Morcs

Looking good, check out the CoralBox M1, i just got one, seems like a great unit for the price, think it was around $300 and fits the aquanano nicely

Whats the evaporation like? The optional lid might be a good investment.

Time for a decent update with pics! Coralbox M1-30 arrived today. Got in set on lower settings to acclimatise corals. 9 different timer settings so got it ramping up and down including some night time lighting. Have no idea what the different season timings and settings do, might email eric at fishstreet and ask. Apologies for the average pictures! the colours dont show very well in them. Livestock currently: Pair occerlaris clowns Coral banded shrimp Hairy mushroom Frogspawn Neon candy cane Blue Cespitularia Xenia Zoanthids assorted palys

What are your channel settings on the coralbox? And have you figured out what differs the season settings from each other?

Awesome!

+1, as scrubbing rock is better, it will most likely release more phosphates so best to cure if doing this. All depends on how clean the rock looks, a bit of die off once its in the tank is beneficial for the cycle as provides a food source for the bacteria.

50% per week keeps so many problems at bay! Especially when fully stocked, and freshwater is free

Please do!

L1 600 Sounds you on the right track with the tank, even a fist sized piece of live rock will help. I took out a bag of live rock rubble from mine last week, shoulda said earlier, i wouldve given it to ya! Its all dry now

It will get sunlight for a few hours if I open the drapes near it, corals open when only getting ambient light, if they stress too much will get a cheap desk lamp on it

Going through another diatom bloom as a siphoned my sand bed a bit too vigorously last week After the weekend will have no lights until my Coral Box M1-30 arrives from fish street At least everything is filling out a bit better and Corraline starting to appear everywhere Will do pic updates when i have both the new skimmer and light running!

Great choice of tank! They have been quite popular on here in recent times. Check out my thread for some info. I tried to be detailed and mention the little things! http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=66356 Im a fellow gsxr pilot too

Got a scare the other day. Came home to find what i thought was my coral banded shrimp eaten by my powerhead... Luckily it was just its first molt :0 Also anyone able to ID this starfish?

Hasnt turned up yet! :facepalm: Just sold both my light units and only ordered a new one last weekend :facepalm: . Lots of :facepalm: :facepalm:

I know! only 3rd unit since its been setup as SW. When it was FW i trialled 2 beamswork LED units before that. funnily enough ive been happy enough with the results of each light too. I like gadgets But at least someone can buy my barely used stuff cheaper

I had a 620T and i would always run the water level high enough that you cannot see it (so the top rim hides it) Never had any noise

what do you think of the coral box M1? I just ordered the smallest one

Which likely means lighting is probably not quite right or lack of co2. Its all about limiting factor.as soon as one exists then plants can't consume everything leaving something (light, co2 or nutrients) left over for algae to get a foothold.

And otos will munch diatoms all day long Obviously you can't not do water changes, so have to look at other factors. I would do 50% on my planted tanks regardless as the benefits do outwiegh any cons with tap water. I suggest giving this a go- do a 50% water change, give everything a good siphon and clean, especially the algae.Stop dosing any plant products like flourish, decrease photo periods by maybe 2hrs, and feed lightly. After a week I'd say you would see an improvement,

Diatoms feed off silicates until they are exhausted. Water changes using tap water replenish them. Same goes for phosphates - food introduces them as well. Only other way to keep on top of it is by it being out competed by plants - but then conditions have to be more favourable to the plants rather than the algae - right balance of co2, nutrients etc... Don't worry about testing nitrates, they are only a potential problem when over 40ppm and even then won't have any adverse affects. It takes a lot of neglect, overfeeding and lack of maintenance to get them high enough.

A phosphate/silicate remover might help with the brown algae. or use RO water

buy a spare impellor and cut 1mm off the end of each blade and see how it is

What are you looking to grow? Stock light will grow softies. Im using a finnex unit which is 56W but has 90 diodes with 120 Degree lenses, but that means each LED is low power, but works great and im growing softies quickly, and some LPS growth too. With units that use 3W cree leds for example, but only a few of them, you have to ensure the power is correct for the height you have to have it to ensure you cant see 'beams' and get shadows. This is where lenses can be important too. A PAR38 generally has a wider spread of light than a PAR30, too much i reckon for a pico. a PAR30 suspended 6''-10'' should work and thats the way i would go if i wanted to stock more than soft corals.

A hundy for build and clamp is good! So long as they aren't on selling then Chinese ones

Yeah and you wouldn't want to feed them heavily in a tank this small!