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alexyay

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Everything posted by alexyay

  1. Redwoods had them in maybe... 1 year ago? It was when they started bringing in A macmasteri again, but I'm not sure whether they've continued bringing in the Kribs. I haven't seen A hongsloi in (at least, since I started paying attention to Apistos). I am not sure whether true A borellii are in as most have been Apistogramma sp. 'Steel Blue' - I don't think anyone's managed to breed the recent lot that came in as A borelli or the recent lot of A bitaneiata (but am keen if you find some as I'd love a pair). Unfortunately I lost my A trifasciata girl recently and haven't had any breeding success with the A macmasteri lately.
  2. Mine have just started going into my spam folder for some reason so it might be worth checking there
  3. I figure my fish either eat them or out-compete them - if I remove the fish from a tank, I usually start seeing zooplankton (?) like ostracods, copepods, mites, stylaria/other annelids and flatworms some time after (assuming I keep feeding the tank or let plants/etc decompose)
  4. A video of their movement might help, but I would assume they are Ostracods and are just free fish food
  5. We could really do with some more attendees - Check it out here - https://www.facebook.com/events/1766240243515732/ - we'd be keen on running a small People's Choice competition with spot prizes but can only do so with more people attending! Hey there Auckland Fishkeepers! Saturday, September the 24th Yup, that’s right, September the 24th – book it in, we’re doing another tank crawl! It’s time to clean those tanks (and ahem, in my case, clean the house a bit) and visit other local fishkeepers for some conversation, fish/plant/equipment swaps and, of course, look at pretty tanks. Our current plan is to spend the first half of the day visiting houses, and then the second half to visit Local Fish Stores (LFSs) – we expect this to take most of the day, starting around 10am (this may change depending on how many people we have to visit). Opening your house up to the weirdos is completely voluntary, but it’s definitely welcomed. Want to offer your place to visit? Please email [email protected] (or let an AFA Executive know - on Facebook or via email) with your address and what time(s) you (and your fish) are available. Want to participate? This is currently open to AFA Financial Members, however non-members are welcome to participate for $5 (or sign-up on the day if you wish ). Please either let us know via Email, or join our Facebook event here (https://www.facebook.com/events/1766240243515732/) Want to suggest a store to visit? At the moment, where we visit may depend on where abouts we’re going, but feel free to suggest a favourite store that you’d like to introduce others to! We’re also always looking out for event suggestions, special speakers, or other fun activities available in (or around) Auckland – whether they be fish related or otherwise. Thanks heaps, we hope to see you soon! Alex Fleming / Secretary of AFA
  6. I'm after Apistogramma bitaeniata and Apistogramma borellii that have recently been imported (definitely would prefer pics of the borellii before buying), fish need to be healthy - after confirmed female and male pairs of both, unfortunately LFS isn't an option at this current point in time. Preferably pickup in Auckland but may consider shipping depending on prices
  7. I haven't had the opportunity to keep Shellies yet, but they are SUPER cute - good luck with them
  8. I'm so sorry I missed this post! Levamisole and Praziquantel are both completely safe for scaleless fishes, and can be used in conjunction. You want Levamisole for Callamanus, but Praziquantel can be handy to use at the same time. With Levamisole, it might take up to (or more than) 4 weeks with several doses (once every 3-5 days), and you'll want to siphon the substrate as much as possible. Callamanus are really tricky to get rid of, and so they can (unfortunately) require a fair bit of vigilance to treat.
  9. alexyay

    Fish food

    I personally just made a batch (except the darn stuff floats, when it's mostly intended for the bottom dwellers lol) - I used: - Prawn - Broccoli - Kumura - Pumpkin - Zucchini - Cucumber (because I accidentally left it too long and it was soft, so I decided to give it to the fish instead of eating it myself lol) - Carrot - Garlic I let everything simmer for a while (excluding the prawns), then slowly added it to a blender. Then I put it back on the stove and stirred in some gelatine (unfortunately I didn't put enough in this time), and set it in a bunch of ice cube trays.
  10. I'd lean towards "you can't really do anything about it", sorry Either Viral, or tumours/cysts. Do they ever disappear, or "burst"? If you feel you can apply a medication (eg Wunder Tonic, which should be fine) directly to it without a huge amount of stress, it's always worth a shot. But unfortunately I'd vote virus (whether it be Lymphocystis or another - not really worth getting an exact diagnosis as there's nothing you can really do about it anyway). I personally don't usually isolate fish with viruses as they're always kinda present, but it's worth noting that fish are more likely to become infected if they pick at it and when it eventually passes away (as is inevitable with any living creature lol), you'll want to remove it asap as other fish will definitely have a nibble. Edit: I wouldn't suggest doing it by yourself, but if a vet wants to help you anesthetize the fish and get a small sample, it should be fairly easy to diagnose under a microscope (the cells will look huge - below is a virus from one of my fish, not a great picture sorry). If it passes and you know someone with a microscope, they won't degenerate (ime) when frozen, so you can, err, keep some in a freezer for future diagnosis).
  11. What are you dosing? If they are visible, they are likely to be Callamanus nematodes, which need Levamisole as treatment. Unfortunately Callamanus can take a couple of months of treatment, as they are very good at spreading and can be tricky to kill.
  12. Thanks heaps guys I've crossed off confirmed species so far and have put Rice Fish in red as it looks like MPI see them as invasive/problematic enough to go after them.
  13. I've finally finished the Breeding Scheme Species Corrections List which involved updating all of the binomial and common names of species that have previously been bred in New Zealand. Due to the changes in import regulations/accuracy, there are many names on this list that are not currently on our Import List and are likely not present in New Zealand. Can I please have confirmations as to whether any of the below species are currently or were recently (within the past year) available in New Zealand (or if they're on the Import List and I made a mistake!) (Please note that the common names can be used for several species, so it's worth checking the binomial name to see if it's the same fish) Laetacara dorsigera / Laetacara dorsigera Cichlasoma portalegrense / Cichlasoma portalegrense Aphyocharax anisitsi / Aphyocharax anisitsi Aphyosemion bualanum ntui / Aphyosemion bualanum ntui Aphyosemion calliurum / Aphyosemion calliurum Aphyosemion cinnamomeum / Aphyosemion cinnamomeum Aphyosemion cognatum / Aphyosemion cognatum Fundulopanchax marmoratus / Fundulopanchax marmoratus Fundulopanchax puerzli / Fundulopanchax puerzli Fundulopanchax scheeli / Fundulopanchax scheeli Aphyosemion splendopleure / Aphyosemion splendopleure Astyanax abramis / Astyanax abramis Callichthys callichthys / Armoured Catfish Austrolebias affinis / Suzenna's Pearlfish Austrolebias alexandri / Alexander's Pearlfish Austrolebias bellottii / Argentine Pearlfish Simpsonichthys bokermanni / Bokermann's Pearlfish Leptolebias minimus / Barredtail Pearlfish Austrolebias nigripinnis / Argentine Pearlfish Nematolebias whitei / White's Pearlfish Epiplatys chaperi / Red Throated Panchax Epiplatys dageti / Red-Chinned Panchax Epiplatys grahami / Graham's Panchax Epiplatys macrostigma / Macrostigma Epiplatys sexfasciatus / Six Barred Panchax Hemichromis elongatus / Five Spot Cichlid Hemichromis lifalili / Blood Red Jewel Cichlid Nothobranchius kirki / Kirk's Killi Nothobranchius melanospilus / Blackspotted Notho Nothobranchius kafuensis / Kayuni State Farm Oryzias latipes / Rice Fish Pachypanchax playfairii / Golden Panchax Phalloceros caudimaculatus / Leopard Fish Pterolebias longipinnis / Peruvian Longfin Killi Aphyolebias peruensis / Peruvian Longfin Killi Rivulus hartii / Hart's Giant Rivulus Anablepsoides holmiae / Holmiae Rivulus roloffi / Roloff's Rivulus Aphyosemion occidentalis / Golden Pheasant Tilapia mariae / Tiger Cichlid Oreochromis mossambicus / Mozambique Mouthbrooder Aphyosemion ahli / Ahl's Lyretail Rhodeus ocellatus / Bitterling Gymnocorymbus thayeri / Straight Finned Black Tetra Amphilophus labiatus / Red Devil Nothobranchius vosseleri / Pangani Notho Cichlasoma urophthalmus / Mayan Cichlid Aulonocara hansbaenschi / Red Shouldered Peacock Pseudotropheus demasoni / Demasoni Cichlid (I'm assuming this species is present) Apistogramma sp. 'Nanay (Melgar)' / Apistogramma Melgar Neolamprologus pulcher / Daffodil Cichlid Pseudotropheus cyaneorhabdos / Maingano Cichlid Xiphophorus clemenciae / Yellow Swordtail Otopharynx lithobates / Sulphur Crested Cichlid (better to assume it's present than not) Hemiodontichthys acipenserinus / Knob Nosed Whiptail Catfish (I wish!) Nothobranchius steinforti / Nothobranchius Steinforti Protomelas taeniolatus / Red Empress Protomelas sp. 'Steveni Taiwan' / Taiwan Reef Cichlid Iodotropheus sprengerae / Rusty Cichlid (I'm assuming this species is present) Thanks in advance
  14. Hi there I have a group of Samurai Gourami in our office tank (along with a group of L140 at home) and am always happy to add to that group if you struggle to find homes for them
  15. alexyay

    Photography

    In all honesty, lighting really is key when it comes to getting photos of fish. If you can't provide the adequate lighting, a compact may be a better option than a DSLR as they're good at handling dark situations + high shutter speeds. Admittedly I know next to nothing about compacts so can't really provide much help in what camera to buy, sorry!
  16. Recent articles around the issue of transporting a goldfish on planes via Jet Star can make it sound as though Air New Zealand allows for fish to be transported as carry-on luggage (as many people have previously traveled with fish this way). Unfortunately this is not the case & I'd just like to clear a few things up (as this question comes up frequently): Fish have previously been transported via carry-on however this may have been "allowed" for several possible reasons: - The terminal lacked an X-Ray procedure and the fish went through unnoticed. - The terminal has an X-Ray procedure but through negligence/packaging/etc (admittedly I'm not 100% sure how each item shows up) the fish was missed. - The staff are unaware of the correct transport procedure (this is very common - it seems people frequently get different answers depending on who asked the question). - The staff are aware of the correct transport procedure but let it slip through (I cannot make this accusation obviously, just listing possible situations) Typically, those who have asked before attempting to take fish on planes have been told it is not allowed. While someone may say it is allowed when calling via phone, you may be told on the day that it is not allowed. I would strongly suggest getting any answers in writing if you wish to gain a correct answer. In regards to the recent situation, below is an email from Air NZ (to myself): The fish was not allowed as carry-on luggage, and was sent on a separate flight via Cargo. According to the link, Air NZ allows cats, some dogs and small caged birds to travel as checked in baggage on all domestic services. Any other kind of pet or livestock must travel as Cargo. Cargo info can be found here and prices can be found here (quoted below) Unfortunately, this is not a particularly cheap service - making driving or shipping via Courier a more economical option in most cases. I'm writing this so that there can hopefully be an official answer for when this question comes up. People still, at times, have gotten away with transporting fish as carry-on luggage, however this is at your own risk, the risk of your fish and the risk of other's time (eg. your fish may be destroyed, you may incur extra costs, and as per the recent issue there may be delays for other passengers). I would personally strongly recommend not attempting to travel with fish via flight, especially as extra costs/destruction of fish has become more and more frequent. I hope this helps to clear some things up for future reference in regards to transporting fish via aircraft. It's truly upsetting seeing people have their beloved fish destroyed because there are so many inconsistencies in answers from others or from Air NZ themselves. Wishing all future fishies quick and safe travels
  17. Praziquantel is usually my go-to as a general dewormer and is available from Hollywood Fish Farm - sometimes it's worth combining with Levamisole (also available from the same store) for use against a larger "spectrum" of internal parasites (Levamisole is specifically known for use against Callamanus nematodes). Unfortunately more serious infections can require Metronidazole which involves a vet visit & is more difficult to obtain.
  18. +1 for the first and third being Lionheads Unfortunately I don't know about the second, sorry!
  19. I believe they get from 5-8cm, so they do get a fair bit bigger than eg Neon Tetras (I have a bunch in with my Black Neons & they're a wee bit bigger). They do get a bit nippy towards longfin fish but are less nippy in bigger groups. I found them easy to breed - it was a total accident I had foam dividers in my tank that had about a 5mm (max) gap underneath due to the glass bracing at the bottom - so the eggs fell under there and they seemed to grow up fine with the parents - they were very fast growing fry. Was pretty strange seeing Penguin Tetra fry 4 bays over because they had been swimming under all of the gaps
  20. As Spoon has said, I believe PAR is more important than Lumens. Lumens are what the human eye can see, whereas PAR is more relevant to plants. I personally look at PAR, Wavelengths and Wattage (to an extent) when looking for LED lights
  21. Not in Whangarei but I'm sorry to hear about your spinal injury
  22. If you can't find a home (hopefully you can!) it might be worth contacting MTI (Mahurangi Technical Institute)? I'm not sure whether they can help but as they deal with natives they might have some ideas as to where they could possibly go. (Sorry for not taking up your offer re photography - things got even busier and I accidentally smashed the tank, so it needs repairing before I go on any photo ventures )
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