chimera

from other sites i've read they recommend it's introduced to refugium first because it prefers sponges, algae etc - just what my fuge is full of. im hesitant to put it straight into my main tank because its a 'difficult to keep' fish so dont want to give it the possibility of being harassed by other fish (even though the compatibility chart shows it is compatible) they also need to get fed often - although dont compete for food as well as other fish. the way i see it is the less stress it has initially, the greater chance it has for overall survival. so, introducing to the refugium means i can watch it for a couple of weeks in solitary confinement!!! he is the more hardier species (from the Indian Ocean or Red Sea as indicated by a bright orange chest) and about 3" long. more info: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/angels/pygoplites/index.htm

he's (she?) in my fuge at the mo... granted not a QT but i dont have the facilities for it. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/aug2002/Fish.htm a difficult to keep fish but certainly a challenge im willing to take on :-?

hahahaaa, that is the very nature of this hobby! granted though, at least you are asking questions and taking on advice without getting shitty patience and plenty of research are the keys to maintaining a successful reef tank.

again: typically 20% per week/fortnight is a good approximate. stick to this for now - especially since you are a beginner - THEN once you get more experienced, work out what is best suited for your tank.

contradicting yourself here aren't you control? typically, 20% weekly/fortnightly is a good approximate for the average reef tank (or any tank for that matter) remember why you are doing a water change, to REMOVE the nutrients and ADD back the good stuff. there are many things that CANT be tested for so stick with a regular maintenance plan whether your system needs it or not (rather than waiting for things to go wrong then trying to fix it later)

Lfs, local fish shop

that's what i thought too. you cant cut toughened glass as far as im aware.

the greater the water volume = longer time for nutrients to build up. those with larger tanks can (typically) get away with leaving it longer between water changes. in terms of water chemistry, confuscious say "small changes in large tanks little problem, small changes in small tanks big problem"

lucky b!@#$tard!!!! that's what i want

lfs = business = money. need i say anymore?... except that there are a few good shops out there who are genuinely concerned in the consumers best interests. read: few

too much? no. 20% per week is good. most of us i dont believe even manage that. im 1,000 litres and manage 100-300 litres every 3-4 weeks TOPS. i have not done a water change in 5 weeks, bad i know. need to make it easier for myself...

so is becoming more and more evident after recent events

a fish introducing disease wiping out the others i believe

here's the return to the 1" sea-swirl all plumbed up and a top down view of the back right showing how close the water level is now to the top of the tank. also shows a shot of the loc-line plumbing from the closed loop at the bottom.

I use an Iwaki 55RLT (external) returns about 3,500lph - although that's at 10 feet of head. At 4 feet it does about 4,100lph. An Iwaki 70RLT would be ideal for you. I would guesstimate it would cost you approx $550 landed from Marine Depot. Very quiet pumps too.

I couldn't wait to swap the 3/4" Sea Swirl with the 1" Sea Swirl so stayed up late tonight and plumbed it all up. Three words, Holy f@#$!@# CRAP! I have a new found respect for water dynamics and loss of flow due to reduction in pipe sizes. OMG. The flow that the 1" sea swirl puts out compared to the 3/4" is phenomenal to say the least. I have noted the following: - The water level in the main tank has gone up by 5mm (only about 5mm from the top of the glass!) - The overflow is much louder and the water level is nearly at the top of the overflow comb :-? - The water level in the refugium has about 1mm clearance to the top of the glass and is so close to spilling over it isn't funny (tomorrows job cut the overflow lower) - The water level in the refugium overflow has risen by 2 inches (no durso, no need) - The water level in the 3rd section of my sump has dropped 3 inches!!! - There are more micro-bubbles in the main tank because of the rate of water entering the sump The biggest benefit is that the Iwaki return pump is running (sounds) SO much smoother... and of course the extra flow! Hmmmm,...... what to do now.... I could restrict flow.... yeah right. I tested blocking off half the overflow comb. The water level rises to within a couple mm's from the top. Far too risky to leave it in this state. I think the only feasible option is to cut the overflow lower in the main tank (as I'm going to have to do with the refugium anyway) Not happy about doing this. Damn it! Help?!

i tend to agree, if i did this all over again, i would drill til there were more holes than glass :-?

tis the one i've sold sorry gimme some frags and help me out then brian

I put some loc-line (adjustable/modular plumbing) that I got from MD on the closed loop outlets, the stuff is AWESOME! so easy to direct flow around the tank now. i'm trialing 'Y' adaptors and 'nozzle' adaptors on the ends at the moment. however so far i've found that no end adaptor and just 3 sections of loc-line pointing in the right direction appears to work best. will put some pic's up later. also calibrated my new pinpoint ph meter and tested pH levels, came out to 8.15, all good! next job is to replace existing 3/4" sea-swirl with the new 1" model and test. spent about $30 on plumbing - that was only about 4 pieces of 1" plumbing too and at trade pricing, crazy what they charge. hooking this up tomorrow, more photo's then too oh. and need to get rid of damn brown hair algae growing on top of plate rock :evil:

only diversity because importers wont import higher priced corals (take out ones that are just impossible or disallowed to be imported) because it would end up at the retail shops at a ridiculous price. importers selling direct = cheaper prices = diversity. IMO lfs will never die. online shopping will be for those accustomed to buying already. lfs will typically stock beginners gear or "you need this to start". nzl are not big enough for online frag trading like there is in the states - it can be done on this site.

http://www.oregonreef.com/ interestingly, his combined closed loop flow is over 113,000lph... insane. it truly is one amazing reef tank...

seaswirl is already sold to rubidor - he pm'd me ages ago about it so I gave him first option on it again - and he took it, sorry.

re: randomness, the squirt would be best only for the fact it has more outlets thus can produce cross-currents. sea-swirl is just 90 degrees side to side. however combine the both and you get very good randomness as they oscillate/alternate at different speeds so turbulence in the tank is always going to be varied.

they are completely separate devices. seaswirl is (specifically) designed for a return, sits on the edge of your tank and oscillates the flow by 90 degrees left/right. squirt is (specifically) designed for a closed loop, has a drum internally that rotates directing flow independantely out 4 different outlets. combining the two is possible, but you would need 4 sea-swirls that would be absolutely AWESOME for random water flow although bloody expensive!!! come over sometime when you're in auckland next and see my setup to get some ideas. Exactly!

i think you will need a second outlet at the bottom of the tank, you have too many holes into the tank and not enough out (unless the single hole is massive!) remember water being drawn OUT of the tank also creates water movement around it (not as much obviously as being pumped back in). your spray bars should have holes all the way around to disperse flow back, forward and upwards - im sure you knew that you just didnt add more red arrows it's important to design your aquascaping first and layout your spray bars around that. holes should not be too close to the edges of the tank. the reason i say dont put return back into squirt is simply because i like things modular in other words, i like to keep the closed loop and return completely separate, if your return pump fails, you can fix it independantly of the other (and still have good water flow). you can perform maintenance on your closed loop without effecting your return (and visa versa) i would think 4 holes at the top/back is over kill and i would seriously consider a (about 3/4") sea-swirl if i were you (in fact, i wouldnt consider it, i would have it as a must) you could consider putting 2 holes in the back instead of 4, have them at the back left and back centre then you can have your sea-swirl (or whatever you use for return) mounted at the back right. then, have the other 2 holes on the sides. i also assume you will continue using your seio's - if so, then use these at the front to point slightly down and towards the back of the closed loop flow to create some turbulence. this is how i've done mine - i've been testing water flow in the tank with this method and it works very well. also you are better off putting the overflow hole at the back glass rather than in the bottom. i would also consider a square shape overflow as a triangular one will be a mission to fit a durso standpipe. remember that (as joeblog recommended to me) that you want the OM squirt outlets to all go back into the tank at or near the top. the spray bars should be T'd off from the pump outlet separately (prior to the squirt) - or if you are really game have more outlets and a separate dedicated pump(s) for the spray bars similar to pies setup.