petplanet

Ok, just a few observations I have made recently with my tank. 2 months ago I picked up a nice Powder Blue Tang (thanks ghostface) and threw it in with my other three Tangs (blue, yellow and Scopus). As I expected they proceeded to stress each other out and there was a minor whitespot outbreak. Only the Tangs got it, all the other fish were fine (Bi-colour Blenny, Blue Line Clarki Clown, Flame Angel, 2 x Chromis). We are getting major house renovations done and the electrician is a real numb nuts. I have told him countless times - if you turn the power off, check the tank RCD's when you turn it back on. I don't think he has remembered once so my tanks are averaging 1 power cut a week, anywhere from 1 hour to 12 hours. - This will not be helping the situation!!! I did nothing to treat the whitespot and it stayed the same. Went to Australia for ten days, came back, whitespot still the same. Doubled the amount I was feeding the fish, I figured this would help keep the Tangs busy (1/2 sheet of Nori a day) and ensure the Powder Bue got enough food as it was shy at feeding time. Whitespot reduced on all the other Tangs and increased on the Powder Blue (all over body and fins, loss of colour in the body, fins turned white). Added two big Cleaner Shrimps (already had 2 Fire Shrimps), figured they may help. Whitespot came back on other Tangs. Added a 36w UV with a pump pushing 3600 l/h through it. This has had a MAJOR impact on the tank. First the skimmer output went through the roof. At least 3-4 times the normal output (Aqua Medic 1000 with AquaBee needle wheel). The output was much more liquid than usual. The UV has been on for two weeks now. Whitespot is clear on all the other Tangs (has been for the last week), the Powder Blue has returned to its usual colour and the fins are clear, whitspot is only on the body, condition is improved. Skimmer output is still through the roof but it is now as thick as it used to be pre UV. The foam is very dry and it keeps popping the lid of the skimmer. I did not think the UV would have this much impact. All the Tangs are feeding well so hopefully they are on the way back to full health.

http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=GT3045&CATID=42&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=741

http://www.grisda.org/origins/10051.htm Are the current temperature shifts really anything new? The little ice age wiped out the Vikings in Greenland and they were growing grape crops in Southern England during the warm period because the climate was like Northern France. Why did it get so warm and then so cold? Not global warming. How did the reefs cope then. They survived those changes.

Brand? Cost?

Ditto on the upgrading. If it will be awhile, go for the Jebo skimmer. It is a good little skimmer, great for the price. I would take the Blue Tang back. For a couple of reasons. 1 - a little delicate especially for a starter fish, 2 - not the right type of fish for a 110 litre tank. If feed well they can grow quickly.

About $110. The bulb needs replacing about every 6-7000 hours so if it is running 24/7 that would be around every nine months. I had a look at the Deltec site and the design looks the same to me. Water goes in, passes a UVC bulb in a quartz sleeve and exits the unit. The Pondmaster flow rate is for pond use were algae control is the goal. Reduce the flow and you would have the same effect. http://www.deltecaquariumsolutions.com/UvInstructions.php What brand of bulb does Deltec use?

I don't think the Asian ones are that bad. You can pickup a new 36w for as little as $240.00. They run Philips bulbs. The only major difference you might get is the water contact time with the UV. That can easily be varied by pumping a lower volume of water through the unit. THe 36w can take 24000 litres an hour and I can't see anyone putting that volume threw one into their tank.

Adding one shortly. Just need to plumb it up.

Yeah, they are great if you want yet another thing you won't see during the day but you can watch eating your corals in the dead of night.

If it's a cowrie then avoid it or buy at your peril.

So, what is the count up to?

No, just means your anemone is getting healthier. Healthy anemones have more stinging cells than unhealth ones and are a lot more sticky. I have seen a male clarki clown grab and drag another fish (new to the tank but no where near the anemone), letting it go centimetres away from the anemone. If I had still had the female who was twice his size and VERY aggressive, that fish would have been toast.

I just worked out how to do my cooling system today. Was working on something else (data cable in the house) and the solution for the tank cooling became obvious. Basically the problem was in summer: Outside of house during day very hot (sun trap), night time cool Basement of house day time cool, night time hot Fishroom between the two. I got a temp controller of Jetski awhile ago (will even pay for it at some stage ) so I am going to plug fans into the cooling side. I will also put them on timer switches so during the day only the fans bringing air in from the basement will work and at night only the fans bring it in from outside will work. That way the air coming in will be the lowest temperature available. I was trying to get super technical and all I need is timer switches!

One problem, your 13w Jebo light.

Kong's (NZ) Ltd are the importers of the JBL test kits and they are in Tauranga. They may (but I doubt it) be able to help. The CA and MG kits do not have colour charts. I can send you the instructions for those.

We sell it in bulk for $6 per kilo. Cheap as. Would be a little expensive to post to Canada.

All 04 series parts are still available. The 05 series is pretty much all the same. Any petshop will be able to order them in. Goodluck if you need parts for an 03 series. Some are still available.

What about crushed marble. 2mm size. Comes in a 25kg sack. Costs about $50 for a sack. VERY white.

UV unit and a pump. Pondmaster 5w unit is only $100, pump might cost you $70-$150ish. UV tube is good for about 9 months if run 24/7. Do regular water changes. Don't overstock, shade if possible (plants can do this).

More than happy to swap them for a couple of Seio pumps if you have to turn them down.

So how long can a bacteria live for?

So how does a tank cycle so quickly? Is it just bacteria moving in to a suitable enviroment as opposed to bacteria reproducing? I am planning on using a 4 foot for a refuge. Mainly to grow algae and pods so the fish have rocks with more life on them to pick over. The added bonus will be nutrient export if the algae growth goes to well.

So, since two of you have read it. what is the Readers Digest version?

From that discription it doesn't sound like bubble algae at all and the think in the photo does not look like it. Check out the images on this sight. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-02/hcj/feature/index.php It might just be some type of sponge if it is prickly.

We will see. If the remaining polyps recover then he will remain suspect number one. The only common denominator between the two other tanks were Mr Crab, a bi-colour blenny and two fire shrimps. I don't think the shrimps or the bi-colour could remove chunks out of solf corals.