Pegasus

Posting Pics On The Fishroom Forums A frequently asked question, and info can be found here.... viewtopic.php?t=2406 http://www.fnzas.org.nz/forum-images.0.html Also appears that some members use Imageshack http://www.imageshack.us which also gives you the tags you need to use. Plus lots of other info here... http://www.fnzas.org.nz/ Bill (Pegasus)

Hi Janet, You asked: http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?t=2406 http://www.fnzas.org.nz/forum-images.0.html Bill.

Hi Nick, Great to see a few more from Oz.. Hope you find lottsa interest here Bill.

LB said: I followed the origin of the above pics, and although the above ones might seem beyond belief, there are some fantastic guppies and other fish available on that site. http://www.aquabid.com/cgi-bin/auction/ ... ?fwguppies Bill.

Philz said: I can't understand why you mention this... Am I a suspect to the cause of your problem... ? White spot cannot survive without a host for 48hrs.. and the fore-mentioned tank/s (like many others) had been empty for the past three months... hence the reason for you getting them.... although they may have had a few watermarks and dust on them... but certainly not a consideration in your present dilemma. .. was the correct thing to do... but even if the water was the same condition, the fish could have become infected through stress... netting... chills... or a number of other things.. and even the transfer of the water could have lowered the temp several degrees. Bill.

I use brazing rods from the local engineer.. few bucks apiece. You can join them easily with a bit of airline

Nylon fly screen mesh works well Steve. Just make a simple wire frame and spring it into position. Bill.

I've never been in the place, but it is so saddening to hear of such a loss of such fish that obviously must have been a great icon for the shop. Were they all in one tank, as it sounds like more than just natural causes...? Bill.

Hi Polgara, You say: How small is small... what size is the tank? What size were the fish, and how many were in at the same time..? Fish remaining at the surface suggests something is definitely wrong with the water conditions, either heat, (too much) .. lack of disolved oxygen, or perhaps high ammonia or other levels, although as Caryl points out, these would be unlikely to cause the blackness. Bill.

Fish Profiles…. Convict Cichlid Archocentrus (Cichlasoma) nigrofasciatus Probably the most common fish that is kept by early breeders of Cichlids, mainly because of its striking patterns and its ease of breeding. These tough little guys can produce literally thousands of fry per year, and often the problem is stopping them breeding, or disposing of the young, as due to their ease of breeding demand and prices are low. Conditions. They originate from Central America and with thrive happily in neutral water (ph7.0) or a couple of points either side, and temperatures of 22-26C (being adequate. These are aggressive type fish (at times), and are unsuitable as a community fish and are best kept with species that are larger and able to fend for themselves. Tank Setup. The standard two footer will house a pair quite comfortably, and they prefer places they can hide, along with some form of cave in which to breed, but they will use anywhere once they get into breeding condition and may possibly move gravel and small rocks in order to find a suitable place, and for this reason plants would need to be firmly anchored, along with any rock structures. Feeding. These fish are omnivorous and require both a meaty diet plus a vegetable type one. They will eat most live foods, including young fish, and almost anything that will fit in their mouths is fair game. Beef heart, worms, blanched lettuce and prepared foods all make up a good menu, along with a variety of flake and freeze dried foods. Sexing. Sexing is not difficult as the males are the larger sex, but contain less brilliant coloration. The males also develop longer and more pointed dorsal and anal fins with age. Also the females of the species are more likely to display orange patterns on their bellies and dorsal fins. I found this recently on a site http://www.aquahobby.com/gallery/e_convict.php and found it to be an excellent description of these fish. Other info on the breeding sequence can be found here… http://www.aquariumfish.net/information ... fish_2.htm Bill Add A Fish Profile To The Site. Keep Them In The Relevant Section.. Cichlids... Livebearers... Killies.. Etc

Good job Ball, and the tank looks great. A bit nerve-racking when you first fill them up wondering if you missed a spot and you might get a leak, but well worth the effort once it's all up and running So you'll be ready to build that six footer next he he. Bill.

This of course depends on the circumstances.. however... but in an every day tank water changers are not good..... Tell this to the Discus keepers It depends on the ambient temperature of the air, as it could be freezing rain, or warm enough for a good shower No prob with the cold water trickle method. Medicating fish on arrival is a futile excesize if you don't know what you are medicating for.. so why medicate perfectly healthy fish.. or are you saying that your supplies of fish may be suspect in some way, and you medicate in preference to good quarantine practices..? Blame your supplier. I have previously had fish delivered to my LFS that were sitting at the airport in a snow blizzard for almost two days, but still arrived in good condition.. but this was back in the 70's.. so perhaps transport methods have changed Sorry guys... the topic "was" White Spot. (Bill cuts the cable on his keyboard) (Then quickly re-joins it to ask a question..) Can I ask you Kim, that when you sell fish do you use the water from the display tanks... or from a seperate supply...? Bill.

Sorry Kim... but still not convinced. Your explanation has no roots, and... a major rule with water changes is to have the conditions and temperature as near as possible to the water that was removed. Many of the meds used today "could" be effected by light, I have no idea, as I don't use meds and prefer natural methods, but your reference to... was possibly in the days when Methelene Blue was the main form of med for WS erradication, and that "certainly" was effected by light. The point being, that it is a proven fact that the siphoning of the gravel (and hence water removal.. including Tetrahymina's and Tomites) once the cysts have dropped from the infected fish, goes a long way to preventing the re-infection due to a mass explosion of Tetrahymina... which are the free swimmers that will immediately search out a new host.

Hi Calvin, All you need to know is right here.. http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?t=2406 http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?t=3880

Brilliant link Layton, and "definitely" one that should be read by all users. Bill.

Kim said: This seems to contradict all the teachings about removing as many off the Tetrahymina (free swimmers).. and the Tomites, which at the point of multiplying. Can you clarify Kim...? Bill.

Great stuff Billany... It's even more exciting if you happen to catch the moment they are dropping from the mother. There's a whole lot more in the world of fish with some species building nests of bubbles, others digging pits, while others hatch the eggs in their mouths, plus heaps more, so the amazement never stops

Hi Peter,... Welcome to the NZ Fishroom. Sounds like you have had a bit of success already with the breeding, and you can never have too many tanks Clubs... If you click on the Twin Fishes at the top of the screen it will take you to another part of the site where you will find a full list of the NZ Clubs. HTH

Hi Billaney,... welcome to the NZ Fishroom. I think people believe that Mollies are "more" subseptical to White Spot because (being black in most cases).. the white spots tend to show up so easily, but the old rules apply... "Prevention is better than cure"... so the less you stress your fish and try to maintain the best conditions that they require, the better. Take things slowly, and ask all the questions you need, plus read up on your fish before you get them.

Hi Critter_guy, Awesome is the word Great site, great members, and heaps of interest. Hope you enjoy your visits and look forward to reading about your fish

Alan asked: I'm on tank/roof water, and the Gouramies thrive and breed in it no sweat. Bill.

A simple way to send a small amount of Micro Worm is in an old film container.. (available for free from any chemist) Just leave a space in the top for air and you have the perfect sealed container. Bill.

The more space the better Jammos, and as deep as you can for good fin development. Undergravel is fine if you want, even though the bare tanks are easier to clean. Great to hear you have some growing fry Bill

This rings a bell Shae.. Wonder if you remember the mention of this elsewhere Bill.

Your idea has set me thinking Neopole, but I want to completely illiminate any rise in heat, so I am thinking around these lines... We are on tank water here, and the main tank holding 5000 gallons is 8 foot underground, and the temp of the water summer or winter is a constant 13 to 15C. My intention is to do a similar thing as Neopole, but use the cold water in the main tank. I will coil 100mtrs of 15mm pipe in the 5000gall tank and feed it into the tanks via a pump. The pipe of course will be fed with salt water from the fishtank, and will at no time come into contact with the main water system. It will be on a flow in flow out cycling system, so that the salt water passes through the cold water inside the 100mtr pipe and is returned to the salt water tank, which could be like a mini rise and fall of the tide. A timer will be set to control this happening, which will depend on the temp, or I could even set up a thermostat system that will do it automatically. The only exposed piping will be a short length where it enters the house, and the rest will be buried underground. Ira said: This could be something to think about Ira, as I believe you are on tank water also. Thanks for the inspiration Neopole