chimera

yeah ira, thats essentially what i meant

the whole water tank is surrounded in metal bracing. The auction for this one closes in 23 hours: http://www.trademe.co.nz/structure/0004-0375-0044-/auction-15998360.htm

Clowns have finally gone nuts in the Anemone Here's some pic's of the comb I designed, got cut, molded and installed!!! Luckily I got 2 made coz I broke the first trying to bend it without letting the heat gun do it's job first... :-? Comb lasercut (free plug: North Shore Laser = great service!) Paper ripped off, heat gun out and molded into shape: and finally, the comb installed in the overflow: The last thing I have to do is create a "lid" for it which will essentially be a piece of tinted perspex that will be siliconed on top to stop algae growing in the overflow. The whole unit is easily removable - very happy with it.

zeovit debate... dont start... Barry's barrels - 09 475 5531, he does 1,000 litre tanks which are huge. I think about $160. I am looking at buying one and welding it to an old trailor I have and use it to collect NSW

brendan pops out of no where once again... hope you're not going to spark up THAT debate again! :lol: :lol: :lol:

hence my home made aquarium computer system will have all this built in if you cant buy it cheap, build it yourself better.

doc - exactly what Im trying to do. pies - theoretically this is the same as mine. it should run 6 days @ 5 litres evaporation a day or 3 days at 10 litres evaporation a day (again, since the install is relatively new, I havent monitored this exactly yet) I have elected not to get the Tunze. Instead, i will be building my own fully automated system that will hook into my PC. It will have redundancy and intelligence built into it. Of course, it doesnt mean I will be relying solely on the computer and componentry to perform regular maintenance tasks or checks, simply to assist where necessary. I will sell you all a system in 6 months time when its fully designed and tested

point taken. iwaki can NOT run dry.

it will disappear from your outbox once the other person has read it.

Pies, check your PM!!!

for @#$%@#$%^ sake it's NOT THAT COMPLEX!!! forget i ever asked!

blah

yeah Ira, coz $5 would really break the bank...

cellphone is overboard for me. its a matter of putting my money where failure is most likely. That is with the sump running dry and destroying a $1k pump because my $25 timer that controls dosing pump for top up shags itself because im away on holiday. i agree in one way that my sump design could have been better. better in the fact that the area that feeds the pump (after the 3 micro-bubble reducing baffles) only holds about what I would guess to be about 40 odd litres. evaporation is about 5 litres a day from what I can gauge so far; about a week leeway. i will wait anxiously for those who will say "yeah, but your main tank has all your corals, fish etc which is where the money is". my answer to that is the risk factor. The main tank has an overflow, safe to assume (taking away glass cracking and closed loop plumbing failing) that it is fine. I am covering my arse where failure is MOST LIKELY - that is failure for top-up via dosing - either I fail to remember to top up fresh water resoviour, timer fails, dosing pump fails etc. Plumbing is always a possible failure but much less likely. Glass cracking on any tank is even far less likely.

and indeed no complaints have been made, simply an idea to enhance what currently exists

I dont see how this can be a problem with my setup. 1. The heaters are hooked up to and controlled by a 3rd party temperature controller 2. The builtin thermostats in the heaters are set to 26 degree's 3. Each heater is in a separate baffle so no heat coming off one heater can directly influence another Sure, if we're just talking the average joe who has a couple of heaters and no temperature controller, then this may have an affect.

yeah but it doesnt monitor how fast the temperature changes overtime and adjusts that way does it. it simply has min(low) and max(high) set points, measures water temperature and turns on or off accordingly. is this all layton was meaning?

i dont think our ones are that flash layton! just simply a min/max on/off type arrangment.

oh come off it bill, i said some not all forums... and you actually wasted your time counting them all :roll:

As i said, its primarily for protecting a $1,000 return pump for roughly $250 more (or of course alot less if it were diy). Who knows where a leak may occur - especially if I went away for a weekend,.. or even a day,... or possibly even 5 minutes? The main tank and refugium are "protected" by overflows. The sump is protected by nothing, nor is the plumbing between each tank and nor is extended power failure or failure of a dosing pump for topup due to evaporation. Its a risk im not willing to take as warranty is void if the pump fails from running dry. Question is about these particular units, not whether I need one or not.

pic's section is not a problem if you point your image to a URL on your own site (rather than using fnzas as an upload site) still believe there should be a larger differential between freshies and salties. I think some sections could be taken out of the "Aquarium Advice" forum: http://www.aquariumadvice.com/index.php

sump and return pump, not main tank.

Pies - yes and no. The last post I enquired about this was for auto-top up. i dont necessarily want that, Im more interested in turning off the Iwaki if the water hits a low level. Protecting my investment as such

Water level monitor system - anyone use this? Are they any good? reference: http://www.tunze.com/deutsch/index.html?target=p_1894.html〈=en-gb

definately. the site is growing and there is more and more interest in marine.