
GrahamC
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Everything posted by GrahamC
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My understanding was that nocturnal lizards are very efficient in synthesizing D3 from the sparse UVB exposure they get. So, they also will require UVB lighting.
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Yes, chloramines are used in some USA states because it does not outgas. If you want to know if it's safe for you just to stand water for a day or so, do this and then test the water for total chlorine ( includes chloramines ) with a test kit. Pool and possibly spa pool owners use them.
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There are a lot of stubs but this one looks easy enough to start with http://www.theaquariumwiki.com/Main_Page As it looks like a wikimedia site, you can use the API as well. I did come across another site the other day which had a lot more information ... still trying to back track to it.
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Probably a lot more than you can buy at the LFS!
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I was thinking of recording similar data, and just write it in JS so it would work on any webkit enabled device.
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See http://hamilton.co.nz/page/pageid/2145840006
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How long were they lasting in the LFS's tank? They should be spending a month in quarantine. Maybe ask the LFS to hold them for you for a few weeks first?
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I was thinking the same. Currently investigating web frameworks that work on a phone.
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The true pH of your tap water can be determined by taking a bucket of tap water and bubbling it overnight with your air stone. This will help drive off the C02 that is dissolved therein. It might just rise to the pH that you're complaining about. The other way to raise the pH is to add calcium by using a calcium based substrate or adding something. Fish food contains fish meal which includes calcium ( ground up fish bones ). Driftwood doesn't alter pH except by leaching tannins, which turn the water dark and acidic. But this also inhibits the growth of algae. Old driftwood won't do anything, but will provide a food for the BNs.
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Can't see why the driftwood should be the problem. What is the pH of your source water? And what are you trying to achieve, and with what? Do you really need the air pump? That would drive off the CO2.
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Depends on who you ask, and where you live. Chlorine when added to water containing ammonia and dissolved organic compounds can form chloramine which is not removed by standing. But in Hamilton, the water purification system was updated in 2006 so all the water which is sourced from the Waikato River is treated with activated charcoal because of the issues with cyanobacteria. This would be expected to remove most of the dissolved organic compounds, and so lessen the likelihood of chloramines forming. Some water agers also have EDTA to complex heavy metals. But again in Hamilton, as the water is coming from the river which I presume is still hosting fish, then there should not be any toxic levels of heavy metals unless they are added somehow. E.G. copper pipes aren't used much these days for water from the town supply to your taps ( mine are still copper though ).
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http://www.sunsun-china.com/en/product/class/?119.html
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I've read somewhere that the principle is your finest filter ( wool ) is first to catch as much debris as possible. This means that the secondary microbial filters don't get clogged with particles and keep as much surface area open as possible. So, even as organic matter accumulates in the filter wool, and decomposes, the secondary microbial filters detoxify that as well the ammonia etc generated in the tank.
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Clients will see it at the end of the hallway, but it's really for the office staff and me. I had thought about a corner aquarium, but then decided a long tank is better for fish to swim. Also considered a marine aquarium .. just cross the road and fill buckets with NSW, but I don't have the skills to run such a tank yet.
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I've come to inspect the build for the new office where there was a space left for a tank in a corner. The plumbing was done in wall by a plumbing company that has done this before. I didn't have any input. The facing wall is 1.2 m long, and on the right you can see the kitchen benchtop. At the bottom of the wall on the left is a drain that leads up over the floating ceiling to the laundry. I'll need a pump for this. Next to it is a line that run behind the wall to the left hand outlet above. The right hand outlet above is a cold water tap. The tank was supposed to sit flush against the facing wall, and extend past the wall into the room so that you can see right through the tank into the harbour. However, it looks like the plumber has missed putting in the other line for the filter. So, I've got one line that can return the water from a filter but no line to take water out of the tank .. either for a water change, or for filtration There isn't much space either for a deep tank, maybe 50 cm, and then I cut too much into the access to that room. Unless I shorten the tank. I laid floor tiles to 2m, but it looks difficult to walk in that way. So, perhaps max is 1.6 m ( the tiles are 40 cm long ). The lighting was supposed to go into a hood ... and I guess I'll need one to hide the top pipes. Do I need to ask the plumber to come back? Or should I put a return on the left side of the tank, and box it in? Any suggestions on stocking? As this is an office tank where no one might be there for a week or more, I was thinking I might just plant it, and only stock with fish when the office gets some regular use.
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20L bowl with 2 fantail goldfish sounds too crowded. Usual recommendation is 40L for the first goldfish, and then 20L for the second. What are the water parameters? Maybe the snail is affected by ammonia etc.
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How to tell when the NZD will become stronger?
GrahamC replied to Squirt's topic in The Off Topic Fishroom
You could try selling them on TM If it's only a few hundred, might as well hang on to them for the next trip to Sg. Brunei also accepts Sg $. -
I tried using lemons ( cut and rub ) on the hard water deposits in my shower glass, and that didn't work. Gave in and used a commercial cleaning agent. Still hard work though. But if you keep a tank with slightly acidic water, the calcium carbonate will just dissolve in time; at least where it is in contact with the water.
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Picture framers cut glass .. not sure if they're any cheaper though.
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Maybe you can get some sponsorship from the car manufacturer ... tough enough to roll down 100s of metres with only a few scratches! ( even with no roll bars ) The report in today's Dominion Post was a bit scarier .. it said your head had to be supported to prevent you from drowning!
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Doesn't seem to be too bad from this afternoon's trial. This is using Pam's potting mix ( the only potting mix I could find that didn't say it had added fertilizers ), and some fine pumice from Bunnings. There's a little bit of floating material and some pumice dust as I didn't bother to rinse it. Didn't have any plants so will just let it sit for a couple of weeks. I put it against the window to get maximum sunlight, but wife objected to my using absent child's dresser like this .. so it's back to the living room!
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Hawke's Bay Aquarium Society - 21 March Meeting
GrahamC replied to Zev's topic in FNZAS & Afflilated Clubs
Weren't you the person that lost their live culture of worms? I take it the National Aquarium isn't charging their $21 entry fee -
I gather that if you can bag the fish, it's safer for them ... less sloshing around as in a bucket. I also have a battery (9V) powered air pump that I keep in case I need to transport fish some distance, or, if there's a power failure at home.
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I think there are easier ways to get published! Quite miraculous that you survived. Rental cars tend to turn over their stock regularly so you must have got a late model with more safety features like side intrusion bars, and side air bags?
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More suggestions: If you're going to place the tank on polystyrene foam, you could also use that to transport the tank. If you're moving the tank on a hot day, have buckets of dechlorinated water outside in the sun ready so there's less to heat up using a heater or kettle. If you can get the tank back to the same temperature as the water in the bins, you won't have to acclimatize the fish to any temperature changes. If you've got lots of strong people to help, it's better to move the tank with the gravel inside with some water to keep it moist. That way you're less likely to damage the biological filter in the gravel. Move the plants in the containers with the fish. If the bins are translucent, cover the waste bins with blankets so that they are dark inside. When adding water back into the tank, use siphons so that you don't disturb the crud too much.