chimera

have emailed them and asked. thanks!

Not yet dude. Have been flat out with other stuff (family mainly!!!) The items I need to do are: - Container for RODI topup water - Lowering right hand side reef rack - New spray bar under the tank with holes that point down, forward and up - More live rock on reef rack and refugium - Finishing hooking up the SCWD's on the closed loops - Install laundry tub and plumb waste between refug and sump - Finish tank-to-tank plumbing between refug and sump (with ball valve) - Install new Iwaki (when it turns up!) I've put some sand in the refugium (thanks for JSS for selling some to me) and tried to get hold of Ivan several times about his live sand but he never returned my call. If anyone else in Auckland has some live sand, I'm interested! Cheers.

I was VERY precise in my last email to them!!! I even included a copy of the email correspondance that went back and forth, an original copy of the shipping invoice so they can reimburse me, a copy of all their original shipping doc's and a reminder to put "REPLACEMENT" and the original tracking number when the correct pump is shipped back out!

I thought that might have happened - pity about the wrong pump being sent, a hassle and a risk you take with mail order but yeah, at least they will refund the shipping. It costs USD$25 more to send it BACK from NZL to USA! Fedex require the replacement pump to say "REPLACEMENT" with the original tracking number along side so that I dont have to pay GST again!!! Oh well, another 4 - 6 weeks wait...

1/9HP - so about 83 watts. I would rather send this one back and get a 240V model. Here is his response to my email:

bastard,... they sent the 115V version...

selley's aqua knead-it

well they might as well have bent me over right there and then, just rang up for a price, $162.12

it's his 2nd

here's an alternative: http://www.stowers.co.nz/ Huge selection, all sorts of sizes. I'll probably head out there tomorrow to get this 120 litre barrel: for RODI topup. Unless anyone knows anywhere else thats good? The only restriction is that it cant be more than 540mm wide/diameter and I need it to be (preferably) transparent/opaque so I can see the water level easily!

arhhh, the birdie lives!

i think the little birdy is dead coz it aint saying much

store in 200 litre plastic barrel for a couple of months

Box is complete, all powered up and tested. Works a treat. Going to mount this on the wall soon (as soon as I put some new ply up) I also got the moonlight going tonight too. Very effective! Post some pic's of that later.

Go to the msn web page with your photo's on it then click the photo you want so you view it enlarged. Then, right click the photo and choose properties. It will give you the full URL (or address) to the picture. Highlight the URL and copy it. Come back to this site then paste it onto a post here ( had to remove any text shown after the .jpg) then highlight it again and "img" tag it like you have done your other pics!

bound to be. does this in large work (test) yup!

Well a mate and I wired up a solution for this today using the relay as above. I wanted 4 outputs (to run 2 x MH's and 2 x actinic blue T5's - yet to get) There are 2 inputs into this unit. One provides the power to the relay and the other switches it on/off via the timer. Here's the pic. Am going to make a box for it tomorrow to seal it. I have tested it and it works very well. A little more expensive than ya average analog timer but at least it has battery backup from the HPM digital and regulates the voltage across 4 outputs all of which are able to be individually powered on/off. Starting to assemble: Complete: The white wire provides power to the lights. The green wire comes from the timer and switches the relay (thus "white wired" lights) on/off.

well I certainly wont be going arcadia then. what are those other ballasts you're talking about reef?

dont see why you need twin overflows on a 4 foot tank. too small - unless you are only doing this for redundancy. but if the first blocks up, you'll have more troubles than this. imo, twin overflows only need doing in 6ft and larger tanks UNLESS your water turnover is MASSIVE. however, you should be able to reduce flow through one overflow without it overflowing. if you put in a durso standpipe, you could adjust the water level in the overflows that way and adjust the flow rate my using a ball valve on the piping outside the tank. too finicky and open for error though IMO! I even took a photo for you I dont bother adjusting mine as I want it fast as possible! If it were on your setup, you would simply turn the blue tap to adjust flow rate.

Just to continue this little query from a few months back.... I have 2 x 250W 10K MHs and was looking at putting 2 x 5 ft actinic blue T5's down the sides. From what I have read, it is still extremely important to cover the blue spectrum as and I quote "the natural habitats of many popular reef aquarium organisms have a bluer light spectrum--a light spectrum around 7100K that is commonly referred to as actinic. (Deeper water is bluer because as one travels deeper into water the longer light waves, toward the red end of the spectrum, are filtered out.). For effective lighting you need both the full spectrum daylight provided by the metal halide bulbs along with the actinic lighting provided by the power compact bulbs" So if I get a couple of ballasts and T5's, whats the recommended brand? I hear Arcadia are "ok" in this area but nothing to rave about. Any other suggestions? Anyone selling 2nd hand? (dont want your crap stuff though )

any updates pies?

thought so, never seen it with the ends so pink before. is it fraggable?!

they rock! awesome colour, or lack of

awesome, whats the one of the right? some type of frog spawn???

so that would be a pearly-green-pearly coral then