers like http://www.reefdepot.com.sg/ usually listed under wave makers.

What sort of tunze are you looking at, off the top of my head they four different types and at least three sizes within each type. Then there are the old models and new models, the new nano's for example seem to be better then the old, the old streams seem to be better then the new.

I think the law of diminishing returns applies. If you haven't done much else to your car, there are far far better ways to get far more performance for far less. If your at the point of eking out the last bit of performance then go for it. I was told once by a Porsche specialist mechanic that you need to gain round 10% in power before you can really 'feel' any difference. So if your driving a stock 1973 Datsun 1200, then 7.5hp might make a huge difference, otherwise unless your looking to shave a thousand of a second off a 1/4 mile your wasting your time.

There are a number of different type's and sizes of fluro tube, and you do have to make sure you get the correct one, you can't just mix and match. Commonly there are T12, T8, T5, tubes all of which are a different diameter, and within some of these sizes there are different types like high output (HO) , and very high output (VHO), tube's. The easiest way to check you have the correct tube is to look at the wattage. Every single type of tube uses a different wattage so there is no way of confusing them. The wattage is how the ballast (supplies the power to the tube) is matched to the tube and it is important to match them otherwise the ballast could be overloaded and in the worst case cause a fire.

My very large pedestal fan only uses 50w, a small desk like you would need probably only use 15w or 1/4 the power of a single light bulb. There is no reason you can't just plug it in and leave it going 24/7, the fan will only drop the temp 2-3 degree's anyway, just enough to fix your problem. Just watch the evaporation from the tank, are your puffers in brackish water? Remember only the fresh water evaporates not the salt, so you will need to add fresh to top the water level up otherwise your salinity will increase and before you know it you'll have a full salt water setup.

Don't use the white ball valves, they are crap and will jam (note WILL not might). You want the blue ones. Mico plumbing sells them. I'd post a picture but seems the resizing thing has stoppped and I can't but you should be able to click on the link. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i109/suphew/Image023.jpg

No rush

I have enough for ten 40liter tanks :lol: Yeah it's in my sump, so still alive. Sorry no pic it's just a pipe of rock.. lots of sizes, shapes.

How much do you need? I have some I just removed from my display tank if your can pick up from Wellington. $10kg

Wouldn't it be simpler to go into the supermarket, spend $1 on some chewing gum, show the clamper your receipt and tell him to Mod=Warren: Implied Swearing removed - warning sentwith his clamp? Or you could do as you say then spend $10000 on a good lawyer try and test the law and if your lucky and get a good judge you might get out of paying the $280.

Cherrs

Are antibiotic's okay to use with the loaches? I'd understood that epson salts drew out the gas bubble via osmosis but wasn't sure if this applied or was safe to do with loaches.

Moved Jane's tank a couple of times recently, but kept filters etc running, have also been doing pretty decent water changes a couple of times a week. But am having trouble with a couple of the fish getting popeye. There are a number of loaches in the tank, clown, chain, yoyo, etc so I'm not sure how to treat?? Can I use Epson salt's with loaches? Does it work?

Are you sure it's nitrate and not nitrite?? That level of nitrate should be fine, you might get a bit of algae growth but that would be the worst of it (short term anyway) High levels of organics in the water can cause low pH, which could be caused by the lack of water changes. Of course having soft water also means your pH wont be very stable, so there could be a significant difference in reading between morning and evening, over night the plants slow down their use of CO2 leaving more in the water which pushes down the pH

First thing to do would be go online and get it to run all the updates. making sure you have the lastest version and patches for media player. If this doesn't help you could down load VLC media player, it's a good program and will play just about anything.

Your Durso isn't going to work from how it looks in the picture's. You need to have an over flow box and an elbow on the inlet to the durso. I also can't see any reducer as discussed a few posts ago. If it's quite and your happy with it then all is good, but I suspect it's going to sound like someones draining a bath day and night.

Bunnings and the like sell scouring pads used by painters, they are the same as the kitchen pot scrubbers but without the extra stuff like anti-bacterial, soap, etc. Pumice is another option as is scoria

Sorry the old site used to have all the tuning information with the DIY info, and it was in there. I guess it is buried in the FAQ section now. The reducer gives back pressure to the top of the standpipe, you can't put the reduction too far down or it affects the (partial) syphon and causes a flushing noise (water level going up and down in the overflow). You also can't use the tap to make the reduction because of the risk of things catching on the partially closed tap

Read the durso web site, it explains it all.

I see your in Wellington, drop me a pm and come see my overflow and sump.

I have build a few sumps and a couple of durso's. The design shown is almost right, but needs a reducer down the pipe a bit, people often complain that their durso's are noisy, and it's aways because they don't build or tune them correctly. Here is a link to the original durso stand pipe web site which has the full and correct instructions. Make sure you use a bulkhead (sometimes called tank fittings) for the hole in your tank, they are cheap, bunnings has them, there's no point at all mucking round with any thing else. You wont save any money but you will risk losing lots of water. In your sump, you need to have the pump on or near the bottom of the tank, put an extra divider in and have the water go under the first then over the second with the pump sitting by itself in the last chamber. You also need to design the sump so the normal water level is low enough that if the power goes off the sump can hold all the water that syphons back down the pumps pipe work. I strongly suggest that you hook up with someone who has a sump system and go and have a look, there are lots of things you need to consider, some of which if you get them wrong will cause a lot of water to end up on your floor.

From memory it cost me $10 for the bottle (from scrap dealler, with offer to swap for another if it failed cert), $100 for valve, and $30 for certificate. This was 4-5 years ago but I don't think prices have changed that much

BOC is a global company. I'd put money on this guy being some junior marketing dweeb paid to do this rubbish all day.