chimera

still trying huh? :lol: if you could pick up, you are more than welcome to a couple from me. cant be arsed couriering though, sorry

As you probably know wasp, I've stopped dosing zeovit myself. Only for the fact that the corals are too light coloured, I prefer the deeper colours. I am interested in the CV and amino acids (in fact, have been for sometime just never got around to enquiring with Brendan) Have PM'd him now though. I believe zeovit certainly helped reduce my nutrients, took a while but thats probably due to the crappy rock I had from day one - should have cooked it The caleurpa I had in the fuge used to grow like a weed, now I'd be pulling out a strand or two every couple of weeks. The rock in my display is going through it's new "cycling" process because of the new lights. I can see colour where I've never seen it before - and that was after stopping zeovit - however I dont believe it's because I stopped zeovit, moreso to the lighting upgrade I did at the same time. I dosed to the levels indicated and probably more often than not, underdosed. Now my nutrients are low (taking them as low due to the very slow caleurpa growth and the good colours Im starting to get) I'm keen on "feeding" the corals with CV and amino's.

no worries! get some pics up of your setup!

you got other fish though that are still alive though? so only new additions or existing fish too? at a guess i dont think it would be an invert - chances are it would die before a fish would. plus the cleaner was probably just doing its job and cleaning the fish as opposed to infecting it. maybe it's the same disease that went around about a year ago that caused some to lose quite a few fish. i remember pies lost at least half a dozen

Get a few people together to buy some goodies from MD to get the shipping cost down. I've dealt direct with them a couple of times in the past putting in some large orders, they've always been helpful

well, not quite, but as I was taking a photo of the tank the blue tang darted across the front of it (slow shutter speed) ghost tang!

QT the shrimp

trying to take a light sided approach warren, unlike some people. the main point being the last post on the above link, from a german guy alexandar. he offers some interesting information.

zeovit! :lol: brought it back up again. only reason is coz i somehow got to this page, posted march 2004. made me laugh... http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/1-vt2306.html?start=0

:lol: my biggest issue is coz the tanks an inwall in a separate room that's not ventilated. most tanks are open in the house (although would likely add more to condensation issues?) just setup a fan to come on when the timer for the lights comes on

get the same problem, in WINTER - have to run my chiller more power costs. am going to ventilate the lighting hood this weekend to extract the hot air more. you can effectively use fans off dead computer power supplies for this (12v)

my only question is, you're running an in-sump skimmer and the overflow outlet drains into the same section as the skimmer. ensure you have no micro bubbles in here it can affect the skimmer pumps operation. to an extent too fast and you dont have enough dwell time for the skimmer or, some theories say slower flow through fuge's - dont personally think it matters

spinach?

top job dude. one little point - leave more space between acro's, thats the mistake i made they grow quick and into each other! don't underestimate how much room they need

and this photo, cant find any before shots but it was only yellow, now its getting purple tips. this closeup/cropped shot is with T5's on only, will get a better shot later (i cropped it to just show the yellow, purple on blue background coz it looks cool ) its quite an insane yellow with the halides on.

if too much light does stunt growth, then so be it because the colour gains are huge. pics are when going from 3 x 150W halides + 2 actinic T5's to 3 x 400W halides + 2 actinics - making an exceptional difference (exactly the same camera and camera settings) a pic of my monti digitata taken just prior to the halides being upgraded. (note that the monti is now smaller on the left side coz i broke a heap of branchs off when i pulled out the left rock in order to remove a BTA :evil: ) oh well, nevermind, change in 2 months... 3rd JULY 2006 10th SEPT 2006

nice! some mega growth in there since i saw it last, wow! what are you dosing, steroids?

pics pics pics! although will be good to see it in action when i come over next weekend

i like the fact that full syphons are fully silent (because the air is removed from the plumbing which is what creates the noise) the thing i dont like about a full syphons is they have more risk (and no matter what layton says more risk than durso) you are in essence restricting the overflow pipe by ball valve down to the minimum possible size that will allow the syphon to suck water only (and not too big that the water lowers so far that it starts to suck air) so it takes alot less to block the pipe and flood the tank. ok, so you add an overflow cover,... but baby snails can get through overflow combs, baby snails can live in overflows and grow, baby snails turn into big daddy snails that can block pipes at least with the durso you can go with a large pipe and still maintain a large enough surface area. i run 40mm down, i could stick a snail in the pipe and it wouldnt do anything to the flow, plenty of room in the pipe to spare. so ok, build extra pipes into the syphon overflow for redundancy, but that then indicates a design flaw in the full syphon - having to add a safety factor, compensating for something that may not have been adjusted correctly or because it gets blocked. ultimately its a trade off of course between complete silence with FS versus slightly noiser durso. there are clear pro's and con's of each. however i'd really love a combo of both, dead silent like the FS yet safer and lower maintenance like the durso. also something that does not require a ball valve or any need to make adjusments. can it be done? if there is no other easy solution, then i guess full syphon WITH backup pipe as redundancy (which is the only way i could install it without worrying about flooding the hose ) is the best way for *complete* silence

she's a puppy now, but then again, she's a bullmastiff so its a BIG dog house! :lol:

damn 8)

but surely the pipe going down to the sump must be full to suck water down? i run a 40mm pipe down, no surging at all in the overflow with durso, is this because its large enough to cope with the flow of water? (in other words it also has sufficient air in the pipe?) i see what you mean about the water dropping to the inlet - only when the pump is turned off AND their is no air in the pipe. so there would need to be a hole in the U bend

rubbish. that is completely impossible. how can it suck water down to the inlet? the water level in the overflow MUST be a minimum of the U bend - it has no where else to go otherwise (unless out the top of the tank and onto the floor)

works much like any typical basin or bath plug does, except that in this case the inlet is below the U section. since it's submerged so deep, it shouldn't cause the "whirlpool" effect. not sure if it would still surge though? cant see how it would if there was no air - unless it got air coming back up from the sump end? ah it's all in theory, personally i wouldnt know til i tried it out just trying to get some feedback to know whether its worth attempting or not same as any other design in terms of blockage though, snail gets in overflow floods

actually, its not even a syphon, it doesnt suck water down, it flows to the level of the upside down U pipe