Caryl

I don't have a reference Luke sorry. The only reason I think that Kyle is that it is what I was told a number of years ago. They were supposedly brought into NZ in one lot and subsequently bred by Jan Payne who then gave them away to many other hobbyists over the years. It may or may not be so. I suspect they are all very similar anyway and probably all hybrids. Also possible it is the same fish with a name change over the years. The Baensch Atlas says identifiying Ancistrus species without detailed morphological studies is very difficult. Photograph the fish twice then call it both sp Ancistrus dolichopterus Baensch Atlas 3 ISBN 1-56465-185-1 page 365 Ancistrus temminckii Baensch Atlas 3 ISBN 1-56465-185-1 page 366

I use the black U shaped rubber you get from places like Para Rubber (and Mitre 10 etc I think). It comes in various thicknesses just slots over the top edge.

Why are you talking about wild daphnia? Most of us will culture our daphnia like those who culture their brine shrimps. I do not know of any fish keeper who would gather their daphnia from a muddy puddle! Both daphnia and brine shrimp are good for young fry to eat so forget calorie, fat and whatever content. It is VARIETY which is as important. Give them both and your babies will grow quickly and well. By the way, I am not sure I would refer to anyone on this site as an "expert". We are all hobbyists, some with more knowledge in some areas than others, trying to help fellow hobbyists.

I think you will find most bristlenoses in NZ are Ancistrus lineolatus

It will do Debs. Keep an eye on the fish as oxygen levels will drop. If you see them at the surface a lot, increase aeration. (Green water is green water, not green tank Shae.)

Probably algae. Any plants in the tank? A result of phosphates building up most likely and possibly more light on the tank as summer approaches. Add more plants, reduce feeding, keep up water changes.

Have a look here - awe inspiring! http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2005.cgi

I was answering alanmin

Maf said you couldn't import them, you can breed them.

They were legal imports until a few years ago. You can't import them now but you are allowed to breed them. No more imports means it is important we keep the species going or we will lose it.

Fins crossed for a successful rearing.

Your fish have a busy one obviously :lol: (social life that is)

I only print the information I am given. Go after Kevin's head MA, not mine Though come to think of it, it would mean I wouldn't have to do any more wouldn't it? Bring on the guillotine!!! :lol:

Yes simfish, join a club or get a subscription from me, although it is $21.80 for 12 months. If you wish to subscribe, PM me and I will send you details of where to send the cheque, or direct credit. Thank you all for your kind words. How about you all send an article too? I have none now for the February issue

Welcome Grizzly. Tell your fish to slow down for the photograph! :lol:

Yes guppy fry could eat them. They are teeny weeny tiny tiny fish. Very hard to see when first born.

General rule of thumb is to feed enough the fish can eat within 5 minutes. Look at the fish. Think how small it is. Think how much smaller its stomach is. Better to feed small amounts often than larger amounts less often. I don't even feed my community fish every day. They only get fed abuot 3 times a week, if that. The bigger African cichlids get fed once a day.

One of our members has a small tank with a ugf. It is about 400mm x 200m x 200mm and it full of wcmm breeding happily.

5.7L isn't a tank, it isn't even a full bucket!! Females are fatter. Males are slimmer, brighter coloured and larger anal and dorsal fins. 3 should be OK but if they have fry you will have to get something more spacious.

Found this on The Tropical Tank site... Columnaris (mouth rot, mouth fungus, 'flex') Symptoms Early signs of this disease are greyish-white marks or patches around the mouth, or on the body or fins of the fish. These may appear thread-like, particularly around the mouth, giving rise to the incorrect name of 'mouth fungus'. Fins will deteriorate and sores may appear on the body. The gills may be affected, giving rise to bacterial gill disease. It may cause 'shimmying' behaviour in fishes like livebearers. Causes The disease is caused by the bacteria Flavobacterium colmnare, formerly known as Flexibacter columnaris. It has been refered to as 'mouth fungus' (even though the cause is bacterial), due to the whitish strands which may appear fungus-like. These are Gram-negative, rod shaped bacteria, which move by gliding across a surface. As with many bacterial diseases, poor water quality is a major factor in triggering the disease. Sudden changes in conditions may also trigger it, and the disease is common in newly imported fish. Possible cures Anti-bacterial medications should cure this disease if used promptly. At later stages, the bacteria may invade internal organs, in which case only antibiotics may be effective. Several strains exist which vary in their virulence (how 'aggressively' they cause disease)..

A gourami that goes to the surface and blows bubbles is trying to build a bubble nest, not sick.

I have spare moss

I'm not sure Melafix is the right thing. You need to use a fungus remedy.

Corydoras adolfoi Baensch Aquarium Atlas 3 ISBN 1-56465-185-1 page 328 Corydoras panda Baensch Aquarium Atlas 2 ISBN 1-56465-114-2 page 474 What sort of trilineatus do you mean?

You need to befriend an Australian then and get them to post stuff over.