chimera

RE: check valves, i realise that, but I can blow through both ends without a problem?! perhaps it only works with liquids? RE: sea-swirl, how much water gets squirted out through your "reverse syphon" holes and how many/how big are they? have you put your finger over them to see if water increases significantly out the main outlet nozzle?

yeah the brass thing is a check valve. its got a little arrow on it which I assume is the direction of the CO2 under normal operation. power went off for 8 hours yesterday (planned outage of 5 hours, turned into 8) the main tank temperature dropped from 25 to 23 degree's, sump temperature went to 21 degrees. anyways, the check valve seemed to do the trick although strangely there were small traces of water in the line between the check valve and reg? maybe i dont have the valve around the right way? you'll see what i mean re: check valve on sea-swirl when i do it. i'll post photo's. i guarantee you will notice the same effects on your new tank with your sea-swirls.

The hole size was based on a recommendation from the sea-swirl guys. Any bigger and it has negative affects on the performance of flow coming out the actual sea-swirl nozzle (ie: under normal operation). I have been thinking about adding a one-way air-valve into the sea-swirl nozzle, slightly above the water line. It would be a one-way valve that does not allow anything out but can suck air in. This would stop the water reverse syphoning completely (well, only what is in the pipe at the time will reverse syphon into the sump, water in the main tank wont) I think a push fit with silicon to hold it would be best. Anyone know where I could get such a valve? Pies, re: making two elbows into one, yeah I will look at the feasibility of that also. cheers.

thanks alan, yeah i know what they look like now you mention it. i'm still keen on giving them a go. cant be that hard to do!

coz the pump will stick out over the door entrance! i'll remove the elbow in the sump. the bubbles are caused by a small hole drilled in the sea-swirl, meaning that only small air is drawn into the pipe as it reverse syphons rather than one large amount which would probably fix the problem. but problem without that small hole closer to the water surface is that too much water is drawn out of the main tank when it does reverse syphon. a ups or non-return valve will be the go. i seriously dont believe the sump elbows etc have anything to do with reverse syphoning - only performance of the pump itself. cheers.

I want to try using Mangrove's to control nitrates (I only have minute traces of Nitrates at 0.2ppm and 0ppm of phosphates - but I want to be proactive here) Is anyone using them? Everything I read about them says they are the most efficient "natural" way of removing nitrates from your tank. Anyone know where you can get seeds from? As per an article on the web: Not sure if I'd go as far as removing the skimmer though Also, I have traces of diatom growth in my tank. I thought my brown algae was from silicates that may have come from the coral sand I purchased recently but I doubt it cause its always been around. Any ideas - especially since nitrates/phosphates are so low/non-existant? Here's a good read up about Mangroves http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/nitratecontrol/a/aa072999_2.htm The only post I could find on Mangroves here was this: http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?t=2298 but it didn't say much. Anyone else?

I use a small aquamedic nitratereductor,... but thats only to assist me when i slack off. the key is reducing what causes the nitrate build ups in the first place. so, make sure you do regular water changes, keep a low (or adequate) bio-load, ensure there are no dead spots by having good circulation, topoff with RODI water etc. Read this: http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/nitratecontrol/ Just tested my nitrates tonight with a salifert kit, 0.2ppm

Beer fridge? Thats what the chiller is for :lol: I hooked up my Calcium reactor last night. It's more in a temporary place at the moment until I find a better location for it (pending other bits and pieces to be finished first) but, at least it's up and running to provide some calcium carbonate and buffering to my tank - finally! I also removed the small baffle in the sump that sorrounded the outlet to the Iwaki. I now have approximately 35 litres (another 10 litres after baffle was removed) of evaporation before the water level will drop low enough causing the Iwaki to run dry. Note that white "strainer" has been removed from the outlet as well.

Arhhh, good old rotovegas. Was down their last weekend, there's so much to do in your town! I wonder if the phos has something to do with the ground Rotorua sits on (all the mud and stuff! :-?)

In that case MAKE SURE you get an RLT model (high pressure). At that head height, I wouldnt get less than an MD-70RLT. I would imagine even 2nd hand, you wont get much change out of $600. Your best bet (and cheapest by a few hundred dollars than buying brand new in NZL) is to buy brand new from MarineDepot in States. Make sure you specify 240V model (probably around US$30 more than what is listed on their site) To give you a comparison, I bought an MD-55RLT from them to do 9ft (3 metres) of head. I estimate the flow rate to be about 950gph (or 3,500 lph which is near perfect for my Sea-swirl) For you, to do another 1 or 2 metres of head, you will definately need the 70RLT http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=IK1173 Should set you back about NZL$700 tops, (that includes shipping and gst to pay at customs) Also make sure you get the Japanese motor (MD) not the American (WD) much more reliable!!! Just to reiterate, DONT waste your time and money and think an RXT will do the job!!!

at that flow rate and at 0 head, a MD-20RXT will do the trick.

you still have to take into account the pumps costing something, as they are assets if you sell them they are worth $$$ to you. i would also add on 200% to the cost for miscellaneous shit you haven't even thought about yet or surprises along the way. but thats just my experience in business (and house rennovations!!!)

HAAAAAAAAAA HAAAAAAAA HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAa now THAT is funny! Make sure you get heaps of crane pic's!!! :lol:

for freshwater tank, not necessarily. for saltwater tank, yes in most cases. also depends on where you live though I guess, eg: christchurch seems to have very good water from what i've read. auckland,... bah! crap! :lol:

Just a word of Warning!!! Pies, we got it around the wrong way (and I cant read!!!) According to Korallin instruction sheet: NEVER USE THE SILICON TUBES FOR CO2!!! and here's confirmation on that: REF: http://www.korallin.de/kalkreaktor2.html

interesting link from that site: http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ug_jets.php

A little hard to come by 2nd hand. Phone Anthony Preston Limited in Howick, Auckland. Should cost you around $450 - $550 for a 4 stage RO/DI unit.

cool

cool, thats what i got thanks.

just going back to the new tank syndrome (NTS) mentioned earlier, might be wise to read this to give you an understanding of what we all mean: http://www.bestfish.com/breakin.html

whats the preferred type of tubing to use for this? the korralin calcium reactor instruction sheet said not to use the green opaque tubing that comes with the reactor from the co2 regulator to the reactor. i bought some hagen elite (silicon) airline tubing from jansens - the guy there thought that should be ok. what does everyone else use? pies - what do you use on your korralin?

i understand the idea but dont agree with the theory. essentially, a 25mm inlet with a 25mm pipe feeding it is like a long 25mm inlet. IMO, this would only hold true if the water inlet is below the existing water level which is currently is (otherwise the pressure of the water to the inlet would need priming so it could be "sucked" into the pump). the only limiting factor i can see is a minor restriction due to friction in the pipe or bends leading to the inlet. i would think this is negligible over such a short distance. i would say however, i agree in that the pipe 'cover/strainer' is more a limiting factor. i'll remove this (not really needed) and see how she performs. i maybe wrong, but thats my theory!

As I thought too, but it does and bubbles back into the tank. I thought the bubbles should go down as far as the water level in the sump but no further. I would imagine it's because of the shear height (assisted by gravity). When it starts sucking air it gets momentum and the air bubbles just keep going! Thats why I said "sort of like" the affects of cavitation. Cavitation is where the formation and collapse of low-pressure bubbles in liquids by means of mechanical forces, such as those resulting from rotation of a marine propeller, cause performance degredation. Good old dictionary.com The pipe going from the sump into the Iwaki is the same size as the inlet into the Iwaki. The restriction is the Iwaki inlet so it is getting enough water. Under normal operation, it works perfectly fine. As I say, its only when the power is switched on AS the bubbles are going down the pipe. Its possibly the fact that the return pipe is too small (reduced coming out of the Iwaki outlet) causing more immediate pressure and thus more tighter back pressure when it reverse syphons. The thing is it eventually needs a reducer anyway (needs reducing when it gets to the Sea-swirl) It would make sense to use a larger return pipe though so the flow-rate starts reducing at the main tank rather than immediately from the outlet of the Iwaki. Not sure if all this adds to the problem Im having here though. I think I'll fit a non-return valve (larger than the return pipe diameter - just have to use reducers - or bugger it, just enlarge the entire return pipe) to the return pipe thats the quickest and easiest way to resolve.

i dont have an issue with my plumbing. the iwaki sits below the water level of the sump. the sea-swirl (at the other end) sits below the water level. when the power goes off, it reverse syphons (as the sea-swirl nozzles sits below the water surface and there is a small hole drilled in the seaswirl nozzle just above the output to reduce the amount of water reverse syphoning) As the water gets lower in the main tank, it starts sucking air back down the pipe - this is normal (and needed) as it eventually stops the water from reverse syphoning. my issue is when the power goes back on RIGHT AT THAT POINT IN TIME as air is being sucked back down the pipe. UPS would be the go. I was keen on getting one but they're expensive new. Just waiting for one to show up at work... free or cheap!...

RnB - that is a very ignorant approach to the issue. If you can send me a letter signed by the Director of the powerboard saying if power does go off, it will either be a couple of seconds or an extended period of time and we will provide guarantee's on it, then I will be happy! :lol: I very much doubt this can be controlled. It IS a risk and an expensive one if the Iwaki blows up simply because of a power cut. There is ALWAYS a possibility. I like to cover my butt on all areas of failure - and thats just the attitude you tend to adopt when working in the I.T. industry! Thanks for the dosh, post some pic's of the Iwaki in action!