Pegasus

Hi Brendan, All the Club Info (and much more) is available by clicking on the big FNZAS logo at the head of the page. http://www.fnzas.org.nz/clubs.0.html Bill.

Hi Gir... welcome to the NZ Fishroom. Sounds like you might be upgrading to a bigger tank. Just wondering who looked after your fish prior to you starting High School. You said: Not really the sort of thing to laugh about, as we take our fishkeeping VERY seriously here at the Fishroom, but hopefully there is a mis-understanding, and someone was caring for your fish during your busy time. Having said that, we at the Fishroom will do all we can to help you. A good start would be to read all the posts on setting up a new tank, along with the types of fish that are compatable with each other, plus the limitations of your new tank and how many fish it can safely hold. Just dumping the whole contents of the old tank into the new tank is not to be considered, unless you have no other option. Ideally (if possible).. you should set the new tank up and use "some" of the water from the old tank, plus a few handsfull of the gravel, and an old filter that has been running in an established tank for some time. Your undergravel filter can't do this, but you can use most other types, including a dirty old sponge filter. What this does is... it starts the bacteria cycle working that is needed to keep your water in good condition. There's lots of info on this here in these pages, so you will need to do some reading. If you try to keep your related problems together in one thread, then they are easier to follow Good to have you here, and hope you enjoy your visits. Bill.

Hi there Jason, Welcome to the NZ Fishroom and hope you enjoy your visits. Bill.

http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?t=5010 Bill.

You can take the "actual" sharp edge off with a piece of sandstone rock, but you won't get a polished finish... even using a sanding belt. Consider the situation before you splash out. Will the tank have a surround..? If so, then the edges won't show. You could also use the 12mm corner moulding in wood or plastic, as this gives a real nice finish, or if you want to be a bit flash... then polished or anodised aluminium corner moulding would look real neat. HTH Bill.

This may be of interest to those contemplating adding a sump. Quote from Chris (one of our members on another site) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 76331&rd=1 http://search.ebay.com.au/_W0QQgotopage ... propertyZ1 Pics of Drilling the tank... http://www.geocities.com/hxkingswood/ho ... 5478262930 Bill.

Sounds to me like your Danios spawned and the others were getting hyperactive over the free meal they were getting Bill.

Please Note... 240volt power is VERY dangerous, and deadly if treated in the incorrect manner. Due to the above and the experiments undertaken by Ira, I would like to publicly make it known that I accept no responsibility whatsoever for any loss or damage caused by the above. Take some advice Ira... Seek the help of a professional. Bill. (VERY concerned member)

I do... and the ballasts were put on test prior to being sent, but on an existing fitting, so the holders were not tested... but... The four rectangular white fittings were brand new... never used from Mico Wakefield.. IE: Docket # 0N061763 PRD Code. 5046002100 Balcom PT1 Tombstone Lampholder $4:00 ea. Qty 4 The tube holding clips (from the same place) cost two fifty apeice also.. you got eight. Other doubles were from an existing fitting that was stored in my (then proposed) fish room, and was working when put into storage. They are easy pull apart fittings, and possibly just need a clean as the bi-pin holders are well known for giving bad contact. The ballasts were never designed to run "three" tubes, but the 58's will run two 30watt with the correct wiring. The starters you recieved were also brand new straight from the box, of which there are still four new ones remaining... so I mention this so that you know the starters are not at fault. Bill.

Hi Vanquish.. Welcome to the forums Around 25-30mm is the usual, and some people attach a strip across the top to hide the water line. Bill. BTW: Appears you had no replies to your first post, as it was in the middle of another discussion... No probs http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewto ... ght=#52246 Start a new thread or just add to this one. Hope you enjoy your visits Bill.

Was just staring at the keyboard and about to ask the same question Caryl Real sorry to hear about your loss Bilbo. As Caryl points out... an uneven surface would be the most likely suspect, but other causes are possibly a weakness in the seal at that point. The thing to find out is... Did it run from the bottom up... or did it run from part way up the front glass in a downward run...? Many tankmakers seal the base by working from the corners and out to the centre... then start at the other corner and do the same. Often this leaves a slight "overlapped" area in the middle that looks ok... but in fact has a poor seal... unless the sealant is phyically forced into the whole length. This tiny area can become a weak point when the tank is full. Even a very minute chip in the base of the glass "prior" to it being assembled can give you the type of break you describe. Examine the seal VERY CAREFULLY at the point you think the run started. If it is DARK or slightly dark in that area, it is a sign of a bad seal, as it will have allowed water to seap under the seal. Also look UNDER the edge of the glass a the same point to see if you can spot any slight chip that may have started the run. A break from the top usually indicates either a slight chip.. or an unsupported top edge that has been allowed to flex. A base glass breaking usually indicated an uneven base, which has allowed the base to twist,... and end panes breaking usually occur from all of the above as the glass is being stressed from the front and rear edges, in a sort of twisting action. Of course unsuitable thickness of glass will always be a major factor in breakages, but if you bought the tank from a reliable supplier or had it custom made, I would approach them and explain the situation, provided you set the tank up perfectly level and on the correct styrene base pad. Not much consolation for your loss, but hopefully it won't happen a second time. Regards, Bill.

Brian said: Far from it Brian... I think you explained the situation very well Hi Lord of the rings (LOTR) Welcome to the mysteries of fishkeeping LOTR. You also ask: Goldies are pretty cute in most cases, and a good starting point for most people. The two footer you have would be fine for a couple of three to four inch (75-100mm) goldfish... or even perhaps three if you had some filtration and air supply. Problem here is that they grow pretty quick, and will soon be pushed for space if you overstock. Goldfish (compared to tropical fish).. are pretty messy.. in other words, they produce more waste.. are messier eaters.. and tend to rip most plants to bits if they get a bit hungry or bored. The one eyed fish you have seen may be fine... as many fish live long lives with only one eye, but they are at a disadvantage when other fish are around, both from a security point of view, and being first at the meal table If the eye loss was recent, it may also become infected later, which could cause you and your family a lot of grief if you become attached to it... so you have to be prepared to accept this... as you will possibly have fish losses down the line at some stage. Much of what you ask can be found among these pages, but there's lots of help here if you have probs. Think hard before you decide... do lots of reading and question asking in the right places, and when you have all the answers.. ask more questions All the best.

CarrieJ asked: Reason for the syringe is so that you can draw back on the plunger and drain the fluid. It's really a four handed job, so you need help in this. Please note... I take no responsibility in any respect if you attempt this method.... (practice on a dead sprat or something) BTW: Checked with the missus... it was around '62.. '63... not the seventies. MUST be getting old Hey Jo1 Reminds me of that episode of "All Creatures Great And Small".. with James Herriot and the cow with bloat where they stuck a knife into the belly of the cow to release the gas.. but the old farmer decided at that moment to light up his pipe, and the explosion shook the whole cowshed :) Bill.

Hi there Modern Angl Hope you find lots of interest here. Bill.

Hi Lyn,.. great to have you here and welcome to our ever growing group. You said... If you have kept your fish alive and well for six months already.. then it seems you are on the right track Lots of other members from over the bridge, and if you are into joining a local club, then Kim would be the one to talk to... and if you want to meet a few members, then the chat room gets pretty active on an evening around 9pm. The guys will be along to say hello very shortly Good selection of fish you have BTW Bill.

Not seen a fish with Dropsy for a very long time... but back (who knows when.. '70s I think).. I used to show fish and would do the curcuits every week to the various shows. I had a huge female Platy that I took along with several other species, (Oscars.. Angels.. etc..) and this old girl had served me well and given us hundreds of fry, plus attained a few high awards at the shows. Anyway... she developed Dropsy, and at that time there were few guaranteed cures for anything, so I sought advice from my professor friend at the local university who was in the animal research division. He was a highly respected fishkeeper and breeder and said it was caused by fluid building up in the fish. He suggested drawing the fluid off with a hypodermic syringe. The thought of this turned my stomach.. but after a demo or two in the lab I decided to give it a go to save the old girl, who by this time was looking like a Puffer more than a Platy. The routine was to insert the needle 3 to 5mm forward of the vent and allow it to penetrate around 4mm at an angle in line with the mouth. I did this by holding the fish in a soaking wet towel. Sure enough... out came the fluid and the fish suddenly became deflated. On placing it in the tank it did a few quick sumersaults (as my heart almost stopped).. but then swam off as though nothing had happened. Several weeks passed and the fish again became inflated.. so I repeated the treatment... and again every few weeks over the following year or so.. during which time she dropped fry on a regular basis. I retired her from the shows and she lived to a ripe old age. Not suggesting you try this... but Bill.

I usually don't feed the Micro till around a week to ten days after free swimming. Bill.

Ballistic said: Yup... quite normal. They will go from that stage to taking little hops around the tank, then they will eventually become free swimming. It's important not to feed them until they have fully consumed their egg sac. My preferred first food is Newly Hatched Brine Shrimp, but they will manage on Liquifry for Egglayers. Bill.

Hi Paul, Great to have you join us, and by the sound of things you already have found lots of interest here One thing we all learn about tanks is that they are "never" big enough to suit all our needs, as the day always arrives when you want to add "just one more" fish.. but find your tank is already stretched to its limits Bigger is certainly easier to maintain, and cost for cost for running there is very little difference in the small and large tanks. Look at the available space you have and plan around that... but take your time and don't rush things, as your decision could be stuck there for quite a number of years he he. Lots of members in the Chat Room on an evening if you get the time. All the best.. look forward to your posts,

Hi Ballastic, The best anti-fungal cure you can possibly get are the parents.. as they will do all that is needed once they get the hang of things. On top of this... you are missing the best part of the whole miracle that is there... right in your tank.. if you give the guys a chance that is Ok... we do get pairs that just won't care for the eggs or fry.. but invariably this is not the fault of the fish... but that of the owner, that has either the wrong conditions.. or is over disturbing the fish at the critical times. Give them a chance man... and dedicate the tank to them if you want the fry... it's well worth the effort I use 40mm plastic water piping propped in the corner for my pairs to spawn on, and if the need arises it can easily be removed for hatching the eggs seperately. Dosing a whole tank with Methelene Blue is a "very" last resprt, and for your present situation, a gallon jar or reasonable sized container floating in the tank will do the trick. On the odd occasions that I have had to intervene with the eggs I have used the plastic "vege" box out of the fridge he he. As someone poiinted out.. at least if you get "one" wriggler, you will know you have a pair, as often two females will go through all the motions without results. Hope it works out, Bill.

Sorry Ira, I thought you were clued up with the wiring. The circuit looks ok and is per the lable on the ballast. Yes.. the Brown is the "positive".. or phase wire... the Blue is "negative".. or neutral. It would still work if they were reversed, but the positive and negative should always be on their correct terminals in "any" circuit. The green and yellow striped wire on your cable is the earth... and can be connected directly to the casing of the ballast. If you are fitting a switch at all... then fit it between point "A" on your drawing and the first black dot (connection). HTH. Bill.

Hi Bubblygrl, Hope you enjoy the site... and the chat room

Sure hope you got permission to use the photos from Acquario 2000 Shae...?

:) Great stuff Wazza.. glad you found a piece of suitable pipe.. the rest is a piece of cake.. Bill. (Did you hear him croak...?)

If you want a dark substrate.. then go to Firths on Tamiki Drive. Look among their gravels and such and you will find all the dark gravels you want. I use "Number six".. which is around 3mm diam and after several years of use have found no probs. Costs $32 bux a ton up here, but a sackful should cost you very little. Bill.